be monitoring?
http://www.lakbimanews.lk/columns/col8.h
The entire northern province should know that the pertol stations have been outfitted with defective pumping mechanisms and that when the ENGINEER (not Rajapaksa friend and relation) informed that a much better model was available (and probably could have been ordered through the same distributor as the country of origin was the same) that the Engineer was summarily dismissed and the Rajapaksa associates response was to try and besmirch a former Supreme Court Justice who had readily stood up against the Rajapaksa/Wickremesinghe/Kumaratunga remedial school of existence and unlawful government practices. Do not be remedial for Rajapaksa - Vote for Change. BTW Malinda consider yourself fired.
I would say that Rajapaksa does not believe that all communities are equal or that they deserve the best for if he did he would not allow his unscrupulous henchmen to be controlling these national projects at the huge loss and inconvenience to people in the North.
http://www.colombopage.com/archive_10/Ja
I would also stay off the stock market because these same crooks will be boosting more money since they have now recapitalized each of their own pet banks instead of paying back Gold Key depositors et al. 700K votes for change. 700K votes to implement checks and balances. 700K votes for not bilking the public at every turn. Matara I am asking you for 700K votes, Negombo, I am asking you for 700K votes, Kandy I am asking you for 700K votes, Kurunegala, I am asking you for 700K votes and Jaffna I am asking you for 700,000 votes because as a grown woman I can choose to eat one time a day but these children of yours will not be growing up smart and strong unless they have three meals, that you have every right to demand the ouster of presidential appointees that are utilizing funds to promote prostitution instead of education, that there is no reason that a legitimate leader would overnight remove a HSZ without first disarming the EDPD - why is Rajapaksa behaving in that manner because he is entrenched with the same diabolical forces that have actively participated in repressing ordinary citizen's rights and if we don't effect accountability, transparency and right of redress at this very juncture for whatever obtuse actions are carried out by Rajapaksa and Co. that we will certainly once again be in a position of politicians of the worst calibre again being able to press your communities into reactivating militant behaviour. What all your communities need to know is that as far as the Gold Key/Ceylinco/Seylan imbroglio was concerned that there were active measures taken on the behalf of our sovereign nation so that depositors had earmarked funds available for repayment and that Cecile/Lalith and co. could be brought to books - those funds were used to fatten bank balances instead of bringing rehabilitative compensation to not only the persons affected but also to IDP populations. These funds now are now rumored to be walking out the door in the hands of Rajapaksa associates and Rajapaksa is pretending that he does not know how to properly proceed in an order to have this woman returned to face charges. If you wonder what this has to do with you the reality is that the money that went into these banks is being used to make you take loans instead of reimbursing or repairing the damages that were done to you by the very same government. The reason that this repetetive behaviour occurs is because the government refuses to be accountable to the people and the President seems to think that he is free to do whatever he wishes and he is not. Rajapaksa is not a ruler he is just a very dishonest and unconstitutionally bound politician that needs to be shown the door. In the meantime there are reports coming from Saudi Arabia that the Sri Lanka embassy is encouraging domestics to break their contracts, resort to prostitution in a country where such offense is punishable by death. What is wrong with the Kumaratunge, Wickremesinghe, Rajapaksa equation when they all have certain power at Sri Lanka Airlines and at the embassy that they do not as promised return these domestics to Sri Lanka instead of having them camp under bridges and then be corraled by embassy personel to work a illegal profession that can certainly result in them being executed.
http://www.lakbimanews.lk/news/laknew4.h
Wasn't it the Rajapaksa administration that brought back all the criminal elements for ';election activity';?
http://www.srilankaguardian.org/2010/01/
with 5.2B in foreign exchanges and a new unqualified/no bid loan contract for 6.2B against a new monetary policy set by the CB none of these loans should be approved on a no bid basis. Since there is no emergency situation regarding these waterworks projects a second and third bid package would need to be considered.
http://www.lankabusinessonline.com/fullsMalinda isn't the inferior composite made for breaking attached to certain gas pumps that you were supposed to?
well yes
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
Hello, its me with my 1995 Ford Escort 1.9L Auto again! I have an update: I dont think its the Alternator (why the battery light came on once is beyond me. Could it be I have a Ford?) :) And it runs... but when I am in 'D' or 'R' or any drive gear, I need to put it in Neutral (or Park whe its not moving) and give it gas to avoid it stalling.
