have a 1996 chevy 10 4.3 throttle body and it has random misfires during steady driving. During idle and accelerating it oesn't miss but it doesn't do it every time while driving.The check engine light flashes every once in awhile. The first time it flashed i got it check out and it was the Mass Air Flow Sensor. So I changed it and today the same thing come up again. I have changed Plugs, cleaned throttle body, clean distributor. The only thing I haven't done is replaced the plug wires and the distributor and rotor. plz someone help me and don't say take it to a mechanic either because if i can't learn how to fix it then it doesn't matter.Misfiring issues?
Jed--
The FIRST place to look for a mis-fire is the secondary ignition. Check the plugs and the wires.
Give the cap a good look as well (but less likely than the wires and plugs)
What were the codes you retrieved? Any others besides the P0300?
There are other things that can lead to a random mis-fire. Fuel restriction. VERY rough roads can cause s false reading, especially if it is a manual trans.Misfiring issues?
Try to put some fuel cleaner in the system, sounds like one of the injectors are dirty. Clean them as best as you can, if that doesnt work call me back. :)
My 4.3 did the same thing when the thermostat was stuck open. The engine runs too cool and messes up the fuel mixture and timing.
change plug wires and cap and rotor im betting its wires or an ecm going out
You've been given suggestions on things to do. Why dont you do them, instead of coming in here asking the same question over and over?
You are over your head on this one. The shade tree days are about gone. Suck it up, take it in and get a proper diagnosis. You can throw parts and money at it all day, if you want to, but to do it right, with a logical and surgical approach, requires equipment that you ain't got.
Monday, November 22, 2010
How can we challenge the routing of 1,000 EMPTY buses down our local roads if the Council does nothing?
Transport For London ( TfL ) sponsored and paid for a major junction change in Waddon, Croydon to facilitate the construction of a 'Tramstop'. Residents and Friends of the Earth objected but Croydon over-ruled the complaints with assurances that traffic wouldn't increase. In fact, traffic has almost doubled, including huge numbers of rat-running HGV's and no less 1000 EMPTY buses a week just taking drivers to-and-from depots on their breaks. Applications under the Frredom of information Act prove that Croydon Council have consistently lied about not having comparative traffic data before the junction change, whilst simultaneously declining to do anything about the breach of Unitary Development Plan which says they will protect Local Distributor Roads from through traffic. The '93 Environmental Protection Acts specifically exclude Traffic from being determined a 'Statutory Nuisance'. What can we do?? Terry HaynesHow can we challenge the routing of 1,000 EMPTY buses down our local roads if the Council does nothing?
Hhhmm? Don't know much about metropolitan issues in the UK. Here in the United States, there exists protocol which is enforced by law. If you could examine the history of the process in which this formed, you may find something which will help you. Many cases here require a comprehensive 'Impact Study.' Sometimes too, you'll find political maneuvering to be the cause. The one thing you'll need to do is document everything. Create a class action interest or suit. Something will almost certainly hit the fan. Good luck.How can we challenge the routing of 1,000 EMPTY buses down our local roads if the Council does nothing?
This is the sort of issues that you should have raised during the recent local elections in Croydon. Having missed that publicity blitz, all I can suggest is that you contact the following departments.
Highways (Croydon)
Transport (Westminster)
and your local Asssembly Member for Croydon
i agree with harry
blah blah blah, I just want two points.
Hire Osama to do some (harmless) pyrotechnics -- but with lots of noise.
that should work
Hhhmm? Don't know much about metropolitan issues in the UK. Here in the United States, there exists protocol which is enforced by law. If you could examine the history of the process in which this formed, you may find something which will help you. Many cases here require a comprehensive 'Impact Study.' Sometimes too, you'll find political maneuvering to be the cause. The one thing you'll need to do is document everything. Create a class action interest or suit. Something will almost certainly hit the fan. Good luck.How can we challenge the routing of 1,000 EMPTY buses down our local roads if the Council does nothing?
This is the sort of issues that you should have raised during the recent local elections in Croydon. Having missed that publicity blitz, all I can suggest is that you contact the following departments.
Highways (Croydon)
Transport (Westminster)
and your local Asssembly Member for Croydon
i agree with harry
blah blah blah, I just want two points.
Hire Osama to do some (harmless) pyrotechnics -- but with lots of noise.
that should work
What possiblies make car stalled?
I have a Eclipse spyder 97 gs 5 speed none turbo, keep stalling when i drive it off the freeway and enter the small road, then it slow down then it stall. I try to start and it start for 1 or 2 second then it die.,,have to wait like 30minute then it start up again and drivable again.
Here is what it think it might cause and i planning to change if you guy agree.
1) IAC -Idle air control = maybe too many dust modd onto it.
2) MAP- Manifold air pressure = not sure how i gonna fix this.
3) Thottle body = not sure how i gonna get this clean or fix or change
4) spark plug +spark wire + distributor cab are all not good.
these are all i can think that make the car stall, even car trying to stall while running on freeway. Happen to me once.
What do u guy think.What possiblies make car stalled?
Replace your fuel filter.
check your fuel lines for leak.
Meanwhile if you want a tune up go for it. Likely there are many issues.actually make a decision curly hair styles
Here is what it think it might cause and i planning to change if you guy agree.
1) IAC -Idle air control = maybe too many dust modd onto it.
2) MAP- Manifold air pressure = not sure how i gonna fix this.
3) Thottle body = not sure how i gonna get this clean or fix or change
4) spark plug +spark wire + distributor cab are all not good.
these are all i can think that make the car stall, even car trying to stall while running on freeway. Happen to me once.
What do u guy think.What possiblies make car stalled?
Replace your fuel filter.
check your fuel lines for leak.
Meanwhile if you want a tune up go for it. Likely there are many issues.
1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ok so my crx (1990 honda crx) was throwing a code 16 and won檛 start.
Here is what I have done so far.
1. Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor rotors, and cap.
2. Replaced Battery.
3. Replaced fuel filter.
4. Replaced fuel pump.
How problem started.
Problem started about 4 months ago. The car would run find while driving but once I turn the car off, it would not start. I would try a few times and then battery would die, and I would have to jump start the car. Every time I jumped it, it would start right up.
It got to the point where the car would start, and I would drive it, and when I turned it off, it wouldn檛 start for a few days. After about a day or 2, it would start right up again and repeat same process over and over.
Fixing process.
I finally decided to tune it up a bit. I did a full oil change, replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, and fuel filter. After that, it started right up again and ran find for about a day. On the second day, the problem came back again. I noticed that when starting the car, the check engine light would come on. Now when you first turn the key to the on position, the check engine light and all the other lights come on, I know this. But it goes off. What I am saying is during the starting process the check engine light comes on again. So I looked at the ecu and it was throwing code 16, which has to do with the fuel injectors. I was told to test the injectors?resistance with an ohm meter. The primary injector should be showing between 0.6 and 1.6 ohms, and the auxiliary should be showing between 0.6 and 10 ohms. I tested them, and both seem to be good.
I finally decided to get a fuel system cleaner. I put cleaner in and got the car to start. I ran the car all day without turning it off just in case. I even took it on the free way and ran it at high speed. After that, I turned the car off, and let it sit for about 18 hours. It was about 9pm at night and it was cold so I decided it was a good time to test the car. I tried to start it and it started right up with no hesitation. I then turned it off and tried it again just to make sure, and it started right up. So I drove it for about 5 minutes and then parked it again and turned it off and tried to start it again and it started right up again with no problem. So I figured the problem was fixed. The next morning, I went to do one last test. I tried to start it and it started find again, so I took it for another drive. While I was driving the car sounded like it ran out of gas and just died. I tried over and over to start it but best I could get it to do is start and then die 2 seconds later.
I towed it home and tried to diagnose the problem again. First I checked the fuel filter and it had some dirt in it so I washed it out with gas. I put it back on and tried to start the car and still no luck. I took it off again and noticed there was no fuel going to the car anymore. I noticed I couldn檛 hear the fuel pump either so I replaced the fuel pump. I turned the keys to the on position and waited a few minutes then checked the fuel line again to see if it had fuel in it and it had plenty lol. But I still can檛 get car to start. So now I am back here again looking for help to see what could be the problem. I am still getting code 16 on my euc. What i was thinking is to replace the injectors one at a time to see which one was causing the problem. If anyone has any other ideas, Please let me know i am stuck lol.1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ignition module is more than likely faulty. Common problem on 90s hondas. Located under the cap inside the distributor.
Here is what I have done so far.
1. Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor rotors, and cap.
2. Replaced Battery.
3. Replaced fuel filter.
4. Replaced fuel pump.
How problem started.
Problem started about 4 months ago. The car would run find while driving but once I turn the car off, it would not start. I would try a few times and then battery would die, and I would have to jump start the car. Every time I jumped it, it would start right up.
It got to the point where the car would start, and I would drive it, and when I turned it off, it wouldn檛 start for a few days. After about a day or 2, it would start right up again and repeat same process over and over.
Fixing process.
I finally decided to tune it up a bit. I did a full oil change, replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, and fuel filter. After that, it started right up again and ran find for about a day. On the second day, the problem came back again. I noticed that when starting the car, the check engine light would come on. Now when you first turn the key to the on position, the check engine light and all the other lights come on, I know this. But it goes off. What I am saying is during the starting process the check engine light comes on again. So I looked at the ecu and it was throwing code 16, which has to do with the fuel injectors. I was told to test the injectors?resistance with an ohm meter. The primary injector should be showing between 0.6 and 1.6 ohms, and the auxiliary should be showing between 0.6 and 10 ohms. I tested them, and both seem to be good.
I finally decided to get a fuel system cleaner. I put cleaner in and got the car to start. I ran the car all day without turning it off just in case. I even took it on the free way and ran it at high speed. After that, I turned the car off, and let it sit for about 18 hours. It was about 9pm at night and it was cold so I decided it was a good time to test the car. I tried to start it and it started right up with no hesitation. I then turned it off and tried it again just to make sure, and it started right up. So I drove it for about 5 minutes and then parked it again and turned it off and tried to start it again and it started right up again with no problem. So I figured the problem was fixed. The next morning, I went to do one last test. I tried to start it and it started find again, so I took it for another drive. While I was driving the car sounded like it ran out of gas and just died. I tried over and over to start it but best I could get it to do is start and then die 2 seconds later.
I towed it home and tried to diagnose the problem again. First I checked the fuel filter and it had some dirt in it so I washed it out with gas. I put it back on and tried to start the car and still no luck. I took it off again and noticed there was no fuel going to the car anymore. I noticed I couldn檛 hear the fuel pump either so I replaced the fuel pump. I turned the keys to the on position and waited a few minutes then checked the fuel line again to see if it had fuel in it and it had plenty lol. But I still can檛 get car to start. So now I am back here again looking for help to see what could be the problem. I am still getting code 16 on my euc. What i was thinking is to replace the injectors one at a time to see which one was causing the problem. If anyone has any other ideas, Please let me know i am stuck lol.1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ignition module is more than likely faulty. Common problem on 90s hondas. Located under the cap inside the distributor.
Car dies randomly at red lights?
I have a 67 impala and just got a tune up (changed air filter and spark plugs myself) and got a well respected mechanic to change the starter, change the spark plug wires and distributor caps and also gave it a tune up (fixed the timing and adjusted the carburetor). Now when I drive it, it will sometimes die on me at red lights waiting for it to turn green and when I start it back up it will have a ';grrr'; sound when I turn the key (only sometimes).
What can this be and how can I fix this?Car dies randomly at red lights?
Have you check your fuel system. Your fuel pump may not working fine or the fuel filter is clogging with dirt already. You might have also faulty fuel pump relay. If the relay are not working fine, the fuel pump will not work fine also causing poor distribution of fuel to the carburator. Have this check by your respected mechanic. He might neglect this part. Hope this helps!Car dies randomly at red lights?
Probably just need to set the idle up a bit, or adjust the idle mixture. If you are running air conditioning, that specific idle speed, which is higher than when the air is off to make up for the drag created by the compressor, may need to be increased. Modern cars have sensors on the engine and maintain idle with electronics and small stepper motors. Your 67 has only mechanical devices to keep the idle where it needs to be.
What can this be and how can I fix this?Car dies randomly at red lights?
Have you check your fuel system. Your fuel pump may not working fine or the fuel filter is clogging with dirt already. You might have also faulty fuel pump relay. If the relay are not working fine, the fuel pump will not work fine also causing poor distribution of fuel to the carburator. Have this check by your respected mechanic. He might neglect this part. Hope this helps!Car dies randomly at red lights?
Probably just need to set the idle up a bit, or adjust the idle mixture. If you are running air conditioning, that specific idle speed, which is higher than when the air is off to make up for the drag created by the compressor, may need to be increased. Modern cars have sensors on the engine and maintain idle with electronics and small stepper motors. Your 67 has only mechanical devices to keep the idle where it needs to be.
Ford taurus Distributor cap?
I have a 2000 ford Taurus my check engine light is on. I got it diagnosed they said I have a cylinder misfire. They said check my distributor cap. I called auto zone to see how much a distributor cap costs and they said my car doesn檛 have one. If I don檛 have a distributor cap what do I have? and how to I fix a cylinder misfire? I have already got my wires and plugs checked and changed.Ford taurus Distributor cap?
If you are sure that all the plugs are good, and that the wires are ok and properly seated, then it may be that the coil/s have gone out, or have a busted tower on one or more of them.
Now the 3.0 DOHC has six such coils sold each, in which case replace the one that has the misfire.
(http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.
The 3.0 OHC engine has one, and the complete unit will have to be replaced.
(http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.Ford taurus Distributor cap?
';2000 Ford Taurus'; Distributor / Ignition
http://autos.aol.com/cars-Ford-Taurus-20
BondysTaurus's 2000 Ford Taurus
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3809753
This image shows the spark plugs ';wires'; going to ';distributor';
That distributor is not old rotary type, but you could check wires and connections,
if able with tools, remove plug caps and check inside,
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_imag
1996-2000 Ford Taurus Ignition Coil for Models with V6 3.0L
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/IgnitionCoil/Fo
HOME%26gt;PARTS%26gt;IGNITION (TUNE UP)
Coil - Ignition
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2000-ford-
Taurus user guide pdf ~save as
http://www.autodealertools.com/quickQuot
1989 Ford Taurus 3.0 Liter Profile Ignition Pickup ( 89 appears to have rotor)
http://autorepair.about.com/library/imag
..
Cars dont use a dist. any more.. it has coils usually 2 for a 4 cyl. or 3 for a v-6, just follopw your plug wires off the plugs and down to the engine block, the coil pack is there, and each one has 2 screws and it just plugs in, you can test them w/ a ohm meter,
It has a coil pack not a distributor. Run a can of Sea Foam through the gas to clean the fuel injectors and the problem should go away as long as there is no problem with the plugs and wires. Hope I have been helpful.
you don,t have a distributor in that car.you have a coil pack. you could have a bad plug wire or 1 of the towers on the coil pack could be corroded or bad.
If you are sure that all the plugs are good, and that the wires are ok and properly seated, then it may be that the coil/s have gone out, or have a busted tower on one or more of them.
Now the 3.0 DOHC has six such coils sold each, in which case replace the one that has the misfire.
(http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.
The 3.0 OHC engine has one, and the complete unit will have to be replaced.
(http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.Ford taurus Distributor cap?
