Tuesday, May 31, 2011

My 75' ford will not start, I think the distributor might be bad how can I be sure?

I have a charged battery, I just changed the ignition module and I seem to be getting fire through the coil wire, but none to the plugs, so I am tring to find why.My 75' ford will not start, I think the distributor might be bad how can I be sure?
Did you check the alternator?My 75' ford will not start, I think the distributor might be bad how can I be sure?
inspect the wires for what looks like lightning shaped marks on them. Check the ends and and clean them with a wire brush. if it is stuttering after you did all that you described then its probably the wires or the cap.
If the coil wire is showing fire ....then you need to check either rooter or may be distributor cap....
is the rotor in the distributor or the cap cracked
Could be a bad pick-up coil or even a bad distributor cap or rotor. I doubt if the distributor itself is bad, although it could be.
You could of picked up a bad ignition module. Take it back and try the new one first.
If you have spark at the coil wire and not at the plugs, you have either a bad coil wire, or a shorted rotor.



A weak coil wire will not let enough power through to get through the distributor, and a shorted rotor will send the spark through the centre of the rotor and short to the rotor mount.



I would replace the rotor and then the coil wire.

If the distributor cap is bad. you will see a black line down the side of the cap. Replace it if there are any black lines.



Good luck
check if u are getting spark to the distributor if not the coil is bad if u do check if your have spark to the first nipple thing o the distributor if not u need a new cap or hole distributor if u have spark their check the wire is spark check plug if that is all good the problem might be fuel not spark
Ford What ? American like a Maverick, Mustang, Pinto or Elite or LTD II etc?



If you have such a car with the ';electronic Ignition of the time'; I'd be checking the supply voltage to the ignition module. The ignition module runs on 6 volts and yet the car initially runs and fires on 12 volts. (thus your kind of -sort of start) In order to get the battery voltage cut in half and down to 6 volts . Ford used a resister wire and others used a ball est resistor to cut the voltage down.



Find a good service manual to identify your wire and it will probably have you take resistance and voltage readings of the resister wire by sticking a (sewing needle) needle in the wire. Ford used to offer replacement ';core wires'; but probably desn't today. They last one I was able to get from Ford was for a SHAY a 1980 Model A ford replica with modern underpinnings. (Pinto with reto model A Body. )



Modern replacement modules might be a better idea they look and function like the old ones but are designed better and eliminate the need for that resistor wire.



If you do decide to replace the resister wire its a job as it s 'lost' in the normal wiring harness and has to be ';picked out'; and it ends up inside the car on the ignition switch on the bottom of the steering column.



The Idea behind this was the low voltage in the system was great for signaling the High enery coil to work it was much better than the old point systems it replaced. You have the High energy side to the ignitation the plugs and plug wires and the low voltage side it simply is the signal for the other to operate.
get a repair guy they alway WORK! lol

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