It runs with hesitation. I am not sure why. I took the air filter -out,- because it was dirty. No real improvement. Still acts the same.
I wonder if my Fuel Pump is dying. If it was, how could I drive on the highway at 70MPH and 75MPH? It seem to have less power, it downshifted twice to get up a slight incline (4th to 3rd, then back into 4th and then back to 3rd to get up a slight incline at 70MPH, and it dipped to 65MPH... before all this started, it could handle 70 and accelerate to 75MPH Easy. -Sounds- like Fuel Delivery. Hence my main question.)
I even wonder is new Plugs will help me. Could it be they are not woing a good job anymore? They were cleaned....
All this happened so suddenly. Ther guy at the store said my issue may be the Idle COntrol Valve. It costs $75 and takes 2 screws to remove, and i put the sensor back on it, and thats it. I wil know if that helps any later. I also bought the Fuel Filter, and wil have it on this weel (probably.)
So my main question is about the Fuel Pump, if they can suddenly begin their swan song and restrict fuel as well, and also what a Throttle Position Switch is.
PS: I will also read the Chilton bok when I have found it. I founf I already know a lot of the diagnosing, but they also oversimplify and leave stuff out when telling how to do a repair, and i cant even change my own fuel filter. I know how to look at the arow, but I have no jack and tools. Plus, you only look at those books when your car throws mystery problems at you, like mine. We did replace the Distributor Coil, and it des start now where it wouldnt before.. nt it hesittes and I topped of the coolant, addeds Head Gasket sealer because i want my radiator flushed to and it did get hot, and now am where I am now. Just drove on highway, it will die at thelight if I do not gas it in Neutral, othersie it runs under throttle....)
*** It also started before the Coil was on immediately after being lowered from the Tow Truck. I hope that helps. Then it didnt start again until the Distributor Coil, then it overheated (???.) Now it runs as it does. Thanks. PS2: Never left parking lot when overheated, but we did keep at it and it stalled out itslef due to heat. Cooled back sown and started fine. Hence my Head Gasket radiator stuff, as a Precaution. Not sure if that happened, seems like not. Wasnt for long enough...
Thanks, I appreciate the LEGITIMATE answers. Thank You.
Im a Customer Service Representative that loves cars, not an ASE Master Mechanic.....I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
I would worry about your fuel filter before your pump. Your filter is probably so filled with debris that the fuel flow is restricted, even totally cutting off. Your theory on an intermittently working pump is possible, but I would only consider it after the filter is replaced.I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
Could be a clogged fuel filter. An electric fuel pump will just quit on you with no warning. If you can, get a mechanic to check your fuel pressure.
Could be a misfire, sensor, or (fingers crossed) the tranny. If I were you I would have the plugs checked, and the IACV checked out first. Good luck
It runs with hesitation. I am not sure why. I took the air filter -out,- because it was dirty. No real improvement. Still acts the same.
I wonder if my Fuel Pump is dying. If it was, how could I drive on the highway at 70MPH and 75MPH? It seem to have less power, it downshifted twice to get up a slight incline (4th to 3rd, then back into 4th and then back to 3rd to get up a slight incline at 70MPH, and it dipped to 65MPH... before all this started, it could handle 70 and accelerate to 75MPH Easy. -Sounds- like Fuel Delivery. Hence my main question.)
I even wonder is new Plugs will help me. Could it be they are not woing a good job anymore? They were cleaned....