';2000 Ford Taurus'; Distributor / Ignition
http://autos.aol.com/cars-Ford-Taurus-20
BondysTaurus's 2000 Ford Taurus
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3809753
This image shows the spark plugs ';wires'; going to ';distributor';
That distributor is not old rotary type, but you could check wires and connections,
if able with tools, remove plug caps and check inside,
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_imag
1996-2000 Ford Taurus Ignition Coil for Models with V6 3.0L
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/IgnitionCoil/Fo
HOME%26gt;PARTS%26gt;IGNITION (TUNE UP)
Coil - Ignition
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2000-ford-
Taurus user guide pdf ~save as
http://www.autodealertools.com/quickQuot
1989 Ford Taurus 3.0 Liter Profile Ignition Pickup ( 89 appears to have rotor)
http://autorepair.about.com/library/imag
..
Cars dont use a dist. any more.. it has coils usually 2 for a 4 cyl. or 3 for a v-6, just follopw your plug wires off the plugs and down to the engine block, the coil pack is there, and each one has 2 screws and it just plugs in, you can test them w/ a ohm meter,
It has a coil pack not a distributor. Run a can of Sea Foam through the gas to clean the fuel injectors and the problem should go away as long as there is no problem with the plugs and wires. Hope I have been helpful.
you don,t have a distributor in that car.you have a coil pack. you could have a bad plug wire or 1 of the towers on the coil pack could be corroded or bad.
1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
i had a friend change my spark plugs and wires some how he didn't remember wire the wires went on the new distributor cap is it anyway to find out or does anyone know we have the firing order but don't know were the go on the distributor please help.1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2
Driver side front to rear is # 1 3 5 7
Pass side front to rear is # 2 4 6 8
Rotor/firing order goes clockwise
Remove #1 plug, put finger over hole, have buddy to bump the key so starter turns engine a tad. When you feel air blowing on your finger stop (up stroke should blow and down stroke should suck)
Now using a 5/8'; socket and a pull bar, put socket on center lower pulley/damper bolt and ';tighten'; the bolt that will turn engine over
Turn like that till your line on damper matchs up with the 0 or TDC mark on tab.
Now pull dizzy cap off.
What ever post the tip of rotor button points to is your #1
Put #1 plug back in, mark with marker or paint ';1'; on the dizzy cap in right place
Put rest of the wires on in order of 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise around cap1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
rotate the engine until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center of the compression stroke (both valves closed and 0 degrees on the timing plate) locate the post the rotor is pointing at. That is where the #1 plug wire goes, continue with the firing order around the cap in the direction of the rotor rotation.
Bring your timing mark on the fly wheel to TDC
Take out the number one plug and make sure the piston is at the top on the compression stroke. You can hold your thumb over the spark plug hole when aligning the timing mark to see if pressure is forces past your thumb to be sure you are on the compression stroke.
Take off the distributor cap. The rotor will be pointing at the number one position on the cap. Follow the firing order to finish. You can figure out which direction the rotor turns by having some one tap the ignition with the cap off and watching which way the rotor turns.
The manifold will have the cylinders marked so you know which cylinder is which. The distributor cap should have number 1 embossed on the cap. Now look at the engine at the cylinder banks. One bank will be slightly more towards the front of the car. The front cylinder on that bank will be number 1. This is true of all V engines because of the way the pistons have to be arranged to fit opposite each other. All you have to do then is follow the firing order clockwise on the distributor cap.
firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2
Driver side front to rear is # 1 3 5 7
Pass side front to rear is # 2 4 6 8
Rotor/firing order goes clockwise
Remove #1 plug, put finger over hole, have buddy to bump the key so starter turns engine a tad. When you feel air blowing on your finger stop (up stroke should blow and down stroke should suck)
Now using a 5/8'; socket and a pull bar, put socket on center lower pulley/damper bolt and ';tighten'; the bolt that will turn engine over
Turn like that till your line on damper matchs up with the 0 or TDC mark on tab.
Now pull dizzy cap off.
What ever post the tip of rotor button points to is your #1
Put #1 plug back in, mark with marker or paint ';1'; on the dizzy cap in right place
Put rest of the wires on in order of 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise around cap1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
rotate the engine until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center of the compression stroke (both valves closed and 0 degrees on the timing plate) locate the post the rotor is pointing at. That is where the #1 plug wire goes, continue with the firing order around the cap in the direction of the rotor rotation.
Bring your timing mark on the fly wheel to TDC
Take out the number one plug and make sure the piston is at the top on the compression stroke. You can hold your thumb over the spark plug hole when aligning the timing mark to see if pressure is forces past your thumb to be sure you are on the compression stroke.
Take off the distributor cap. The rotor will be pointing at the number one position on the cap. Follow the firing order to finish. You can figure out which direction the rotor turns by having some one tap the ignition with the cap off and watching which way the rotor turns.
The manifold will have the cylinders marked so you know which cylinder is which. The distributor cap should have number 1 embossed on the cap. Now look at the engine at the cylinder banks. One bank will be slightly more towards the front of the car. The front cylinder on that bank will be number 1. This is true of all V engines because of the way the pistons have to be arranged to fit opposite each other. All you have to do then is follow the firing order clockwise on the distributor cap.
Can a large company lower wages without changing the job description?
The largest soft drink distributor I work for ( over 10 yrs) has recently re-structured posistions in the sales area and made everyone in their current posistions ';re-interview'; for the job, giving it a slightly different title, and minor description changes. Many will lose their jobs, and the rest will suffer loss in wages. Now , it may trickle down to the actual delivery area which SEEMS to cut and dry to do the same thing. How can they get away with it, and where do we stand if they try?Can a large company lower wages without changing the job description?
yes they can thanks to the us goverment and cheaper labor pretty soon mexicans will be doing youre job for less money and no benifits so get mad now instead of after. there will be nothing you can do. even voteing will not help the goverment is always for the big companys. take this example smithfield ham in smithfield virginia you must speak spanish to be in charge there of any workers. and yes it is because the goverment lets it happen they wont shut them down they give money to a senator here and there they are ok . come around election time they bust a few places to show they dont what the illeagals here but after all the same..i only hope you have a job in 2 more years ..Can a large company lower wages without changing the job description?
Legally employee wages can fluctuate like gas prices unless you have a contract .
Work is business and business is about contracts .
What do your contracts say about wages ?
And when do they expire ?
%26gt;receiving serious threats tdugaming troubles pc
yes they can thanks to the us goverment and cheaper labor pretty soon mexicans will be doing youre job for less money and no benifits so get mad now instead of after. there will be nothing you can do. even voteing will not help the goverment is always for the big companys. take this example smithfield ham in smithfield virginia you must speak spanish to be in charge there of any workers. and yes it is because the goverment lets it happen they wont shut them down they give money to a senator here and there they are ok . come around election time they bust a few places to show they dont what the illeagals here but after all the same..i only hope you have a job in 2 more years ..Can a large company lower wages without changing the job description?
Legally employee wages can fluctuate like gas prices unless you have a contract .
Work is business and business is about contracts .
What do your contracts say about wages ?
And when do they expire ?
%26gt;
I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
just about how much should i pay to do a tune up. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, oil change, air filter, fuel filter,please help me out I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
You should do most of it. It's very easy and kind of hard to screw it up.
Air Filter: Remove the cover, lift old filter right up, lay the new filter down, Replace the cover. (By far the easiest)
Oil change: Lift front of car with jack and use jack stands for the love of god. Slightly Loosen drain plug with a ratchet. (the screw at the bottom of the engine drain pan. Its by itself and hard to miss). Place a container to drain the oil into under the plug before completely removing the drain plug. The oil will run right out. Then unscrew the oil filter by hand. Use some of the new oil to coat the rubber part of the top of the new oil filter and screw it on by hand. When the oil is done draining screw the plug back in and fill the engine with new oil.
(This is also very easy to do. And you wont have any of those horror stories about people who were screwed by the shop and drove off with no oil in their cars.)
Plug Wires: (Extremely easy) Most people do them at the same time as the spark plugs but if you feel nervous about it you can do the wires first. Pull the distributor end of one wire. Then carefully follow the wire to its Plug and remove that end. Find the new Wire that matches the length of the old one and connect it to the plug and distributor. BE sure to route it the same way and only do one at a time to avoid confusion. Repeat for all wires.
Spark Plugs (Medium): Make sure they are all gapped correctly and apply boot grease to the tops (non threaded ends) of each plug. You can ask someone at the parts store to help you with this. Pull the boot off a plug. Use your ratchet with an extension if necessary to remove the old plug. Insert the new plug and tighten with ratchet. Replace boot. Do this for every plug. Make sure you have a magnet on hand just in case you cant pull a plug out after unscrewing it.
As for the distributor cap and rotor and the fuel filter, You might need the shop to do that for you. But in the end you would save a ton of money by doing the simple stuff yourself.I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
Book time shouldn't be more than a hour and a half... Plus the cost of parts.
Calculating this is basically, labor rate times a hour and a half plus the cost of parts... And what kind of parts. New or old car, I almost always suggest OEM. Motorcraft are easy to get at any Murrays, Advance Auto etc.
Good luck.
You should do most of it. It's very easy and kind of hard to screw it up.
Air Filter: Remove the cover, lift old filter right up, lay the new filter down, Replace the cover. (By far the easiest)
Oil change: Lift front of car with jack and use jack stands for the love of god. Slightly Loosen drain plug with a ratchet. (the screw at the bottom of the engine drain pan. Its by itself and hard to miss). Place a container to drain the oil into under the plug before completely removing the drain plug. The oil will run right out. Then unscrew the oil filter by hand. Use some of the new oil to coat the rubber part of the top of the new oil filter and screw it on by hand. When the oil is done draining screw the plug back in and fill the engine with new oil.
(This is also very easy to do. And you wont have any of those horror stories about people who were screwed by the shop and drove off with no oil in their cars.)
Plug Wires: (Extremely easy) Most people do them at the same time as the spark plugs but if you feel nervous about it you can do the wires first. Pull the distributor end of one wire. Then carefully follow the wire to its Plug and remove that end. Find the new Wire that matches the length of the old one and connect it to the plug and distributor. BE sure to route it the same way and only do one at a time to avoid confusion. Repeat for all wires.
Spark Plugs (Medium): Make sure they are all gapped correctly and apply boot grease to the tops (non threaded ends) of each plug. You can ask someone at the parts store to help you with this. Pull the boot off a plug. Use your ratchet with an extension if necessary to remove the old plug. Insert the new plug and tighten with ratchet. Replace boot. Do this for every plug. Make sure you have a magnet on hand just in case you cant pull a plug out after unscrewing it.
As for the distributor cap and rotor and the fuel filter, You might need the shop to do that for you. But in the end you would save a ton of money by doing the simple stuff yourself.I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
Book time shouldn't be more than a hour and a half... Plus the cost of parts.
Calculating this is basically, labor rate times a hour and a half plus the cost of parts... And what kind of parts. New or old car, I almost always suggest OEM. Motorcraft are easy to get at any Murrays, Advance Auto etc.
Good luck.
How to change ’82 Chevy 350 engine w/an auto trans to manual 4 speed trans in my ’71 Chevy C10 250 engine PU?
My 1971 Chevy C10 [bought in '81] Pickup [shortbed/fleetside] 250 Engine, 3/4 ton Transmission + ';Four on the Floor'; [compound low] + Positraction %26gt;
For the past 20 years it had a “Rear Seal Leak” %26gt; So it ';Guzzled'; a quart or more of ';Fresh Oil'; every couple of weeks %26gt; The “Capacity of Oil Consumption” [depended on work load/terrain] %26gt; After Going Strong and Long with 567,000 ';Miracle Miles'; %26gt; It ';Gave up the Ghost'; %26gt; Out on the 101 Freeway last month %26gt; Pistons ';Shot Thru the Pan'; [in four places] %26gt; There is a ';Hole in the Block'; [8” across] Crankshaft went Humpty Dumpty %26gt; “All the Kings Horses and All the Kings Men…. Ain’t Putting That Engine Back Together Again…!!!] %26gt;
Just to ';Get Back On the Road'; %26gt; I am “Monkey In the Middle Moving” %26gt; I’ve been in the same place for a 1/4 Century %26gt; I got a “Pack Rat Scavenger Salvage Mountain to Move” %26gt; I “Have to Have” my Truck “Star Traveler” for my “Spaced Oddessy Stranger In a New Land Adventure” !!! %26gt;
So I looked [w/no luck] for another 250 engine %26gt; instead I found a 1982 Chevy C10 with a “Running” [in the truck] ';Complete'; 350 swb engine [rebuilt 4,000 miles ago] with mostly ';All New” engine components [carburetor, distributor, starter etc] for $250.00 that I could not pass up !!!
My truck has a ';Manual'; 4 speed transmission and the %26gt; 1982 C10’s %26gt; 350 engine had an automatic transmission %26gt; Thus I need some advice on ';How to make the Change'; %26gt; I have been doing some research %26gt; So I learned that I could use the 10'; clutch [that was in my truck] but instead %26gt; I'm getting a great deal on a “Practically New” 12 inch Flywheel + Pressure Plate + Clutch for $100.00 !!!
What I really need to know is…… ';What Else Do I Need %26gt; To Do'; ? %26gt; I read something about a Pilot Bushing [on a Corvette Forum] but I am not quite sure what they were talking about….?
I have always “Worked”%26gt; On all my vehicles since I was a 19 yrs old [I am now 56] %26gt; Getting technical/mechanical “How To” Help/Direction from Master Mechanics/Gearheads friends %26gt;
I‘ve saved myself lots of money [I did not have] being a ‘Parts Changer’ but because I have a “Long Term Memory Disorder/Disability” [result of a Car Crash/Brain Injury when I was 3 years old] %26gt; I never advanced to being a ‘Full On’ Mechanic %26gt; Because I can’t remember “How To” %26gt; Until I get reminded by doing them again later [short term memory okay] %26gt;] I use manuals and notes and “A Little Help from My Friends” %26gt; So I get by……
I’ve done all your “Basic Mechanic Tasks” [Brakes, Replaced Parts etc..including engine and transmissions %26gt; thou auto electric is not my forte %26gt; beyond simple shorts etc..] PLUS Auto Body [being an Outsider Artist [all mediums] %26gt; I am pretty good at that]
I’ve never changed a “Transmission From Automatic to Manual or the Reverse”
So Any and All %26gt; “Word Up/Up Word” Advice/Help Will Be Much Appreciated w/Thanks !!!
Lichen I aka Grease Runner
awakingdream@sbcglobal.netHow to change ’82 Chevy 350 engine w/an auto trans to manual 4 speed trans in my ’71 Chevy C10 250 engine PU?
The pilot bushing is pressed into the back of the crank and supports the transmission input shaft. Double check the rear of the crank to make sure it will accept a pilot bushing, not all small block cranks were machined for it. If it is machined for it, it will be about 3/4'; in diameter and about 3/4'; deep. If not, you might want to think about switching to an automatic transmission. Hope this helps. Christopher
For the past 20 years it had a “Rear Seal Leak” %26gt; So it ';Guzzled'; a quart or more of ';Fresh Oil'; every couple of weeks %26gt; The “Capacity of Oil Consumption” [depended on work load/terrain] %26gt; After Going Strong and Long with 567,000 ';Miracle Miles'; %26gt; It ';Gave up the Ghost'; %26gt; Out on the 101 Freeway last month %26gt; Pistons ';Shot Thru the Pan'; [in four places] %26gt; There is a ';Hole in the Block'; [8” across] Crankshaft went Humpty Dumpty %26gt; “All the Kings Horses and All the Kings Men…. Ain’t Putting That Engine Back Together Again…!!!] %26gt;
Just to ';Get Back On the Road'; %26gt; I am “Monkey In the Middle Moving” %26gt; I’ve been in the same place for a 1/4 Century %26gt; I got a “Pack Rat Scavenger Salvage Mountain to Move” %26gt; I “Have to Have” my Truck “Star Traveler” for my “Spaced Oddessy Stranger In a New Land Adventure” !!! %26gt;
So I looked [w/no luck] for another 250 engine %26gt; instead I found a 1982 Chevy C10 with a “Running” [in the truck] ';Complete'; 350 swb engine [rebuilt 4,000 miles ago] with mostly ';All New” engine components [carburetor, distributor, starter etc] for $250.00 that I could not pass up !!!
My truck has a ';Manual'; 4 speed transmission and the %26gt; 1982 C10’s %26gt; 350 engine had an automatic transmission %26gt; Thus I need some advice on ';How to make the Change'; %26gt; I have been doing some research %26gt; So I learned that I could use the 10'; clutch [that was in my truck] but instead %26gt; I'm getting a great deal on a “Practically New” 12 inch Flywheel + Pressure Plate + Clutch for $100.00 !!!
What I really need to know is…… ';What Else Do I Need %26gt; To Do'; ? %26gt; I read something about a Pilot Bushing [on a Corvette Forum] but I am not quite sure what they were talking about….?
I have always “Worked”%26gt; On all my vehicles since I was a 19 yrs old [I am now 56] %26gt; Getting technical/mechanical “How To” Help/Direction from Master Mechanics/Gearheads friends %26gt;
I‘ve saved myself lots of money [I did not have] being a ‘Parts Changer’ but because I have a “Long Term Memory Disorder/Disability” [result of a Car Crash/Brain Injury when I was 3 years old] %26gt; I never advanced to being a ‘Full On’ Mechanic %26gt; Because I can’t remember “How To” %26gt; Until I get reminded by doing them again later [short term memory okay] %26gt;] I use manuals and notes and “A Little Help from My Friends” %26gt; So I get by……
I’ve done all your “Basic Mechanic Tasks” [Brakes, Replaced Parts etc..including engine and transmissions %26gt; thou auto electric is not my forte %26gt; beyond simple shorts etc..] PLUS Auto Body [being an Outsider Artist [all mediums] %26gt; I am pretty good at that]
I’ve never changed a “Transmission From Automatic to Manual or the Reverse”
So Any and All %26gt; “Word Up/Up Word” Advice/Help Will Be Much Appreciated w/Thanks !!!
Lichen I aka Grease Runner
awakingdream@sbcglobal.netHow to change ’82 Chevy 350 engine w/an auto trans to manual 4 speed trans in my ’71 Chevy C10 250 engine PU?
The pilot bushing is pressed into the back of the crank and supports the transmission input shaft. Double check the rear of the crank to make sure it will accept a pilot bushing, not all small block cranks were machined for it. If it is machined for it, it will be about 3/4'; in diameter and about 3/4'; deep. If not, you might want to think about switching to an automatic transmission. Hope this helps. Christopher
How URGENT is this?? 1996 Honda Accord with A LOT of oil around my spark plugs?
I took my 1996, Honda Accord LX (115,000 miles) into the local Honda dealership for a regular oil change when they advised me to get my Splark Plug Tube Seals and my Distributor O-Ring replaced completely because there was A LOT of oil around my spark plugs. They showed it to me and when they pulled them out they were dripping a lot of oil. They said it was defintely not a good thing at all and it needed to be fixed within a few days or it would ruin my car. IS IT THAT URGENT???? I have someone who can replace them for a fourth of the cost but not until this weekend. I just need to know if this situation needs to be treated immediately!How URGENT is this?? 1996 Honda Accord with A LOT of oil around my spark plugs?
that could be your valve cover gasket if it's dripping on the outside of the plug. If it's on the plug arrestor, your oil is blowing by the rings, but if it was doing that it would run rough.
After that many miles, get the valve cover gasket replaced and think about a head gasket, too.How URGENT is this?? 1996 Honda Accord with A LOT of oil around my spark plugs?
if you have oil around your spark plugs,you have bad piston rings.Needs an overhaul..unfixed will lead to major mechanical problems.will prob last till weekend,just depends how bad it is..
Four days won't be that bad, if it has been running this long with it bad, then I would figure that you can squeek another few days out of it. good luck.
It is urgent - when spark plugs wires get soaked it may not start. But what's a big deal - valve cover gasket with spark plug tube seals should not cost you more that $150 unless it's a V6. If they want more - it's an armed robbery, go somewhere else.
I don't understand what distributor seal has to do with this - it can either leak externally or into the distributor but no way into spark plug tubes.
you can wait until the weekend. i would try not to drive it excessively. and check the oil level consistantly. dont wait longer than that though
Just hope your oil rings last that long
Never urgent to the point that not driveable,since you don't have a misfired yet (engine shakes and loose power,and check engine light flashing)
Just replace valve cover gasket set (comes with spark plug tube seals and O rings under rocker arm carriers)and you'll be OK for a long time.
the urgency is for their profit.
my bet is that it has been that way for many miles.
my question would be - where did it come from -
stopping the source may be more urgent.
a distributor O ring and tube seals doesn't sound like it is going to stop the oil leak.
If it's wet on the outside,then either the valve cover is leaking %26amp; dripping on the spark plug or spark plugs.If the Piston Rings are worn out then your car will smoke thru the Exhaust pipe so badly that you will not be able to drive 1/2 to A mile B4 the cops pull you over for Polluting !! and your Engine will Misfire to the point of Overheating.
that could be your valve cover gasket if it's dripping on the outside of the plug. If it's on the plug arrestor, your oil is blowing by the rings, but if it was doing that it would run rough.
After that many miles, get the valve cover gasket replaced and think about a head gasket, too.How URGENT is this?? 1996 Honda Accord with A LOT of oil around my spark plugs?
if you have oil around your spark plugs,you have bad piston rings.Needs an overhaul..unfixed will lead to major mechanical problems.will prob last till weekend,just depends how bad it is..
Four days won't be that bad, if it has been running this long with it bad, then I would figure that you can squeek another few days out of it. good luck.
It is urgent - when spark plugs wires get soaked it may not start. But what's a big deal - valve cover gasket with spark plug tube seals should not cost you more that $150 unless it's a V6. If they want more - it's an armed robbery, go somewhere else.
I don't understand what distributor seal has to do with this - it can either leak externally or into the distributor but no way into spark plug tubes.
you can wait until the weekend. i would try not to drive it excessively. and check the oil level consistantly. dont wait longer than that though
Just hope your oil rings last that long
Never urgent to the point that not driveable,since you don't have a misfired yet (engine shakes and loose power,and check engine light flashing)
Just replace valve cover gasket set (comes with spark plug tube seals and O rings under rocker arm carriers)and you'll be OK for a long time.
the urgency is for their profit.
my bet is that it has been that way for many miles.
my question would be - where did it come from -
stopping the source may be more urgent.
a distributor O ring and tube seals doesn't sound like it is going to stop the oil leak.
If it's wet on the outside,then either the valve cover is leaking %26amp; dripping on the spark plug or spark plugs.If the Piston Rings are worn out then your car will smoke thru the Exhaust pipe so badly that you will not be able to drive 1/2 to A mile B4 the cops pull you over for Polluting !! and your Engine will Misfire to the point of Overheating.
Honda Accord 1986 EX 2 DR running rough and stalling. Car stalls when accelerating or starting from a stop.?
I started with a carburettor cleaner in fuel to try cleaning the carburettor. Did not work so removed the carburettor and cleaned it with brush etc as advised. Refitted it but same problems. The problem did not get worse so I think I did it OK. Then a mechanic told me to change the fuel pump. This is a carburetted car so I don't think a pump has such an active role. But I changed the pump . I have tested fuel flow by running the engine and collecting the oil in a bottle. The quantity was enough to keep it running and the engine was running on float bowl fuel at that time.
Now I think it may be an electrical problem. What should I try there? The car can be managed to be ridden for 5-6km if I keep using choke. The engine type is ET1. How to test the remaining issues? Should I change the spark leads or do I need a distributor? I have re seated the leads on plug and distribuitor side. I have also set the idle screw at around 900 rpmHonda Accord 1986 EX 2 DR running rough and stalling. Car stalls when accelerating or starting from a stop.?
Definitely sounds like a carburetor problem. Probably a bad accelr8r pump. With the car off look down the carb throat and roll the throttle open. It should shoot out a SOLID STREAM of gas from the moment the throttle is moved. Anything less than that is causing a problem.Honda Accord 1986 EX 2 DR running rough and stalling. Car stalls when accelerating or starting from a stop.?
vacuum hose or bad catalytic converterWhat color bed sheets would look best 1 web hosting
Now I think it may be an electrical problem. What should I try there? The car can be managed to be ridden for 5-6km if I keep using choke. The engine type is ET1. How to test the remaining issues? Should I change the spark leads or do I need a distributor? I have re seated the leads on plug and distribuitor side. I have also set the idle screw at around 900 rpmHonda Accord 1986 EX 2 DR running rough and stalling. Car stalls when accelerating or starting from a stop.?
Definitely sounds like a carburetor problem. Probably a bad accelr8r pump. With the car off look down the carb throat and roll the throttle open. It should shoot out a SOLID STREAM of gas from the moment the throttle is moved. Anything less than that is causing a problem.Honda Accord 1986 EX 2 DR running rough and stalling. Car stalls when accelerating or starting from a stop.?
vacuum hose or bad catalytic converter
Help with Falcon AU XR6 spark leads?
How in the hell are you supposed to change the leads over when the distributor is burried amongst a bunch of cabling, pipes and metal. neeeeed help asapHelp with Falcon AU XR6 spark leads?
LoL....
Thats what we get paid for .....
Man........My best ( and least expensive ) advice to you is leave it alone until you by a service manual and do some reading up first.
LoL....
Thats what we get paid for .....
Man........My best ( and least expensive ) advice to you is leave it alone until you by a service manual and do some reading up first.
Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Hi, please help!
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
IF YOU WANT THE BOLT BACK LIKE THE ORIGINAL, YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT AGAIN AND ALIGN THE NOTCHES OR TIMING MARK. IT WAS NOT ALIGN. AFTER THAT ,YOU NEED A TIMING LIGHT TO ADJUST THE IGNITION TIMING IN ORDER TO GAIN THE HORSEPOWER BACK.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Could be the timing belt is off a tooth or two, and the distributor had to be offset in order for the engine to run. If you are sure about the distributor position before the belt replacement, I would have reason to question proper belt replacement.
You need a diagram to check the timing belt. Look it up at the link I provide.
The timing belt effects timing, so you need to get that right first.
That will change a bit as a belt stretches with age or a new one installed, but not that much.
So the belt timing is probably off.
Not hard to change once you loosen the tensioner.
As for the distributor timing, the idea is the timing belt turns the inner shaft, so if you loosen its hold down and rotate the distributor body, it will change when the sensor in the body will pulse from the shaft lobe. With a strobe timing light inductively around spark plug wire #1, the light will flash the instant #1 gets spark. This will freeze the image of where the timing mark was at that instant. There will be a perfect timing mark, (probably around 5 degree before top dead center, on the crank pulley), and you will see it move before or after that as you rotate the distributor body. (with vacuum advance hoses disconnected if the instructions say to). Then you retighten the distributor hold down.
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
IF YOU WANT THE BOLT BACK LIKE THE ORIGINAL, YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT AGAIN AND ALIGN THE NOTCHES OR TIMING MARK. IT WAS NOT ALIGN. AFTER THAT ,YOU NEED A TIMING LIGHT TO ADJUST THE IGNITION TIMING IN ORDER TO GAIN THE HORSEPOWER BACK.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Could be the timing belt is off a tooth or two, and the distributor had to be offset in order for the engine to run. If you are sure about the distributor position before the belt replacement, I would have reason to question proper belt replacement.
You need a diagram to check the timing belt. Look it up at the link I provide.
The timing belt effects timing, so you need to get that right first.
That will change a bit as a belt stretches with age or a new one installed, but not that much.
So the belt timing is probably off.
Not hard to change once you loosen the tensioner.
As for the distributor timing, the idea is the timing belt turns the inner shaft, so if you loosen its hold down and rotate the distributor body, it will change when the sensor in the body will pulse from the shaft lobe. With a strobe timing light inductively around spark plug wire #1, the light will flash the instant #1 gets spark. This will freeze the image of where the timing mark was at that instant. There will be a perfect timing mark, (probably around 5 degree before top dead center, on the crank pulley), and you will see it move before or after that as you rotate the distributor body. (with vacuum advance hoses disconnected if the instructions say to). Then you retighten the distributor hold down.
Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Hi, please help!
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
put the bolt back to original position and try it if it dont run properly readjust and take it back to mechanic when hes open
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
put the bolt back to original position and try it if it dont run properly readjust and take it back to mechanic when hes open
Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Hi, please help!
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if he missed a tooth the car would not run, the timing could be part of the problem, if you do not know how, and do not have a timing light, there is no way to explain it to you on this forum. it is not too hard or expensive find a local shop who is willing to help and will set the timing for a quick 25 bucks, also you need to replace the distributor cap and rotor, this is part of a tune up.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if you move the distributor to the end of the slot approx 12 degrees that makes up for about one tooth off. Sorry Your picture tells the story. I would suspect a mistake was done when the timing belt was replaced. Nissan Factory Timing belts have a dotted line for the rear (right bank1)cam sprocket and two solid lines for (front bank2) cam sprocket and solid line for crank sprocket with mark at approx 7 o'clock key way pointing at bank 1 Nissan Timing belt is very hard to get wrong. To set timing we use a strobe light timing light to align the timing mark on the crank pulley turning the distributor with the motor runing. Many times poor running can be caused by a bad photo optic sensor inside the distributor. Some time you can see the rough running with a diagnostic Scope watching the Ignition wave forms break up
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its ';advanced'; or ';retard'; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if he missed a tooth the car would not run, the timing could be part of the problem, if you do not know how, and do not have a timing light, there is no way to explain it to you on this forum. it is not too hard or expensive find a local shop who is willing to help and will set the timing for a quick 25 bucks, also you need to replace the distributor cap and rotor, this is part of a tune up.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if you move the distributor to the end of the slot approx 12 degrees that makes up for about one tooth off. Sorry Your picture tells the story. I would suspect a mistake was done when the timing belt was replaced. Nissan Factory Timing belts have a dotted line for the rear (right bank1)cam sprocket and two solid lines for (front bank2) cam sprocket and solid line for crank sprocket with mark at approx 7 o'clock key way pointing at bank 1 Nissan Timing belt is very hard to get wrong. To set timing we use a strobe light timing light to align the timing mark on the crank pulley turning the distributor with the motor runing. Many times poor running can be caused by a bad photo optic sensor inside the distributor. Some time you can see the rough running with a diagnostic Scope watching the Ignition wave forms break up
1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
HELLO!! My car is running rough since a month, I changed plug wires,spark plugs (ngk), air filter, drive belts, engine oil, but it still runs rough! Can my distributor be the reason? How do I test if my distributor is working properly? Does it have any inicial starting position everytime the engine goes on/off? What about the solenoide? Can my solenoide output voltage be the reason? Meaning less spark...?
I step on the gas but there is no acceleration increment (as before) and no power (even with a V6!). The car SOUNDS like it ';has'; POWER but when on the road it just doesnt show! The only thing changing is my gas bill (wasting more gas $$$). I try to avoid hills because its hard to go up with the condition my car is in!!