All this happened so suddenly. Ther guy at the store said my issue may be the Idle COntrol Valve. It costs $75 and takes 2 screws to remove, and i put the sensor back on it, and thats it. I wil know if that helps any later. I also bought the Fuel Filter, and wil have it on this weel (probably.)
So my main question is about the Fuel Pump, if they can suddenly begin their swan song and restrict fuel as well, and also what a Throttle Position Switch is.
PS: I will also read the Chilton bok when I have found it. I founf I already know a lot of the diagnosing, but they also oversimplify and leave stuff out when telling how to do a repair, and i cant even change my own fuel filter. I know how to look at the arow, but I have no jack and tools. Plus, you only look at those books when your car throws mystery problems at you, like mine. We did replace the Distributor Coil, and it des start now where it wouldnt before.. nt it hesittes and I topped of the coolant, addeds Head Gasket sealer because i want my radiator flushed to and it did get hot, and now am where I am now. Just drove on highway, it will die at thelight if I do not gas it in Neutral, othersie it runs under throttle....)
*** It also started before the Coil was on immediately after being lowered from the Tow Truck. I hope that helps. Then it didnt start again until the Distributor Coil, then it overheated (???.) Now it runs as it does. Thanks. PS2: Never left parking lot when overheated, but we did keep at it and it stalled out itslef due to heat. Cooled back sown and started fine. Hence my Head Gasket radiator stuff, as a Precaution. Not sure if that happened, seems like not. Wasnt for long enough...
Thanks, I appreciate the LEGITIMATE answers. Thank You.
Im a Customer Service Representative that loves cars, not an ASE Master Mechanic.....I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
I would worry about your fuel filter before your pump. Your filter is probably so filled with debris that the fuel flow is restricted, even totally cutting off. Your theory on an intermittently working pump is possible, but I would only consider it after the filter is replaced.I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
Could be a clogged fuel filter. An electric fuel pump will just quit on you with no warning. If you can, get a mechanic to check your fuel pressure.
Could be a misfire, sensor, or (fingers crossed) the tranny. If I were you I would have the plugs checked, and the IACV checked out first. Good luck
Whats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
I replaced distributor, installed new plugs and wires, I am getting spark to plugs and fuel to carb--The car backfired then would not start it was a cold start I then replaced pick up coil, ignition module, cap, roter, plugs and wires. I marked distributor when I removed it and put it back in position. I have not checked timing, but it is getting fire from Dist. to plugs.--The car was running the day before, the next morning I went to start it to warm it up, it backfired in the carb and then would not start. How would the timing get off? I did not change any parts on the Dist. before the issue. What is the easiest method to get the #1 cylinder to top, motor is in car?--Firing order is 153624, timing is 6 degrees.
Whats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Well, I assume you got the wires on in the correct order (153624 clockwise rotation) and I also assum that the engine was not turned at all while the dist was out? but to be safe check...Number one is on the left bank of the engine from the driver seat. Remove number one plug and have a friend bump the key to spin the engine until compression is coming out of the plug hole. Turn the engine by hand now (socket on the crank bolt) until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the timing indicator. now check to see that the distributor rotor is pointing to where number one plug wire would be on the cap.
Now assuming that is all good, make sure all of the plugs are not gas soaked from getting flooded from all of the starting attempts.
Next I would look at the carb. I am not sure where you are living, but if it like here in thje northeast, the temps have dropped drastically recently, and the choke might be off, too tight. Take off the air cleaner cover, look at the choke flap, is it open or closed? if closed, hold it open and open the throttle, now release the throttle and then the choke flap, the flap should have stayed open as the fast idle cam should have dropped., now operate the throttle linkage, did the choke snap shut?
if if did good so far, stick your finger into the choke and see how springy the flap feels, if it is too tight the pull off will not be strong enough to pull it open enough while trying to start and you will flood.If the flap is too loose and not closing completely, you wont be rich enough to start in cold weather. now have somone crank the engine, as it starts, the pull off should open the choke flap slightly, too much and again too lean, not enough too rich, some pull offs are adjustable, some you have to tweek linkage. Same with the choke stat, some have screws holding them to the carb, most are riveted and will need to be drilled out to be able to adjust the choke stat.