Can an EGR valve or IAC valve (or any other valve) get damaged when washing the engine with a hose/degreaser? What are some common components that may cause an engine like mine to run rough?
And finally, can it be possible (meaning the reason of my problem) the intake manifold be clogged with gunk? Or some other air/fuel/gas hose? The car has only 82,000 miles, BUT it only had 1 time replaced air filter (55,000 miles I guess) and the one that it had wasnt filtering 100% since its width wasnt the appropiate!!
Also Im thinking fuel injectors may be working wrong...I hosed them with water when attempting to wash my engine. Can they go BAD that way? I took off my battery when washing the engine...
And one more question, HOW DO I TEST a spark plug? I have one method which is by disconnecting (when the engine is running) a plug wire from the spark plug, and if the engine ';stumbles'; or if I hear a change in engine performance, then there is spark in the cylinder...The problem is, I DO NOT HAVE a 10K Volt generator to see the arc in the spark plug!!1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
did u change cap rotor u didnt say if u did timing could have jumped too did u check fuel pressure u can test the coil spark should jump atleast a half inch dist is optical water could have damadged it if it got into it check ur basics again so u know where problem is coming from iff ur useing alot of gas check ur o2 sensor reading if stuck lean comp will add more fuel same thing for coolant temp sensor which is notorious on nissans check ur connections since early nissan wiring harnessses tend to corrod injector dont useually go bad on these nissans they usually leak like i said do ur basics again test spark fuel pressure timing then if everything checks out check input from sensors tps .5-.9 at idle maf 1.2-1.5 at idle coolant temp around 3.5 at normal engine temp easier to see with scanner iff u need any more info email me1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
Sounds like cam timing (as opposed to ignition timing) jumped.
If it only happened after you washed the motor check if the inside of the distributor cap is wet. Dry it with WD-40.myspace code hair combs
I step on the gas but there is no acceleration increment (as before) and no power (even with a V6!). The car SOUNDS like it ';has'; POWER but when on the road it just doesnt show! The only thing changing is my gas bill (wasting more gas $$$). I try to avoid hills because its hard to go up with the condition my car is in!!
Can an EGR valve or IAC valve (or any other valve) get damaged when washing the engine with a hose/degreaser? What are some common components that may cause an engine like mine to run rough?
And finally, can it be possible (meaning the reason of my problem) the intake manifold be clogged with gunk? Or some other air/fuel/gas hose? The car has only 82,000 miles, BUT it only had 1 time replaced air filter (55,000 miles I guess) and the one that it had wasnt filtering 100% since its width wasnt the appropiate!!
Also Im thinking fuel injectors may be working wrong...I hosed them with water when attempting to wash my engine. Can they go BAD that way? I took off my battery when washing the engine...
And one more question, HOW DO I TEST a spark plug? I have one method which is by disconnecting (when the engine is running) a plug wire from the spark plug, and if the engine ';stumbles'; or if I hear a change in engine performance, then there is spark in the cylinder...The problem is, I DO NOT HAVE a 10K Volt generator to see the arc in the spark plug!!1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
did u change cap rotor u didnt say if u did timing could have jumped too did u check fuel pressure u can test the coil spark should jump atleast a half inch dist is optical water could have damadged it if it got into it check ur basics again so u know where problem is coming from iff ur useing alot of gas check ur o2 sensor reading if stuck lean comp will add more fuel same thing for coolant temp sensor which is notorious on nissans check ur connections since early nissan wiring harnessses tend to corrod injector dont useually go bad on these nissans they usually leak like i said do ur basics again test spark fuel pressure timing then if everything checks out check input from sensors tps .5-.9 at idle maf 1.2-1.5 at idle coolant temp around 3.5 at normal engine temp easier to see with scanner iff u need any more info email me1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
Sounds like cam timing (as opposed to ignition timing) jumped.
If it only happened after you washed the motor check if the inside of the distributor cap is wet. Dry it with WD-40.
94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
How the hell do you get the bolt off the rotor? It's turned at a bad angle and I can't even see if it's a phillips head, or what. Also, the valve cover gasket is pretty much shot and there's oil in all the spark plug wells, the car should still run, right? It's worked fine up until now, and I know it needs to be fixed, but the car stopped running to day and I changed the plugs, wires, and distributor cap, but I can't get the damn rotor off. I tried restarting the car with the new stuff and the old rotor, but it still won't fire. Hopefully when I get back under the distributor cap the rotor bolt will be a more manageable place. Any other ideas?94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
just get your engine to TDC. (rotor pointing to #1) you can get the screw off from there.
it should be a phillips head.
may also be your ignitor going out.
94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
mark the position of the distributor, and remove the 3 12mm bolts. now you can free spin the rotor to were you can get to it. Also you gotta remove the distributor because that o-ring leaks real bad, you usually replace it when you replace the valve cover. Another reason the car is not starting is the main relay. After you do all the engine work, and the car still will not start. Get a main relay.
distributor off tap the engine until the bolt faces the opening and take out. if not break the rotor and make opening with little vise grip take out. u don't have to pull distributor. if no spark try coil most of the time it's a bad coil.
just get your engine to TDC. (rotor pointing to #1) you can get the screw off from there.
it should be a phillips head.
may also be your ignitor going out.
94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
mark the position of the distributor, and remove the 3 12mm bolts. now you can free spin the rotor to were you can get to it. Also you gotta remove the distributor because that o-ring leaks real bad, you usually replace it when you replace the valve cover. Another reason the car is not starting is the main relay. After you do all the engine work, and the car still will not start. Get a main relay.
distributor off tap the engine until the bolt faces the opening and take out. if not break the rotor and make opening with little vise grip take out. u don't have to pull distributor. if no spark try coil most of the time it's a bad coil.
Seeking input on how to land my first job in the wine industry.?
I posted this question earlier today, but after reading the responses, realized that I should have included some more pertinent information. So, here it goes... I'm looking for some direction on how I should be approaching a career change into the wine business. I need to earn a respectable living and do something stimulating. So, working in a tasting room at a winery seems to be out due to not enough income and dealing with the same 5-10 wines EVERY day. I'd ideally like to work for a distributor/importer or become a sommelier/assistant sommelier, but from my research, both of these positions require a few years of experience at a minimum. Does anyone know if I have any PRAYER of landing one of these types of jobs right off the bat with no experience? And if so, what do I have to do to land one? By no experience I am only referring to working in the wine business. I have been an avid wine lover for 6 years, have read many encyclopedic wine volumes, and really know my stuff!Seeking input on how to land my first job in the wine industry.?
Hmm... Well, I got my first wine job working in a retail store/wine bar, that would probably be the easiest to job to get. After some experience on that level, you can move up to other things. Depending on where you are in the country depends on how much they value wine knowledge in the distribution end of the business. For example, I lived in Milwaukee, WI for a number of years and the wine reps there knew there stuff. I currently live in South Florida and you would expect the same, but there are very few that know alot about wine down here. As far as a sommelier job, good luck they are very few and far between. I lucked out getting my last two positions, just the right place at the right time. If you want to get into the restaurant and sell to consumers, I suggestion taking some classes and read, read, read.. oh yeah tasting anything and everything doesn't hurt either.Seeking input on how to land my first job in the wine industry.?
Forget becoming a sommelier as that takes time, talent, training, and a lot of luck. You have to be able to taste the qualities and differences of the wine, describe it, sell it and pair it with food. Not an easy task even if you have been drinking it for years.
If you really want to do this, you'll most likely start off as a waiter and slowly work your way up. Attend wine classes and events hosted by wine companies. Eventually taking whatever tests are necessary to become an accredited sommelier. Then the fun really starts.
Most places can't afford one as these guys can command large salaries. Stick to the fancy hotels, the expensive restaurants and the places where the well heeled decide to dine and drop their money.
I have been working for a wine distributor/importer for a year plus now (first outside sales job) and I wish I had started in retail. I think at the retail level, tho usually salaried, one really gets a good education on wines in general. Working for a distributor, I am learning about our company's specialty--S. American wines. Wonderful wines, yes, but I don't get to experience other wines also. Hmmm...perhaps this is the opportunity for me to really dig in and become an expert in the area of S. American wines. Bye bye! Time to hit the books and the bottles!
Hmm... Well, I got my first wine job working in a retail store/wine bar, that would probably be the easiest to job to get. After some experience on that level, you can move up to other things. Depending on where you are in the country depends on how much they value wine knowledge in the distribution end of the business. For example, I lived in Milwaukee, WI for a number of years and the wine reps there knew there stuff. I currently live in South Florida and you would expect the same, but there are very few that know alot about wine down here. As far as a sommelier job, good luck they are very few and far between. I lucked out getting my last two positions, just the right place at the right time. If you want to get into the restaurant and sell to consumers, I suggestion taking some classes and read, read, read.. oh yeah tasting anything and everything doesn't hurt either.Seeking input on how to land my first job in the wine industry.?
Forget becoming a sommelier as that takes time, talent, training, and a lot of luck. You have to be able to taste the qualities and differences of the wine, describe it, sell it and pair it with food. Not an easy task even if you have been drinking it for years.
If you really want to do this, you'll most likely start off as a waiter and slowly work your way up. Attend wine classes and events hosted by wine companies. Eventually taking whatever tests are necessary to become an accredited sommelier. Then the fun really starts.
Most places can't afford one as these guys can command large salaries. Stick to the fancy hotels, the expensive restaurants and the places where the well heeled decide to dine and drop their money.
I have been working for a wine distributor/importer for a year plus now (first outside sales job) and I wish I had started in retail. I think at the retail level, tho usually salaried, one really gets a good education on wines in general. Working for a distributor, I am learning about our company's specialty--S. American wines. Wonderful wines, yes, but I don't get to experience other wines also. Hmmm...perhaps this is the opportunity for me to really dig in and become an expert in the area of S. American wines. Bye bye! Time to hit the books and the bottles!
How much could i see my truck for?
I want to get rid of my big truck and get a small car cause of gas
I have a 94 Ford F-150 5-8 liter 4x4 extended cab step up with 188285 miles
it has new brake pads front and back, new ball joints in front, new spark plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor runs, and oil changed great and pretty good on gas for a big truckHow much could i see my truck for?
you can see it for free, but only sell it for 2500 or lessHow much could i see my truck for?
Go to www.kbb.com (Kelly Blue Book), fill in all the stats on your truck, and it will tell you how much you can get out of it.
look at kbb.com or edmunds.com for a resale price, however it will probably be a little less since these types of vechiles are not in demand at the moment. .
At this time trucks like yours are not in high demand. So what you think it is worth, divide that by 2 and hope you can sell it. I have a truck like this and I know what it is worth, can I get that much for it, NO! If I want to sell it than I'll get about half of what its worth.. that is if I could find a buyer. So you will need to decide if the lost you get is worth the gas you'll save.
I have a 94 Ford F-150 5-8 liter 4x4 extended cab step up with 188285 miles
it has new brake pads front and back, new ball joints in front, new spark plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor runs, and oil changed great and pretty good on gas for a big truckHow much could i see my truck for?
you can see it for free, but only sell it for 2500 or lessHow much could i see my truck for?
Go to www.kbb.com (Kelly Blue Book), fill in all the stats on your truck, and it will tell you how much you can get out of it.
look at kbb.com or edmunds.com for a resale price, however it will probably be a little less since these types of vechiles are not in demand at the moment. .
At this time trucks like yours are not in high demand. So what you think it is worth, divide that by 2 and hope you can sell it. I have a truck like this and I know what it is worth, can I get that much for it, NO! If I want to sell it than I'll get about half of what its worth.. that is if I could find a buyer. So you will need to decide if the lost you get is worth the gas you'll save.
How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
I don't have the repair manual for a Ford Taurus 1996 V6 3.0 litres,so i don't know the firing order,i am not replacing the distributor cap,only the plugs.is the firing order very important when changing the plugs?
Thanks in advance.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
If you take out one plug, replace it and put the wire back on, then do the next one, until they're all changed, one by one, you cannot mix them up. If you have two wires loose at the same time, there's a chance you might mix them up- only 50% chance. If you take them all off, then there's a great chance some will be on wrong unless you label them, and you would do well to know the firing order to doublecheck your work to make sure they're labeled right. The bottom line is, if you do them one at a time, you don't have to know the firing order.
When you get ready to change the distributor cap, remember, one wire at a time. If you xerox the page from Chiltons Auto Repair showing the firing order diagram, that is good insurance for you, just in case.
They used to put the firing order on the intake manifold of engines. I haven't looked for years, though.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
No it's not important as long as you do one plug at a time.
ok bud it is your bible, no other way to say how important that is, ill post it later, are you sure its got a distributor?im gonna look in my book, just as soon as i finish dinner and banana split, and maybe a beer.
One at a time, no need to know firing order.
If you get them out of order then gas will build up in one piston when the plug doesn't fire and then it will backfire very badly, even shooting flames up your carburetor and damaging your engine. Do what everyone else said and change one plug at a time.
it can be criticle if you dont go one by one. you will find the firing order for this engine is somewhere on the engine usually on the intake manifold though just incase. as I recall you have a coil pack on the top of the engine and I believe each coil pack matched up to the spark plud they fired example the front left pack was to the front left plug, middle to middle plug etc. ps be sure to put some antiseize of the threads of the spark plug you are installing as they tend to gall in the threded part of the cylinder without this your next time may be the end of betsy the taurus.
Suggest to do one at a time, then no need to know firing order
Thanks in advance.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
If you take out one plug, replace it and put the wire back on, then do the next one, until they're all changed, one by one, you cannot mix them up. If you have two wires loose at the same time, there's a chance you might mix them up- only 50% chance. If you take them all off, then there's a great chance some will be on wrong unless you label them, and you would do well to know the firing order to doublecheck your work to make sure they're labeled right. The bottom line is, if you do them one at a time, you don't have to know the firing order.
When you get ready to change the distributor cap, remember, one wire at a time. If you xerox the page from Chiltons Auto Repair showing the firing order diagram, that is good insurance for you, just in case.
They used to put the firing order on the intake manifold of engines. I haven't looked for years, though.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
No it's not important as long as you do one plug at a time.
ok bud it is your bible, no other way to say how important that is, ill post it later, are you sure its got a distributor?im gonna look in my book, just as soon as i finish dinner and banana split, and maybe a beer.
One at a time, no need to know firing order.
If you get them out of order then gas will build up in one piston when the plug doesn't fire and then it will backfire very badly, even shooting flames up your carburetor and damaging your engine. Do what everyone else said and change one plug at a time.
it can be criticle if you dont go one by one. you will find the firing order for this engine is somewhere on the engine usually on the intake manifold though just incase. as I recall you have a coil pack on the top of the engine and I believe each coil pack matched up to the spark plud they fired example the front left pack was to the front left plug, middle to middle plug etc. ps be sure to put some antiseize of the threads of the spark plug you are installing as they tend to gall in the threded part of the cylinder without this your next time may be the end of betsy the taurus.
Suggest to do one at a time, then no need to know firing order
How is moisture getting inside my distributor cap?
Since I've had my car, it has always misfired in the rain, or even after a morning dew. I replaced the plugs, wires, and distributor cap thinking that the cap might have been cracked. I did NOT change the rotor, but should have. When I spray the engine with water late at night to look for sparks, there are sparks coming off of the distributor bolt. Water is still getting in there somehow. The car runs fine when it's nice and dry out, so the rotor really can't be that bad, it's just when water gets in there. The cap is nice and tight, and practically brand new. What can I do about this?How is moisture getting inside my distributor cap?
You need to check the rubber boots that's around the wire's going into the distibutor, if you are get spark at the distributor bolts you might wont to check the distributor housing to see if it as a crack in it. also check to see if you might have a wire rubbing and shorten out causing it to spark.find remote key bmw logo computer slow freezes up
You need to check the rubber boots that's around the wire's going into the distibutor, if you are get spark at the distributor bolts you might wont to check the distributor housing to see if it as a crack in it. also check to see if you might have a wire rubbing and shorten out causing it to spark.
How can you tell if a Distributor's timing is off? Help!?
Hello!
So I bought a 1995 Dodge Colt, manual transmission, at the beginning of the summer and had a tune-up right away, where the mechanic said all was well with the car. Throughout the summer problems revealed themselves and I finally decided to get the car checked again.
About two and a half weeks ago I took my car in to get a wheel rotation and asked the mechanic to also check the engine, as it didn't have a lot of power in it (it was so weak... so so weak).
He called me back and I found out that the bolt on the distributor wasn't on, letting the distributor distribute power erroneously. As a result, the timing was way off and when the sparks went off to give power to the engine, the pistons were already half way down, thereby giving little or no power to the engine (or something like that, I'm speaking out of very late memory).
My father thinks that the mechanic I took this car to at the beginning of the summer when I first bought it, either took the bolt on the distributor off, or ';somehow'; missed the fact that it didn't have one (which would make them a very bad mechanic indeed).
I'm very paranoid about mechanics now, and people taking the bolt off, and I'm obsessed about the power of the engine. When I got my car back from the other guy, there was a hell of a lot more power in the engine!
I've taken the car in since to get new wheels and an oil change and can't help thinking, ';Did they do something to the distributor? Did they?!';
So the BIG question is: How can you tell if the timing is off a distributor.
Thank you in advance!How can you tell if a Distributor's timing is off? Help!?
Lack of power.
Hard starting.
Backfire.
Poor fuel mileage.How can you tell if a Distributor's timing is off? Help!?
you can take it to a mechanic he can check it with a timing light, or you can rent a light and check it yourself, under the hood should tell you what the base timing is in form of degrees, most likely 5-12 or something. If its too far retarded, or not advanced enough, it will have low power and poor economy, advancing it too much can cause predetonation or knocking which means too much heat is built up in the combustion chambers, take it to a dealer and tell them to set the timing, I highly doubt the first mechanic even touched the ignition timing it was likely that way before hand and finally wiggled loose
Like you said you'd have a lack of power. Plus one old timer once told me on how to find out if you think something is out of timing or miss firing to put the car/truck in drive step on the break and the gas at the same time and if you hear a popping sound coming from the exhaust you have a miss fire. From there you trace it back from the spark plug to the distributor to the ignition control module (which controls timing). If any are out of wak then you'd see it being sluggish and miss firing.
What could of happened is that the bolt on the distributor may of not got tightened down and when the engine is running over a period of time it can vibrate out of the hole it came out of.The so called mechanic that did the tune up may of forgot to tighten it down when he may of got busy with something else temporary and forgot to tighten it.But what else can happen with timing is that if your car has a timing belt it can also jump timing if it is not replaced every so many miles like 30,000 is what is recommended.If you have a timing light look up the timing specs and check on it yourself to see where it is at.
So I bought a 1995 Dodge Colt, manual transmission, at the beginning of the summer and had a tune-up right away, where the mechanic said all was well with the car. Throughout the summer problems revealed themselves and I finally decided to get the car checked again.
About two and a half weeks ago I took my car in to get a wheel rotation and asked the mechanic to also check the engine, as it didn't have a lot of power in it (it was so weak... so so weak).
He called me back and I found out that the bolt on the distributor wasn't on, letting the distributor distribute power erroneously. As a result, the timing was way off and when the sparks went off to give power to the engine, the pistons were already half way down, thereby giving little or no power to the engine (or something like that, I'm speaking out of very late memory).
My father thinks that the mechanic I took this car to at the beginning of the summer when I first bought it, either took the bolt on the distributor off, or ';somehow'; missed the fact that it didn't have one (which would make them a very bad mechanic indeed).
I'm very paranoid about mechanics now, and people taking the bolt off, and I'm obsessed about the power of the engine. When I got my car back from the other guy, there was a hell of a lot more power in the engine!
I've taken the car in since to get new wheels and an oil change and can't help thinking, ';Did they do something to the distributor? Did they?!';
So the BIG question is: How can you tell if the timing is off a distributor.
Thank you in advance!How can you tell if a Distributor's timing is off? Help!?
Lack of power.
Hard starting.
Backfire.
Poor fuel mileage.How can you tell if a Distributor's timing is off? Help!?
you can take it to a mechanic he can check it with a timing light, or you can rent a light and check it yourself, under the hood should tell you what the base timing is in form of degrees, most likely 5-12 or something. If its too far retarded, or not advanced enough, it will have low power and poor economy, advancing it too much can cause predetonation or knocking which means too much heat is built up in the combustion chambers, take it to a dealer and tell them to set the timing, I highly doubt the first mechanic even touched the ignition timing it was likely that way before hand and finally wiggled loose
Like you said you'd have a lack of power. Plus one old timer once told me on how to find out if you think something is out of timing or miss firing to put the car/truck in drive step on the break and the gas at the same time and if you hear a popping sound coming from the exhaust you have a miss fire. From there you trace it back from the spark plug to the distributor to the ignition control module (which controls timing). If any are out of wak then you'd see it being sluggish and miss firing.
What could of happened is that the bolt on the distributor may of not got tightened down and when the engine is running over a period of time it can vibrate out of the hole it came out of.The so called mechanic that did the tune up may of forgot to tighten it down when he may of got busy with something else temporary and forgot to tighten it.But what else can happen with timing is that if your car has a timing belt it can also jump timing if it is not replaced every so many miles like 30,000 is what is recommended.If you have a timing light look up the timing specs and check on it yourself to see where it is at.
When I remove vacuum line from carburetor, the engine idle stays the same. Isn't idle suppose to increase?
I have a '72 GMC Custom-1500, 350 engine/4 bbl Quadrajet 4MV, and an automatic transmission. I replaced points distributor with a HEI distributor. I don't believe advance is working. How can I check it without any special tools? Also, when I remove vacuum advance hose from carburetor, the engine idle doesn't change. Isn't idle suppose to increase or something?When I remove vacuum line from carburetor, the engine idle stays the same. Isn't idle suppose to increase?
There are two different kinds of vacuum ported and manifold. You vac advance is connected to the ported vacuum. There are two differences between these vacuum sources. Ported vacuum doesn't start until the carb plates uncover the port while manifold vacuum is constant. The other difference is that ported vacuum increase as the RPMs go up and manifold vacuum decreases. So, no you won檛 see an idle change when you disconnect your advance, and no you won檛 see it come on as your engine will not pull enough vacuum to pull the advance until it is under load. If you think that your advance is not working you can do the old mouth test, pull the cap and suck on the hose (or connect it to a vacuum source) the advance should move.When I remove vacuum line from carburetor, the engine idle stays the same. Isn't idle suppose to increase?
check that vac. line and filter, it sounds plugged.
If you follow the route of the vacuum advance line you will find it's plugged into the carburetor somewhere ABOVE the throttle plates. When the motor idles there's no vacuum above the plates. This is completely normal. To prove the advance mechanism is working plug it to a vacuum location below the throttle blades and place a finger beneath the vacuum canister rod that attaches to the breaker plate. Have someone start the motor. You should feel the rod pull toward you. You could also hook up a length of hose and connect it to the vacuum advance canister. Place it in your mouth and create vacuum. The canister rod will move if it's working properly.
The source location of vacuum for the vacuum advance canister was chanced in the late sixties for emissions purposes. Between you, I and the fence post your motor will run sharper if you leave the vacuum advance line plugged into a source below the throttle plates. You will find that the motor will sound less labored at idol and will pick up some RPM's. You may need to set the idol back down a bit. The motor will run better at light throttle. You may squeeze a little better fuel economy out of it.
There are two different kinds of vacuum ported and manifold. You vac advance is connected to the ported vacuum. There are two differences between these vacuum sources. Ported vacuum doesn't start until the carb plates uncover the port while manifold vacuum is constant. The other difference is that ported vacuum increase as the RPMs go up and manifold vacuum decreases. So, no you won檛 see an idle change when you disconnect your advance, and no you won檛 see it come on as your engine will not pull enough vacuum to pull the advance until it is under load. If you think that your advance is not working you can do the old mouth test, pull the cap and suck on the hose (or connect it to a vacuum source) the advance should move.When I remove vacuum line from carburetor, the engine idle stays the same. Isn't idle suppose to increase?
check that vac. line and filter, it sounds plugged.
If you follow the route of the vacuum advance line you will find it's plugged into the carburetor somewhere ABOVE the throttle plates. When the motor idles there's no vacuum above the plates. This is completely normal. To prove the advance mechanism is working plug it to a vacuum location below the throttle blades and place a finger beneath the vacuum canister rod that attaches to the breaker plate. Have someone start the motor. You should feel the rod pull toward you. You could also hook up a length of hose and connect it to the vacuum advance canister. Place it in your mouth and create vacuum. The canister rod will move if it's working properly.
The source location of vacuum for the vacuum advance canister was chanced in the late sixties for emissions purposes. Between you, I and the fence post your motor will run sharper if you leave the vacuum advance line plugged into a source below the throttle plates. You will find that the motor will sound less labored at idol and will pick up some RPM's. You may need to set the idol back down a bit. The motor will run better at light throttle. You may squeeze a little better fuel economy out of it.
Need advice on landing my first job in the Wine Industry?
I'm looking for some direction on how I should be approaching a career change into the wine business. I need to earn a respectable living and do something stimulating. So, working in a tasting room at a winery seems to be out due to not enough income and dealing with the same 5-10 wines EVERY day. I'd ideally like to work for a distributor/importer or become a sommelier/assistant sommelier, but from my research, both of these positions require a few years of experience at a minimum. Does anyone know if I have any PRAYER of landing one of these types of jobs right off the bat with no experience? And if so, what do I have to do to land one? Any and all advice is welcomed!Need advice on landing my first job in the Wine Industry?
To become an actual sommelier you have to do quite a bit of schooling and even then many starting out make less money than servers. Depending on where you live, your best bet is to work for one of the big distrubutors (almost all of whom are evil and are destroying the industry) but again starting out will not be terribly glamorous. You will probably end up doing mostly the grocery stores, where you will essentially be a glorified delivery person (must be able to lift at least 40 lbs for most of these jobs). Just like anything else you have to work your way up.Need advice on landing my first job in the Wine Industry?
Its call being a waiter
best thing to do is just like get a book on wines and why they are reds whites etc etc then when you go in for a job opprtunity you will look as sound as though you have been doing it for years and you would have a better chance. Employers are more interested in people with experience becasue they want their money that their paying you to be well spent and if you can show them that it is worth it then you will be more likely to be hired. Dont be excited that if you do this you will get the job you want right away but they will notice you and you will move up the ranks faster and develop a better relationship with them.
Drink your share and sell the rest
How would you convince me to travel to my nearest winery 30 miles away?
How would get the young adults to want to gather for social contact.
check out your university cities
Gathering places have food.
If you have no experience your best bet would be to work on the distributor end until you have increased your wine knowledge.
Most distributors have great wine classes.
Don't forget about large wine shops and liquor stores.
You could express your desire to learn more and grow with their company.
Remember most wine shops and work on commission.
The main reason I push you this way, is to be a Sommelier you need experience serving and that could be a long time before you start making good money.
To become an actual sommelier you have to do quite a bit of schooling and even then many starting out make less money than servers. Depending on where you live, your best bet is to work for one of the big distrubutors (almost all of whom are evil and are destroying the industry) but again starting out will not be terribly glamorous. You will probably end up doing mostly the grocery stores, where you will essentially be a glorified delivery person (must be able to lift at least 40 lbs for most of these jobs). Just like anything else you have to work your way up.Need advice on landing my first job in the Wine Industry?
Its call being a waiter
best thing to do is just like get a book on wines and why they are reds whites etc etc then when you go in for a job opprtunity you will look as sound as though you have been doing it for years and you would have a better chance. Employers are more interested in people with experience becasue they want their money that their paying you to be well spent and if you can show them that it is worth it then you will be more likely to be hired. Dont be excited that if you do this you will get the job you want right away but they will notice you and you will move up the ranks faster and develop a better relationship with them.
Drink your share and sell the rest
How would you convince me to travel to my nearest winery 30 miles away?
How would get the young adults to want to gather for social contact.
check out your university cities
Gathering places have food.
If you have no experience your best bet would be to work on the distributor end until you have increased your wine knowledge.
Most distributors have great wine classes.
Don't forget about large wine shops and liquor stores.
You could express your desire to learn more and grow with their company.
Remember most wine shops and work on commission.
The main reason I push you this way, is to be a Sommelier you need experience serving and that could be a long time before you start making good money.
94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, spark
After we have changed the above, now it will not even start!! It did start fine, and idled well. I bought it used, and it doesnt have an engine computer in it. How do i check the 4 sensors? What other ideas do you have?? A Nissan mechanic suggested changing a coil in the distributor,, we did, to the tune of $100+, then it wouldn't even start! The more we work on the worse it is getting. Help, please94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, spark
If your check engine light is on you can get a diagnostic check and it'll tell you what sensor is bad. Have you checked your fuel pump?94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, spark
check compression of engine .go from there. sounds like a timing problem.
If your check engine light is on you can get a diagnostic check and it'll tell you what sensor is bad. Have you checked your fuel pump?94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, spark
check compression of engine .go from there. sounds like a timing problem.
What exactly does this stock market crisis mean for me?
We rent, have no retirement or investments, hubby is a salesman for a local beer distributor, we have a checking and modest savings account through a credit union. I have one low limit credit card. How will this mess affect us? Are we looking at a serious change in lifestyle? Hubby feels his job is very secure because he's the best at what he does but everyone seems to be panicking and I am clueless about this stuff. What exactly does this stock market crisis mean for me?
Since you have no retirement plan or investments, you'll probably only be affected through the employment end of things. For instance, some companies run on credit, and may fold if the credit situation doesn't improve. I doubt that the beer business is in that category, so all-in-all you're fairly bulletproof. What exactly does this stock market crisis mean for me?
It may not hurt you at all. I like the old saying, the difference between a recession and a depression; a recession is when you know someone who lost thier job, a depression is when you lose your job.
The stock market is going to hurt people who work for banks, financial institutions, publicly traded companies, companies that require a lot of financing. If enough people lose thier jobs, it will push things to get worse, more forclosures, more bank failures, more job losses...
It gets me into thinking that I should close my back account and stuff my fortune somewhere in my house. The days of tribulation have finally come. Not religious here and not saying that the Bible (or any other holy books) is correct...but I can say that something bad is going to happen if we don't solve this big problem.
Sounds like you and hubby are safe. All Americans should buy stock in toilet paper companies 'cause there's a lot of people crappin' themselves right now as well on crappin' on each other.How often do you wash your bed sheets advice how
Since you have no retirement plan or investments, you'll probably only be affected through the employment end of things. For instance, some companies run on credit, and may fold if the credit situation doesn't improve. I doubt that the beer business is in that category, so all-in-all you're fairly bulletproof. What exactly does this stock market crisis mean for me?
It may not hurt you at all. I like the old saying, the difference between a recession and a depression; a recession is when you know someone who lost thier job, a depression is when you lose your job.