I know this is a lot of info to try to digest, but there are so many things that it ';could be'; it is hard to capture it all here. I have 25 (+/-) year doing this, and at times I still get stumped.
Basically it boils down to fuel/air and spark, but there is also timing and compression and all of the fine tuning things like fuel air mixture too...good luck, I hope some or any of this helpsWhats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Have someone adjust your timing for you . Usually a mechanic will do it for free if you can get him to.
remove the spark plug #1 seal the hole with a piece of rack very tide to the hole, then give small action to the starter , and again, very small, the engine should move slowly, when that rack blows to the air, then you have the number one on the top. good luck.how to cope with a break up A deep purple duvet cover
Whats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Well, I assume you got the wires on in the correct order (153624 clockwise rotation) and I also assum that the engine was not turned at all while the dist was out? but to be safe check...Number one is on the left bank of the engine from the driver seat. Remove number one plug and have a friend bump the key to spin the engine until compression is coming out of the plug hole. Turn the engine by hand now (socket on the crank bolt) until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the timing indicator. now check to see that the distributor rotor is pointing to where number one plug wire would be on the cap.
Now assuming that is all good, make sure all of the plugs are not gas soaked from getting flooded from all of the starting attempts.
Next I would look at the carb. I am not sure where you are living, but if it like here in thje northeast, the temps have dropped drastically recently, and the choke might be off, too tight. Take off the air cleaner cover, look at the choke flap, is it open or closed? if closed, hold it open and open the throttle, now release the throttle and then the choke flap, the flap should have stayed open as the fast idle cam should have dropped., now operate the throttle linkage, did the choke snap shut?
if if did good so far, stick your finger into the choke and see how springy the flap feels, if it is too tight the pull off will not be strong enough to pull it open enough while trying to start and you will flood.If the flap is too loose and not closing completely, you wont be rich enough to start in cold weather. now have somone crank the engine, as it starts, the pull off should open the choke flap slightly, too much and again too lean, not enough too rich, some pull offs are adjustable, some you have to tweek linkage. Same with the choke stat, some have screws holding them to the carb, most are riveted and will need to be drilled out to be able to adjust the choke stat.
I know this is a lot of info to try to digest, but there are so many things that it ';could be'; it is hard to capture it all here. I have 25 (+/-) year doing this, and at times I still get stumped.
Basically it boils down to fuel/air and spark, but there is also timing and compression and all of the fine tuning things like fuel air mixture too...good luck, I hope some or any of this helpsWhats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Have someone adjust your timing for you . Usually a mechanic will do it for free if you can get him to.
remove the spark plug #1 seal the hole with a piece of rack very tide to the hole, then give small action to the starter , and again, very small, the engine should move slowly, when that rack blows to the air, then you have the number one on the top. good luck.
Excel help, need to update my product database?
so here is my situation.
I have a small business and I keep all my products on a database, about 1000-1200 products.
the distributor i order from sends out their excel sheet once a day with updated info {prices, descriptions, instock, etc.} but their data sheet has 20,000 + items on it.
if i have to buy software or an add-on that is fine, but here is my problem, i need to update my sheets by product name/UPC, NOT by row or column number.
lets say my upc is 123412341234, how would i have excel look at my sheet, and no matter what cell it is in, update the same row based off that upc. the column layout will never change, its the rows where the product is located that changes. so one day my upc 123412341234 might be row 5005, but next day it might be row 23, but it will always be COLUMN b, so how would i , or is there software that could recognize all of column B and say ';match upc in column B with upc in column C of distributor sheet'; and update all info in other columns of the same row accordingly';?
if this is confusing, try this.
product AAAA is 29.99, but distributor marked up priced to 39.99, so how do i update the price cell according to the product name?
thanksExcel help, need to update my product database?