The stock market is going to hurt people who work for banks, financial institutions, publicly traded companies, companies that require a lot of financing. If enough people lose thier jobs, it will push things to get worse, more forclosures, more bank failures, more job losses...
It gets me into thinking that I should close my back account and stuff my fortune somewhere in my house. The days of tribulation have finally come. Not religious here and not saying that the Bible (or any other holy books) is correct...but I can say that something bad is going to happen if we don't solve this big problem.
Sounds like you and hubby are safe. All Americans should buy stock in toilet paper companies 'cause there's a lot of people crappin' themselves right now as well on crappin' on each other.
Becoming a Slumber Parties Distributor Questions/Feedback!?
I am seriously considering becoming a Slumber Parties distributor in the MD area. However, before I jump into a (part-time) career change, I would like some honest feedback from people that are currently distributors or have been in the past.
Here are some questions that I have:
1. What is this company like to work with?
2. How demanding is the ';party schedule';?
3. How does the pay scale work?
4. How do I get started?
5. Are there other fees that you must shell out for not listed on their website?
6. Any other info you think I need to know, or at least your experiences (good OR BAD) working with Slumber Parties!
Thanks, Everyone, in advance!Becoming a Slumber Parties Distributor Questions/Feedback!?
I could probably type pages and pages on how great it is to be a slumber parties distributor but I will take the short cut and reply Directly question by question with short answers
1. What is this company like to work with? I love it, just love it. I can’t say anything bad about it. Love the products, love the free training, the support, etc.
2. How demanding is the ';party schedule';? Just like any other business, you have to work it. Start with friends and relatives and slowly grow your contact list. I never do “cold calls”, it’s more like giving out my business card every time I can.
3. How does the pay scale work? You truly are your own business manager. You buy products at a discount price and sell. The more you sell….
4. How do I get started? We have starter kits and your “up lines” are right behind you on every step. All you need is time and dedication just like any other job, the difference is that this one is fun and you are in charge of your own raise!
5. Are there other fees that you must shell out for not listed on their website? Nope, no fees, just need to stay in a minimum of $ sales for 2 consecutive month ( and that amount is just ridiculously low, you can make it in one slow party!
6. Any other info you think I need to know, or at least your experiences (good OR BAD) working with Slumber Parties! Again, don’t expect easy money but it is fun and you can truly go at our own speed. From seven parties a week to one party a month. The more time you can spend on your business, the higher the income.
Let me know if you need any more in depth responses, you can check my site for more info. www.slumberpartiesbysheila.comBecoming a Slumber Parties Distributor Questions/Feedback!?
Hello!
I was actually a Slumber Parties Distributor on the Eastern Shore of Maryland and I have a different experience from the one before mine.
1. they do NOT care about their Representatives when you need support or assistance. I achieved the level to receive a free love swing when you have a qualifying order b/c their website was not working. I took the initiative to contact the corporate offices at no avail until only after the qualifying date. I than sent an e-mail with all the previous correspondances and that b/c this was their mistake they should stand behind it. I was told they were not going to make any exceptions.
2. The party schedule is what you want it to be. If you can actually people to feel comfortable enough to have a party it can be demanding but a lot of people are afraid to go through with it. You will have a good amount of cancellations.
3. You pay yourself based on what you sell... the pay scale is reasonable
4. You need to pay $250 for a starter kit and no that will not cover everything you will need.. you will undoubtedly be paying out of pocket for many more products to have on display.
5. see above + shipping!!
6. I work with Avon now and I love it... only $10 to get started and NO product inventory and no fear of approaching people because you will get funny looks! It beats paying $250 for a kit with no support. At least Avon has a District Sales Manager right in your back yard to support you!
Either way god luck, I just though it important to share this with you b/c I had a BAD experience and no one willing to help me. I'd prefer to know what I'm getting into before you pay all that money.
I actually sell pampered chef.... but here's my answers to YOUR question. Sort of.
Everybody needs something.
Most of these businesses like this require work.
If you work hard, you make money, and you have to sell so much every so many months to stay active.
I LOVE the slumber party stuff (I'm hosting a party saturday for a friend.)
If you enjoy it, go for it.
And if it doesn't end up working out... you still got a lot of fun stuff at discount price.
But I bet you'll do great if you work at it.
(and talk to the person who answered above me, she probably had TONS of tips that you'll need.)
Here are some questions that I have:
1. What is this company like to work with?
2. How demanding is the ';party schedule';?
3. How does the pay scale work?
4. How do I get started?
5. Are there other fees that you must shell out for not listed on their website?
6. Any other info you think I need to know, or at least your experiences (good OR BAD) working with Slumber Parties!
Thanks, Everyone, in advance!Becoming a Slumber Parties Distributor Questions/Feedback!?
I could probably type pages and pages on how great it is to be a slumber parties distributor but I will take the short cut and reply Directly question by question with short answers
1. What is this company like to work with? I love it, just love it. I can’t say anything bad about it. Love the products, love the free training, the support, etc.
2. How demanding is the ';party schedule';? Just like any other business, you have to work it. Start with friends and relatives and slowly grow your contact list. I never do “cold calls”, it’s more like giving out my business card every time I can.
3. How does the pay scale work? You truly are your own business manager. You buy products at a discount price and sell. The more you sell….
4. How do I get started? We have starter kits and your “up lines” are right behind you on every step. All you need is time and dedication just like any other job, the difference is that this one is fun and you are in charge of your own raise!
5. Are there other fees that you must shell out for not listed on their website? Nope, no fees, just need to stay in a minimum of $ sales for 2 consecutive month ( and that amount is just ridiculously low, you can make it in one slow party!
6. Any other info you think I need to know, or at least your experiences (good OR BAD) working with Slumber Parties! Again, don’t expect easy money but it is fun and you can truly go at our own speed. From seven parties a week to one party a month. The more time you can spend on your business, the higher the income.
Let me know if you need any more in depth responses, you can check my site for more info. www.slumberpartiesbysheila.comBecoming a Slumber Parties Distributor Questions/Feedback!?
Hello!
I was actually a Slumber Parties Distributor on the Eastern Shore of Maryland and I have a different experience from the one before mine.
1. they do NOT care about their Representatives when you need support or assistance. I achieved the level to receive a free love swing when you have a qualifying order b/c their website was not working. I took the initiative to contact the corporate offices at no avail until only after the qualifying date. I than sent an e-mail with all the previous correspondances and that b/c this was their mistake they should stand behind it. I was told they were not going to make any exceptions.
2. The party schedule is what you want it to be. If you can actually people to feel comfortable enough to have a party it can be demanding but a lot of people are afraid to go through with it. You will have a good amount of cancellations.
3. You pay yourself based on what you sell... the pay scale is reasonable
4. You need to pay $250 for a starter kit and no that will not cover everything you will need.. you will undoubtedly be paying out of pocket for many more products to have on display.
5. see above + shipping!!
6. I work with Avon now and I love it... only $10 to get started and NO product inventory and no fear of approaching people because you will get funny looks! It beats paying $250 for a kit with no support. At least Avon has a District Sales Manager right in your back yard to support you!
Either way god luck, I just though it important to share this with you b/c I had a BAD experience and no one willing to help me. I'd prefer to know what I'm getting into before you pay all that money.
I actually sell pampered chef.... but here's my answers to YOUR question. Sort of.
Everybody needs something.
Most of these businesses like this require work.
If you work hard, you make money, and you have to sell so much every so many months to stay active.
I LOVE the slumber party stuff (I'm hosting a party saturday for a friend.)
If you enjoy it, go for it.
And if it doesn't end up working out... you still got a lot of fun stuff at discount price.
But I bet you'll do great if you work at it.
(and talk to the person who answered above me, she probably had TONS of tips that you'll need.)
I notice that on our site that you do not begin the text for our website the way the index page was written.?
Please look at our website, www.2headsarebetterthanone.com You begin in the middle of a sentence and not the way the text was written on our site: Dual head shower head, two-2 head showerhead replacement, double shower head by DSA (manufacturer-distributor).
How do we get this problem changed to the way we want our text posted?I notice that on our site that you do not begin the text for our website the way the index page was written.?
Head over to the Web/html design tutorial section at http://webdesign.about.com/
Jennifer covers all subjects of Web design and html markup and the other things to make your Web page do what you want. You can even post for a critique in the forums.
Her current lead article is:
';Do you write good? ;-)
';Writing well for the Web takes more than just a spell-checker and basic language skills. Web writing is a different format than writing for other media. These ten tips will help you create Web pages that are well-written and easy for your customers to follow.
'; * 10 Tips for Good Web Writing';I notice that on our site that you do not begin the text for our website the way the index page was written.?
I'm sorry to say, but what an awful site! It's ugly for one thing, and it's markup even worse...
Start by fixing those 39 errors found in the W3C Validator... It might help. Maybe not on this perticulair problem, but in general.
How do we get this problem changed to the way we want our text posted?I notice that on our site that you do not begin the text for our website the way the index page was written.?
Head over to the Web/html design tutorial section at http://webdesign.about.com/
Jennifer covers all subjects of Web design and html markup and the other things to make your Web page do what you want. You can even post for a critique in the forums.
Her current lead article is:
';Do you write good? ;-)
';Writing well for the Web takes more than just a spell-checker and basic language skills. Web writing is a different format than writing for other media. These ten tips will help you create Web pages that are well-written and easy for your customers to follow.
'; * 10 Tips for Good Web Writing';I notice that on our site that you do not begin the text for our website the way the index page was written.?
I'm sorry to say, but what an awful site! It's ugly for one thing, and it's markup even worse...
Start by fixing those 39 errors found in the W3C Validator... It might help. Maybe not on this perticulair problem, but in general.
From how many places engine oil can leak?
I have a Daihatsu Charade (aka. Subaru Justy), engine oil is leaking from many places, and I guess I need to change a lot of gaskets and O rings. I know there is a distributor O ring and I can replace that, and I know about valve (or rocker) cover gasket, I'll buy that one as well, crankshaft is not leaking, but engine is almost covered in oil and there are always drops of oil at my parking slot.
Which other seals can be possibly leaking?From how many places engine oil can leak?
Oil pump gasket or seal,camshaft seal,oil pan gasket,oil pressure switch.Put a small dose of engine oil leak detection dye in to engine oil,use the car for a few days then use a UV light to pinpoint where the leak is.From how many places engine oil can leak?
If you see oil on top, change the rocker cover gaskets.
If the oil is on the bottom, change the oil pan gasket.
You might try tightening the transmission screws also.
Then wash the engine, and see it the location of the leak is more obvious.
You should wash his engine using liquid cleaners to ensure a source of the leaks, if the leak came from above the oil will flow down so contaminate the entire machine, and after his engine cleaner it will be easier to determine the source of the leaks.
rear main seals, cam shaft seals, oil filter o-ring, oil cooler (if equipped), head gasket, oil pan.
any where there is a oil gasket 100 of places start with valve cover which is on top oil runs down hill
Which other seals can be possibly leaking?From how many places engine oil can leak?
Oil pump gasket or seal,camshaft seal,oil pan gasket,oil pressure switch.Put a small dose of engine oil leak detection dye in to engine oil,use the car for a few days then use a UV light to pinpoint where the leak is.From how many places engine oil can leak?
If you see oil on top, change the rocker cover gaskets.
If the oil is on the bottom, change the oil pan gasket.
You might try tightening the transmission screws also.
Then wash the engine, and see it the location of the leak is more obvious.
You should wash his engine using liquid cleaners to ensure a source of the leaks, if the leak came from above the oil will flow down so contaminate the entire machine, and after his engine cleaner it will be easier to determine the source of the leaks.
rear main seals, cam shaft seals, oil filter o-ring, oil cooler (if equipped), head gasket, oil pan.
any where there is a oil gasket 100 of places start with valve cover which is on top oil runs down hill
96 Accord V6 won't start after radiator leak?
I was sitting in a parking lot with my car running and noticed some steam from under the hood. I looked at the temp gauge and saw it was at 3/4. So, I popped the hood and saw that the fan was not on even though the temp gauge was 3/4 and I could see that the steam was coming from a very small hairline crack on the very top of the radiator near the cap that was causing the steam. I shut the car off and let it cool down. On the way home, the temp gauge fluxuated up and down but never passed 3/4. At home, I used some radiator putty (for plastic radiators like mine) to seal up the crack and filled the antifreeze back up. The next day I started the car up and test drove it to the store. It drove normal and the temp gauge stayed at the normal 1/3 level but I saw that the putty stopped the steam from spewing out but it was still leaking very slightly from there. Once home I just parked it and checked the antifreeze level again which was slightly lower but nothing major. This brings me to today, which now when I try to start the car it cranks but won't turn over. It seems so colse to turning over but won't. The battery is fully charged and I don't see any white colored gunk in the oil which I've been told leans towards head gasket/warped heads. I also sprayed starter fluid but still no help. The wires %26amp; plugs were changed a few months ago and the fuel pump ';clicks'; when I turn the key to the on position. What else could it be besides the things already mentioned and possibly the main relay or distributor. What could have changed from yesterday that now it won't start and what step should I take now? How do I check for spark or compression since fuel doesn't seem to be the problem?96 Accord V6 won't start after radiator leak?
ok, if there is an air pocket around the cpu coolant temperature sensor, then the computer does not see just how hot the engine is. and since the cpu is what controls the fans, that could be the reason that your car was running so warm(hot). in order to check the compression, you pull all of the plugs out and thread in pressure tester. crank the engine over about 5 pulses. then take a reading. and record it. all of the cylinders should be with in 10 % of each other. i do not have a book in front of me but i know that on my honda book spec minimum is 143 psi on a 1990 civic with a 1.5 liter engine. as i see it your engine should just have 2 more cylinders. while you have a plug wire loose, leave it hanging close to a part of the frame or body of the car, and have a friend crank it over so that you can look for a spark. if you do not see a blue streak, move it a little closer and try again. i will warn you dont get your fingers or any thing else too close to that spark, it bites96 Accord V6 won't start after radiator leak?
Have you checked your fuses? I would if I were you that is where a lot of problems seem to be.
I don't see anything in your adventure that should cause the starting problem. I agree about the fuel - starting fluid didn't fire it up so fuel delivery is at the bottom of the list.
Your '96 is in the range of troublesome ignition switches, so verify the warning lights come on when the ignition is in the ';run'; position. If that is okay, time to check for spark. The procedure in the first source is a good one. Look at the warning at the top of the second source - Honda ignitions handle lots of energy and it will eat your coil up if you let it. If you get spark continue with the second source, if not the prime suspect based on failure rate is the igniter (third source).
ok, if there is an air pocket around the cpu coolant temperature sensor, then the computer does not see just how hot the engine is. and since the cpu is what controls the fans, that could be the reason that your car was running so warm(hot). in order to check the compression, you pull all of the plugs out and thread in pressure tester. crank the engine over about 5 pulses. then take a reading. and record it. all of the cylinders should be with in 10 % of each other. i do not have a book in front of me but i know that on my honda book spec minimum is 143 psi on a 1990 civic with a 1.5 liter engine. as i see it your engine should just have 2 more cylinders. while you have a plug wire loose, leave it hanging close to a part of the frame or body of the car, and have a friend crank it over so that you can look for a spark. if you do not see a blue streak, move it a little closer and try again. i will warn you dont get your fingers or any thing else too close to that spark, it bites96 Accord V6 won't start after radiator leak?
Have you checked your fuses? I would if I were you that is where a lot of problems seem to be.
I don't see anything in your adventure that should cause the starting problem. I agree about the fuel - starting fluid didn't fire it up so fuel delivery is at the bottom of the list.
Your '96 is in the range of troublesome ignition switches, so verify the warning lights come on when the ignition is in the ';run'; position. If that is okay, time to check for spark. The procedure in the first source is a good one. Look at the warning at the top of the second source - Honda ignitions handle lots of energy and it will eat your coil up if you let it. If you get spark continue with the second source, if not the prime suspect based on failure rate is the igniter (third source).
I need help with the 97 3.1 v6 monte carlo ls firing order?
i just bought a 97 3.1 monte carlo, the previous owner told me dat the car would start up then run but dies when you drive for a while. he changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump is good,but someone changed the plugs,wires,and distributor. what is the right firing order front/back. do i have to set the rotor cap,and howI need help with the 97 3.1 v6 monte carlo ls firing order?
Uh, the actual firing order is 1 2 3 4 5 6. There should be a sticker under hood that shows proper wire routing to the 3 coilsI need help with the 97 3.1 v6 monte carlo ls firing order?
The firing order goes 1-6-4-3-5-2 im pretty sure im not too familiar with v 6's
the guy below me is right i forgot that these would have coils sorrygrey hair data entry job in home
Uh, the actual firing order is 1 2 3 4 5 6. There should be a sticker under hood that shows proper wire routing to the 3 coilsI need help with the 97 3.1 v6 monte carlo ls firing order?
The firing order goes 1-6-4-3-5-2 im pretty sure im not too familiar with v 6's
the guy below me is right i forgot that these would have coils sorry
Distributor cap and rotor?
If im changing the distruibtor cap and rotor, is ther a specific way i need to adjust the rotor? how should it be put on?
i put the rotor on and distributor cap and the firing sequence is correct but it wont start...and it did before i change itDistributor cap and rotor?
the rotor will only go on one way and the distriburator cap will only go on in one position so the clamps that hold it on will fasten so I would say you have the wires messed up, you will have to find out the firing order of your engine and get the wires in sequence.Distributor cap and rotor?
Most rotors only go on one way .. they can only go on the same way it came off ... So unless you put the wires back on in a different order which can easily happen.... i would make real sure that your wirering order is correct .... Look in a haynes manual or a chiltons and make sure you have it right... Also turn your rotor over , you should see a slot cut out then look on the shaft you should see the same in reverse... good luck
Rotor only goes on 1 way! What does it do when you try to start it? Pop, spit, or crank normally?
i put the rotor on and distributor cap and the firing sequence is correct but it wont start...and it did before i change itDistributor cap and rotor?
the rotor will only go on one way and the distriburator cap will only go on in one position so the clamps that hold it on will fasten so I would say you have the wires messed up, you will have to find out the firing order of your engine and get the wires in sequence.Distributor cap and rotor?
Most rotors only go on one way .. they can only go on the same way it came off ... So unless you put the wires back on in a different order which can easily happen.... i would make real sure that your wirering order is correct .... Look in a haynes manual or a chiltons and make sure you have it right... Also turn your rotor over , you should see a slot cut out then look on the shaft you should see the same in reverse... good luck
Rotor only goes on 1 way! What does it do when you try to start it? Pop, spit, or crank normally?
88 celica wont start...winding/whinning noise..distributor?
I have an 88 celica gt convertible...the car was running good but this morning as i was pulling into the drive way to wash it, it completely just shut off. When I tryed starting it all I here is a winding/whinning noise coming from the distributor. I took off one of the spark plug wires %26amp; put a screw driver to it then tryed turning it on %26amp; got NO spark. I took off the distributor cap %26amp; trying turning it manually but it wont turn. I am guessing its the distributor but maybe you car guys that know more than me can help me out.
PS..if the distributor is the problem how difficult is it to change? what are something i need to avoid doing so that i install it correctly and not mess up the timing. Please be specific in your response i know the bare minimum about cars. thanks.88 celica wont start...winding/whinning noise..distributor?
it could be the timing belt check that
if its broke it will cause the dist not to turn88 celica wont start...winding/whinning noise..distributor?
You broke the timing belt. Totally agree with the first poster. You may have got lucky too. Since you weren't driving at speed the pistons probably didn't bend the valves. $400 or so to fix the T-belt on a Toyota
It's amazing to me how many consumers know nothing about timing belts.
If you know bare minimum, take it to a shop. You won't be able to do a timing belt anyway. A distributor is easy and you could do it but it's more likely the timing belt.
PS..if the distributor is the problem how difficult is it to change? what are something i need to avoid doing so that i install it correctly and not mess up the timing. Please be specific in your response i know the bare minimum about cars. thanks.88 celica wont start...winding/whinning noise..distributor?
it could be the timing belt check that
if its broke it will cause the dist not to turn88 celica wont start...winding/whinning noise..distributor?
You broke the timing belt. Totally agree with the first poster. You may have got lucky too. Since you weren't driving at speed the pistons probably didn't bend the valves. $400 or so to fix the T-belt on a Toyota
It's amazing to me how many consumers know nothing about timing belts.
If you know bare minimum, take it to a shop. You won't be able to do a timing belt anyway. A distributor is easy and you could do it but it's more likely the timing belt.
How possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?
89 S10 4.3 220k. My truck ran fine before I decided to powerwash the engine. After I washed it It wouldn't start. When I did get it started, it was misfiring badly and would backfire out of the intake. The plugs and wires I changed at the last oil change. I tried replacing the distributor cap, rotor and the pickup coil. I also had the Ignition module tested and it tested good. I tested the coil with an ohmmeter and it was good as well. Could a spark have jumped into the wiring harness and zapped my computer?How possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?
No.. you forced water into the plug wires with the pressure washer and it's cross firing between two cylinders.... plug wires are designed to keep water out at atmospheric pressure, not at 3200psiHow possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?
No.
The ecu is not at fault. Don't power wash your engine. If you are lucky it will dry out after it runs for a while and warms up.
Not likely.......It's probably water somewhere in one of the connectors, you might want to carefully disconnect them one by one, and replace the dielectric grease
in them, you can also try clean, compressed air. I personally have
never heard this happening but I guess there's always a first if it is
the ECU....But being it's such an expensive item to replace, I would
try all other options first.
Good Luck to you..
the difference between the coil secondary and any other system in that car is just too much. even if the spark could wander to the computer it would lack the power to do any damage. allot of us agree that your problem is simply just wet ignition system. dry it out and retry.
No.. you forced water into the plug wires with the pressure washer and it's cross firing between two cylinders.... plug wires are designed to keep water out at atmospheric pressure, not at 3200psiHow possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?
No.
The ecu is not at fault. Don't power wash your engine. If you are lucky it will dry out after it runs for a while and warms up.
Not likely.......It's probably water somewhere in one of the connectors, you might want to carefully disconnect them one by one, and replace the dielectric grease
in them, you can also try clean, compressed air. I personally have
never heard this happening but I guess there's always a first if it is
the ECU....But being it's such an expensive item to replace, I would
try all other options first.
Good Luck to you..
the difference between the coil secondary and any other system in that car is just too much. even if the spark could wander to the computer it would lack the power to do any damage. allot of us agree that your problem is simply just wet ignition system. dry it out and retry.
My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
1996 Honda Accord EX 2.2L SOHC VTEC, 138,000 miles
My car has been hesitating when I press on the gas over the last few days. It gets up to right before the next gear and stays there for 4-5 seconds before it shifts. During these 4-5 seconds I will be almost flooring it but see no change in my RPMs. Its worse with inclines and hills but usually not as bad at high speeds.
The oil is ok, oxygen sensors were changed 3 months ago, and today I just changed out the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve and hose, and air filter. The old plugs and cap/rotor looked good, but the old PCV valve didnt make a sound when I shook it. Overall, the tune up made it idle smoother but it still hesitates. I know I should have done the fuel filter but its way too hard to get to, and I heard its even an all day thing for pros on this year of Accord.
The people at the auto store recommended I use Seafoam and fuel injector cleaner during the tune up, but I have NOT done it yet, since Im not sure what Im dealing with.
Any way to narrow it down to see if its a vacuum leak or tranny problem or something else? And how much can it typically cost to diagnose and fix either? Im guessing the tranny will probably be way more than the car is actually worth but i dont know about vacuum systems at all. Thanks in advance.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
sounds like classic pluged catalytic converter. But other possibilities are ignition timing, timming belt maybe jumped, or your carb if it is carbureted, needs to be rebuilt. If it is the Catalytic converter the way to tell is at night look under the car while it is running and well up to normal operating temp if the Cat is plugged it will be golden red. the rest you will need to have diagnose at you local repair shop.
I dont buy that about the fuel filter, get a second opinion but really you woulnt just lose power to a plugged filter you would have dificulty starting and stalling. I hate to say it but you also might only be running on 3 cylinders but that is worst case scenario. you need it diagnosed by someone who knows what they are doing.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
add the stuff it is cheap enough if vacuum is cosing it, it will be your modulator valve,will be on the trans and have a rubber hose going to it if after you try seafoam and it still acts that way I would say Its a paper rubber kit,which means the trans needs to be rebuilt
My car has been hesitating when I press on the gas over the last few days. It gets up to right before the next gear and stays there for 4-5 seconds before it shifts. During these 4-5 seconds I will be almost flooring it but see no change in my RPMs. Its worse with inclines and hills but usually not as bad at high speeds.
The oil is ok, oxygen sensors were changed 3 months ago, and today I just changed out the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve and hose, and air filter. The old plugs and cap/rotor looked good, but the old PCV valve didnt make a sound when I shook it. Overall, the tune up made it idle smoother but it still hesitates. I know I should have done the fuel filter but its way too hard to get to, and I heard its even an all day thing for pros on this year of Accord.
The people at the auto store recommended I use Seafoam and fuel injector cleaner during the tune up, but I have NOT done it yet, since Im not sure what Im dealing with.
Any way to narrow it down to see if its a vacuum leak or tranny problem or something else? And how much can it typically cost to diagnose and fix either? Im guessing the tranny will probably be way more than the car is actually worth but i dont know about vacuum systems at all. Thanks in advance.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
sounds like classic pluged catalytic converter. But other possibilities are ignition timing, timming belt maybe jumped, or your carb if it is carbureted, needs to be rebuilt. If it is the Catalytic converter the way to tell is at night look under the car while it is running and well up to normal operating temp if the Cat is plugged it will be golden red. the rest you will need to have diagnose at you local repair shop.
I dont buy that about the fuel filter, get a second opinion but really you woulnt just lose power to a plugged filter you would have dificulty starting and stalling. I hate to say it but you also might only be running on 3 cylinders but that is worst case scenario. you need it diagnosed by someone who knows what they are doing.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
add the stuff it is cheap enough if vacuum is cosing it, it will be your modulator valve,will be on the trans and have a rubber hose going to it if after you try seafoam and it still acts that way I would say Its a paper rubber kit,which means the trans needs to be rebuilt
How do you change the points on a 1974 Nova?
I am about to buy a 1974 Nova, it needs new points and I have never had to change points before, how do you do this, how hard is it, and where can I get points at? Also should I go ahead and change the spark plugs, distributor and spark plug wires as well, the car has been sitting since 2003, what do yall think? ThanksHow do you change the points on a 1974 Nova?
Best thing to do is get an HEI upgrade kit from Summit Racing's website. There are a number of them available from several manufacturers. Dump the old breaker-point style components...It makes life so much easier.How do you change the points on a 1974 Nova?
you can buy the points at your local auto parts retailer and they can tell you the correct gap and show you how tyo set the gap. To change the points you remove the distributor cap and the rotor button. You will see the points sitting under the rotor button remove the screw then the points the installation is the reverse of removal. Hope this helps.
you can get points at an auto store( Kragen, NAPA,Checker,Knecht). you should also change the plugs,condenser, cap, rotor and plug wires. the condenser may come with the points.
points are fairly easy to change, just make sure to set them properly.
It's easy to change. Just pop open the distributor cap remove the old points and install the new one. It's a gizmo probably held with two screws. I don't know why they use plural - points - because it's a very singular item. It's like the only thing under the cap. It opens and closes while riding the distributor shaft. Also under the cap: the rotor. You should put in a new cap, rotor, points, and wires unless the wires look new and heavy duty.
It looks like this:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/vi
Go ahead and click on a few of those images. They reminded me: you sould also replace the condensor. All these parts are cheap but very important.
Pics of rotors:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/im
HI
are you sure it has points... the 70's was when they were going to Electronic ignition.
As far as the rest Yes change out the spark plugs %26amp; distributor CAP (not the distributor) %26amp; rotor and plug wires if they are bad.. All can be bought at any parts store.
If you change the spark plug wires be sure to do them ONE AT A TIME SO YOU DON'T MIX THEM UP..( this has be done a lot.) Same with the cap. the cap will only go on one way so line the new cap up next to the old cap and move the wires one at a time.
If its been sitting that long you may have to have the carburetor rebuilt and or cleaned it well be gummed up with the old fuel (float may be stuck, needle and seat may be stuck open as well as the jets may be plugged and accelerate pump shot from sitting dry.)
good luck on your project
Tim
Some 1974 Nova's have no points in the distributor, they were replaced with an ignition module which is screwed-down where the points use to be. If it does have points your GM dealer is the best source for new ones. Don't stew they're easy to replace along with a new condensor. The points are held into place with two small screws on either end of the point set. Don't completely remove the screws just loosten them up they'll slide right out. The condensor is held down with a ring sleeve opposite the points.
After you've installed the points twist the plate where the rotor springs and advance weights were sitting till a lobe of the points cam opens the points. Their should be .019 clearance between the points when the cam lobe is in the center of the point arm. Adjust with a small allan wernch on the left hand side. GM has a special cam grease. Don't wipe on too much.
To double check your workmanship hook up a dwell meter and start the car. With the small allan wernch lift the window on the distributor cap and twist the screw till you see between 28 - 32 degrees of dwell angle on the meter. 30 degrees is about right on the money.
Use an AC-Delco, standard or MSD cap and rotor. AC-Delco, Moroso, Taylor and MSD makes the best ignition wires. Don't use any of Auto Zone's cheap off-shore ignition parts.girl myspace hair pictures
Best thing to do is get an HEI upgrade kit from Summit Racing's website. There are a number of them available from several manufacturers. Dump the old breaker-point style components...It makes life so much easier.How do you change the points on a 1974 Nova?
you can buy the points at your local auto parts retailer and they can tell you the correct gap and show you how tyo set the gap. To change the points you remove the distributor cap and the rotor button. You will see the points sitting under the rotor button remove the screw then the points the installation is the reverse of removal. Hope this helps.
you can get points at an auto store( Kragen, NAPA,Checker,Knecht). you should also change the plugs,condenser, cap, rotor and plug wires. the condenser may come with the points.
points are fairly easy to change, just make sure to set them properly.
It's easy to change. Just pop open the distributor cap remove the old points and install the new one. It's a gizmo probably held with two screws. I don't know why they use plural - points - because it's a very singular item. It's like the only thing under the cap. It opens and closes while riding the distributor shaft. Also under the cap: the rotor. You should put in a new cap, rotor, points, and wires unless the wires look new and heavy duty.
It looks like this:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/vi
Go ahead and click on a few of those images. They reminded me: you sould also replace the condensor. All these parts are cheap but very important.
Pics of rotors:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/im
HI
are you sure it has points... the 70's was when they were going to Electronic ignition.
As far as the rest Yes change out the spark plugs %26amp; distributor CAP (not the distributor) %26amp; rotor and plug wires if they are bad.. All can be bought at any parts store.