Use the VLOOKUP function.
If column A on both sheets has the UPC numbers
Put this in B2 to look up the A2 UPC number within column A of the ';Distributor'; sheet and return the item from column B
=VLOOKUP($A2, 'Distributor'!A:G, 2, 0)
This will return column C for the lookup
=VLOOKUP($A2, 'Distributor'!A:G, 3, 0)
Excel: VLookup Function
http://www.techonthenet.com/excel/formul
I have a small business and I keep all my products on a database, about 1000-1200 products.
the distributor i order from sends out their excel sheet once a day with updated info {prices, descriptions, instock, etc.} but their data sheet has 20,000 + items on it.
if i have to buy software or an add-on that is fine, but here is my problem, i need to update my sheets by product name/UPC, NOT by row or column number.
lets say my upc is 123412341234, how would i have excel look at my sheet, and no matter what cell it is in, update the same row based off that upc. the column layout will never change, its the rows where the product is located that changes. so one day my upc 123412341234 might be row 5005, but next day it might be row 23, but it will always be COLUMN b, so how would i , or is there software that could recognize all of column B and say ';match upc in column B with upc in column C of distributor sheet'; and update all info in other columns of the same row accordingly';?
if this is confusing, try this.
product AAAA is 29.99, but distributor marked up priced to 39.99, so how do i update the price cell according to the product name?
thanksExcel help, need to update my product database?
Use the VLOOKUP function.
If column A on both sheets has the UPC numbers
Put this in B2 to look up the A2 UPC number within column A of the ';Distributor'; sheet and return the item from column B
=VLOOKUP($A2, 'Distributor'!A:G, 2, 0)
This will return column C for the lookup
=VLOOKUP($A2, 'Distributor'!A:G, 3, 0)
Excel: VLookup Function
http://www.techonthenet.com/excel/formul
Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
I know naturally its a pain to solve some problems on this car. But it cranks over just fine, just won't start. This is what I have tried (2.5L Sebring Conv, 2000)
I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.
Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)
I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.
I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.
I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.
I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)
SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.
I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.
I am not sure if this will help but heres a link to the all the wireing in the car.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/TrevHe
Just the ignition coil driver (PCM 11 was changed in year 1999-2000 car to PCM 4) Thats the only change I know of.
Hope this helps!
Tried almost everything and I am at a lost :(, Please help!';Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Sounds to me like YOU should be answering the questions of others. You've done a great deal to try and figure out the problem.
Try www.cartalk.com
Their forum is the best when stuff gets this complicated.Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Hook it up and scan it. A blk/rd wire is the key. Both spark and fuel drivers are PCM located, if the valve timing and grounds and power are present there may be something wrong with the cam, crank timing. A scanner is used first and mechanical inspections next.
I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.
Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)
I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.
I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.
I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.
I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)
SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.
I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.
I am not sure if this will help but heres a link to the all the wireing in the car.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/TrevHe
Just the ignition coil driver (PCM 11 was changed in year 1999-2000 car to PCM 4) Thats the only change I know of.
Hope this helps!
Tried almost everything and I am at a lost :(, Please help!';Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Sounds to me like YOU should be answering the questions of others. You've done a great deal to try and figure out the problem.
Try www.cartalk.com
Their forum is the best when stuff gets this complicated.Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Hook it up and scan it. A blk/rd wire is the key. Both spark and fuel drivers are PCM located, if the valve timing and grounds and power are present there may be something wrong with the cam, crank timing. A scanner is used first and mechanical inspections next.