If you change the spark plug wires be sure to do them ONE AT A TIME SO YOU DON'T MIX THEM UP..( this has be done a lot.) Same with the cap. the cap will only go on one way so line the new cap up next to the old cap and move the wires one at a time.
If its been sitting that long you may have to have the carburetor rebuilt and or cleaned it well be gummed up with the old fuel (float may be stuck, needle and seat may be stuck open as well as the jets may be plugged and accelerate pump shot from sitting dry.)
good luck on your project
Tim
Some 1974 Nova's have no points in the distributor, they were replaced with an ignition module which is screwed-down where the points use to be. If it does have points your GM dealer is the best source for new ones. Don't stew they're easy to replace along with a new condensor. The points are held into place with two small screws on either end of the point set. Don't completely remove the screws just loosten them up they'll slide right out. The condensor is held down with a ring sleeve opposite the points.
After you've installed the points twist the plate where the rotor springs and advance weights were sitting till a lobe of the points cam opens the points. Their should be .019 clearance between the points when the cam lobe is in the center of the point arm. Adjust with a small allan wernch on the left hand side. GM has a special cam grease. Don't wipe on too much.
To double check your workmanship hook up a dwell meter and start the car. With the small allan wernch lift the window on the distributor cap and twist the screw till you see between 28 - 32 degrees of dwell angle on the meter. 30 degrees is about right on the money.
Use an AC-Delco, standard or MSD cap and rotor. AC-Delco, Moroso, Taylor and MSD makes the best ignition wires. Don't use any of Auto Zone's cheap off-shore ignition parts.
How badly will this damage my motor? And if I were to replace it? Chevelle Malibu 350?
This was my father's car. I recently took it off his hands and my buddy and I first went to start it and it wouldn't start. So we changed the battery, starter, cables and some wires. Then tried, it turned over but still didn't start. Then we replaced all the plugs, changed oil, coolant, new HEI distributor, alternator and a lil' minor stuff. It finally started. Awesome.
But, when I first got it, I changed the oil (sitting for a couple years), and it looks like good oil (meaning no water was added in). Then after we got it started and let it idle for a couple minutes, here came our problem. I was losing coolant and it has chocolate milk meaning that coolant got into the oil. I believe it's a head gasket that cracked. Probably both since it has been sitting over time. The car WAS NOT driven, so having it leak since we worked on the car, will it damage if we clean it out and change them? Car starts, but leaking. If we replaced the gaskets and cleaned the coolant, should it be all set??How badly will this damage my motor? And if I were to replace it? Chevelle Malibu 350?
Coolant may have been leaking into the crankcase and just sinking to the bottom of the oil pan before you started the engine. The oil won't turn to chocolate milk until it is mixes with the coolant-as in stirred. Get the contaminated oil out of the crankcase right away since glycol reacts with the tin and zinc in bearings even if the engine is not running. You might try pulling each spark plug and if you find one that is different color than the others or wet that can indicate which head gasket is leaking.
After you pull the heads and have checked head and intake manifold gaskets, have the heads checked to make sure they aren't warped and maybe magnifluxed for cracks if there are not any obvious signs of your leak. Sometimes a block crack is not so easy to find but also is not very common. If you repair the leak, and drain and flush the crankcase, your engine should be fine.How badly will this damage my motor? And if I were to replace it? Chevelle Malibu 350?
a bad head gasket could be the problem but an oil cooler or the transmission cooling in the raditer could be bad, try remoive the raditor and take it down and have it pressure tested, if it leaks then you have tranny fluid leaking into the radiator, if it's oil then most possibly if it runs smooth you have a leaking intake manifold gasket whech means replacing the intake gasket not the head gasket.
Car sitting for a LONG time. NOT good. Probably a head gasket OR a cracked cylinder head. Not good.
Now HERE is a piece of PROFESSIONAL and knowlegable advice. IF it is your intention to KEEP the car i would recommend STRAIGHT away to replace the motor with a fresh remanufactured engine. Not a REBUILT, NOT a Junk yard swap, NOT re-ringed engine, but a COMPLETELY remanufactured engine.
If your lucky it is either a head gasket or cracked cylinder head. BUT, if your luck runs as I seem to see it running, you may also have a cracked cylinder liner or block.
If so NO AMOUNT of repairs will help you. For this reason I reccomend a reman engine. You can get them complete (LONG BLOCK) for 800-1000 bucks. Money well spent.
Remember, you heard it here FIRST. Don't let me become an ';I TOLD you so';
1 yes replace all the gasket's
2 if oil is going into the coolant it could a oil seal or a lifter problem
3 you will have too flush the system out to get rid of all the oil
4 if there oil in the coolant there could coolant in the oil
5 don't' start it until you are sure
replace the gaskets. clean and drain the radiator and replace the coolant. does the engine knock or make any noise at all? you said the car sat up for 2 yrs . was it not driven at all during this time?
But, when I first got it, I changed the oil (sitting for a couple years), and it looks like good oil (meaning no water was added in). Then after we got it started and let it idle for a couple minutes, here came our problem. I was losing coolant and it has chocolate milk meaning that coolant got into the oil. I believe it's a head gasket that cracked. Probably both since it has been sitting over time. The car WAS NOT driven, so having it leak since we worked on the car, will it damage if we clean it out and change them? Car starts, but leaking. If we replaced the gaskets and cleaned the coolant, should it be all set??How badly will this damage my motor? And if I were to replace it? Chevelle Malibu 350?
Coolant may have been leaking into the crankcase and just sinking to the bottom of the oil pan before you started the engine. The oil won't turn to chocolate milk until it is mixes with the coolant-as in stirred. Get the contaminated oil out of the crankcase right away since glycol reacts with the tin and zinc in bearings even if the engine is not running. You might try pulling each spark plug and if you find one that is different color than the others or wet that can indicate which head gasket is leaking.
After you pull the heads and have checked head and intake manifold gaskets, have the heads checked to make sure they aren't warped and maybe magnifluxed for cracks if there are not any obvious signs of your leak. Sometimes a block crack is not so easy to find but also is not very common. If you repair the leak, and drain and flush the crankcase, your engine should be fine.How badly will this damage my motor? And if I were to replace it? Chevelle Malibu 350?
a bad head gasket could be the problem but an oil cooler or the transmission cooling in the raditer could be bad, try remoive the raditor and take it down and have it pressure tested, if it leaks then you have tranny fluid leaking into the radiator, if it's oil then most possibly if it runs smooth you have a leaking intake manifold gasket whech means replacing the intake gasket not the head gasket.
Car sitting for a LONG time. NOT good. Probably a head gasket OR a cracked cylinder head. Not good.
Now HERE is a piece of PROFESSIONAL and knowlegable advice. IF it is your intention to KEEP the car i would recommend STRAIGHT away to replace the motor with a fresh remanufactured engine. Not a REBUILT, NOT a Junk yard swap, NOT re-ringed engine, but a COMPLETELY remanufactured engine.
If your lucky it is either a head gasket or cracked cylinder head. BUT, if your luck runs as I seem to see it running, you may also have a cracked cylinder liner or block.
If so NO AMOUNT of repairs will help you. For this reason I reccomend a reman engine. You can get them complete (LONG BLOCK) for 800-1000 bucks. Money well spent.
Remember, you heard it here FIRST. Don't let me become an ';I TOLD you so';
1 yes replace all the gasket's
2 if oil is going into the coolant it could a oil seal or a lifter problem
3 you will have too flush the system out to get rid of all the oil
4 if there oil in the coolant there could coolant in the oil
5 don't' start it until you are sure
replace the gaskets. clean and drain the radiator and replace the coolant. does the engine knock or make any noise at all? you said the car sat up for 2 yrs . was it not driven at all during this time?
I'm replacing an old point type distributor with an HEI Dist.on a 69 Chevy C/10 Truck. How do i wire it in
I need wiring instructions for the new High Energy Ignition distributor. I am installing it into a 1969 Chevy C/10 pickup truck with a 350 Eng. Is there anything i should know about the wiring and my spark plug gap was .035 will i be changing the gap to .040 or .060 and do I need to run my 12 volt power wire through a ballast resistor before I connect it to the distributorI'm replacing an old point type distributor with an HEI Dist.on a 69 Chevy C/10 Truck. How do i wire it in
SIMPLEST option-------%26gt;
use a test light and locate a fuse in the fuse block that is ';Hot'; only when the key is in the ';Run'; and ';Start'; positions. It should not be ';Hot'; in the ';Acc'; position. There used to be two connectors on the old fuse blocks that would work this way.
Run a # 12 wire from the terminal (';Hot'; side of the fuse, not the fused side) to the ';+'; terminal of the HEI dist.
This distributor requires full battery and charging voltage. Use NO resistor.
When the HEI first came out in the early '70s, the plug gap was recommended from .045'; all the way to .80';, and there were fouling issues. G.M. came out with a TSB to run the plugs at .035';, and ultimately recommended .045'; for most applications.
Good LuckI'm replacing an old point type distributor with an HEI Dist.on a 69 Chevy C/10 Truck. How do i wire it in
try 45 on the gap and see how it works and no don't use a resistor thats only for points.
If you had an external module cut the power wire for it (It should be the biggest one) and use that to power the dizzy. If you have a tach use the NEG wire from your coil and connect it to the TACH terminal of the HEI.
Other wise any 12V when the key to ON wire will do.
there should be red and yellow-or red and brown wires goin to your points style seperate coil-on the hei cap it should be marked with 2-3 wire inputs plus your plug that goes from your cap to your distributer-really all you need is the red power wire to go where it says 12v+-dont plug anything into the place marked tach-thats for a tachometer-not another power source-if it has a placed mark ground or 12v- thats where you hook the yellow or brown wire-but most are self grounded and just have a tach and 12v+ input-hope this helps ya-also just have autozone look up the gap on like a 85 chevy truck-these have hei and will give you the proper gap-i think when i changed mine it went up to 43 or 45 gap
SIMPLEST option-------%26gt;
use a test light and locate a fuse in the fuse block that is ';Hot'; only when the key is in the ';Run'; and ';Start'; positions. It should not be ';Hot'; in the ';Acc'; position. There used to be two connectors on the old fuse blocks that would work this way.
Run a # 12 wire from the terminal (';Hot'; side of the fuse, not the fused side) to the ';+'; terminal of the HEI dist.
This distributor requires full battery and charging voltage. Use NO resistor.
When the HEI first came out in the early '70s, the plug gap was recommended from .045'; all the way to .80';, and there were fouling issues. G.M. came out with a TSB to run the plugs at .035';, and ultimately recommended .045'; for most applications.
Good LuckI'm replacing an old point type distributor with an HEI Dist.on a 69 Chevy C/10 Truck. How do i wire it in
try 45 on the gap and see how it works and no don't use a resistor thats only for points.
If you had an external module cut the power wire for it (It should be the biggest one) and use that to power the dizzy. If you have a tach use the NEG wire from your coil and connect it to the TACH terminal of the HEI.
Other wise any 12V when the key to ON wire will do.
there should be red and yellow-or red and brown wires goin to your points style seperate coil-on the hei cap it should be marked with 2-3 wire inputs plus your plug that goes from your cap to your distributer-really all you need is the red power wire to go where it says 12v+-dont plug anything into the place marked tach-thats for a tachometer-not another power source-if it has a placed mark ground or 12v- thats where you hook the yellow or brown wire-but most are self grounded and just have a tach and 12v+ input-hope this helps ya-also just have autozone look up the gap on like a 85 chevy truck-these have hei and will give you the proper gap-i think when i changed mine it went up to 43 or 45 gap
Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
I have been having some rough idling and choppy acceleration. I did that test where you spray water on the wires at night and see if there is a spark. There was a tiny spark, barely noticeable, on one of them, so I decided Im just going to change them all, even though there isnt any noticable corrosion on the rubber. (Also, a little bit of water got under the distributor cap, and there were lots of little sparks dancing around in there... I know... Im not supposed to get water in there, but I ****** up. does that mean I have a distributor problem? I just replaced a failing distributor with a used one.)
Anyway, should I change my spark plugs when I change my wires? I dont know the last time they were changed.
Also, how do I know what size spark plugs/spark plug wires to buy? Are they pretty universal?Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
It doesn't sound like you have a distributor coil problem. Just dry up all your components from all the water and moisture you've sprayed.
http://www.hondacivicrepairs.com/idle-ai
If you appear to be getting spark on all 4 spark plugs (remove your sparkplug with the cable and tap it against the engine block while cranking about 8 times), inspect your Idle Air Control valve instead.
Look inside the screen and see if you have carbon build-up clogging air from entering your engine while on idle. If you do see carbon build-up, use carburetor cleaner spray to get the gunk off the screen. Also, clean or replace your Air Filter.
If this doesn't help, you may want to continue with replacing your distributor rotor, distributor cap, spark plug cables, and spark plugs.
When you visit your local auto parts store, they will ask you the year, model, make of your car and will give you a list of available parts compatible with your vehicle. I use the cheapest which works just fine for my Civic 95. You can also read the recommended spark plug by Honda in your manual or on the label against your upper timing belt cover.
Good luck!Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
Since new plugs will cost next to nothing, and you can eliminate them as a problem, you may as well. You can go for the platinum+4's, which I've had good luck with, splitfire's also, or go for the cheapies if you want to save around $10. Also, you can make sure they're gapped perfectly with most plugs. The gap tool is available at the parts counter for about $2. They can also hook you up with the correct plugs and gap size for your car.
don't know how good you are at work on these cars, but a distributor on this car sucks if you drop the rubber gasket into the engine....might want to let a professional do that.
but plugs and wires should do the job. engine backpressure is usually a problem for acceleration as well....might want to check your catalytic converter.
take the plugs out and see how they are burning. if they still look good the regage them and put them back in. the man at the parts store can tell you what you need.
Anyway, should I change my spark plugs when I change my wires? I dont know the last time they were changed.
Also, how do I know what size spark plugs/spark plug wires to buy? Are they pretty universal?Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
It doesn't sound like you have a distributor coil problem. Just dry up all your components from all the water and moisture you've sprayed.
http://www.hondacivicrepairs.com/idle-ai
If you appear to be getting spark on all 4 spark plugs (remove your sparkplug with the cable and tap it against the engine block while cranking about 8 times), inspect your Idle Air Control valve instead.
Look inside the screen and see if you have carbon build-up clogging air from entering your engine while on idle. If you do see carbon build-up, use carburetor cleaner spray to get the gunk off the screen. Also, clean or replace your Air Filter.
If this doesn't help, you may want to continue with replacing your distributor rotor, distributor cap, spark plug cables, and spark plugs.
When you visit your local auto parts store, they will ask you the year, model, make of your car and will give you a list of available parts compatible with your vehicle. I use the cheapest which works just fine for my Civic 95. You can also read the recommended spark plug by Honda in your manual or on the label against your upper timing belt cover.
Good luck!Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
Since new plugs will cost next to nothing, and you can eliminate them as a problem, you may as well. You can go for the platinum+4's, which I've had good luck with, splitfire's also, or go for the cheapies if you want to save around $10. Also, you can make sure they're gapped perfectly with most plugs. The gap tool is available at the parts counter for about $2. They can also hook you up with the correct plugs and gap size for your car.
don't know how good you are at work on these cars, but a distributor on this car sucks if you drop the rubber gasket into the engine....might want to let a professional do that.
but plugs and wires should do the job. engine backpressure is usually a problem for acceleration as well....might want to check your catalytic converter.
take the plugs out and see how they are burning. if they still look good the regage them and put them back in. the man at the parts store can tell you what you need.
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