Excel help for my business product management.!?
so here is my situation.
my small business keeps all my products on a database, about 1000-1200 products.
the distributor i order from sends out their excel sheet/product list once a day or more with updated info {prices, descriptions, instock, etc.} but their data sheet has 20,000 + items on it, which is way more then i have.
if i have to buy software or an add-on that is fine, just link or tell the general name of what i am looking for, but here is my problem, i need to update my sheets by product name/UPC, NOT by row or column number.
lets say my upc is 123412341234, how would i have excel look at my sheet, and no matter what cell it is in, update the same row based off that upc. the column layout will never change, its the rows where the product is located that changes. so one day my upc 123412341234 might be row 5005, but next day it might be row 23, but it will always be COLUMN b, so how would i , or is there software that could recognize all of column B and say ';match upc in column B with upc in column C of distributor sheet'; and update all info in other columns of the same row accordingly';?
if this is confusing, try this.
product AAAA is 29.99, but distributor marked up priced to 39.99, so how do i update the price cell according to the product name?
thanksExcel help for my business product management.!?
As I see it you have a couple options, you can use inventory management software such as netsuite or fishbowl for quickbooks. The other decent option is to use access or other database software that easily let's you search and sort by content.Excel help for my business product management.!?
Hire a really good guy with Excel, a really really good guy. I'm so confused I get the idea but can't practically connect it visually. I'm having problems of my own, and I'm Excel certified by Microsoft.
my small business keeps all my products on a database, about 1000-1200 products.
the distributor i order from sends out their excel sheet/product list once a day or more with updated info {prices, descriptions, instock, etc.} but their data sheet has 20,000 + items on it, which is way more then i have.
if i have to buy software or an add-on that is fine, just link or tell the general name of what i am looking for, but here is my problem, i need to update my sheets by product name/UPC, NOT by row or column number.
lets say my upc is 123412341234, how would i have excel look at my sheet, and no matter what cell it is in, update the same row based off that upc. the column layout will never change, its the rows where the product is located that changes. so one day my upc 123412341234 might be row 5005, but next day it might be row 23, but it will always be COLUMN b, so how would i , or is there software that could recognize all of column B and say ';match upc in column B with upc in column C of distributor sheet'; and update all info in other columns of the same row accordingly';?
if this is confusing, try this.
product AAAA is 29.99, but distributor marked up priced to 39.99, so how do i update the price cell according to the product name?
thanksExcel help for my business product management.!?
As I see it you have a couple options, you can use inventory management software such as netsuite or fishbowl for quickbooks. The other decent option is to use access or other database software that easily let's you search and sort by content.Excel help for my business product management.!?
Hire a really good guy with Excel, a really really good guy. I'm so confused I get the idea but can't practically connect it visually. I'm having problems of my own, and I'm Excel certified by Microsoft.
Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
i have found what will be my first car (in a junkyard now). it needs floor pans, some interior work, bondo, blocking, and paint but for the most part, it is worth the money. everything is straight and it only has surface rust. it also has the one year only 1300cc flat 4 VW engine. the great thing about these old VWs is that parts are abundant and cheap (those floor pans are only $220 and bolt in).
my question is, how do i get a 43 year old car, that sat for half its life, to run again. i already know that i am replacing and gaping plugs, raplacing gas, changing the motor oil, getting a new oil filter and cleaning out the carb (maybe a new distributor cap is also a good idea). but will i also need to replace fuel lines or other odds and ends like that? and will i also have to tear the engine down and rebuild it? i havent yet checked if the crank pulley turns or not. this car also has about 56,000 miles and change on the speedo.
thanks for any information.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
Oh, yes, you have to replace ALL the lines, just to be careful. An engine that sat for 20+ years? Yes, definitely tear down and rebuilt. Check all the suspension parts, and so on. old Beetles are simple, air cooled and all that, so at least you have no belts and hoses (much) to worry about. Count yourself lucky.
Consult a VW shop and maybe pay them $100-$150 to help you take a hard look at it.
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Kasey C, PC guru since Apple II days
C program run. C program crash. C programmer quit.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
you dont have to desmantle the engine normally if the engine has all its parts on exaust manifolds ,filters and spark plugs then dust and sand cant get in easy if ..the engine stayed all this time open then sand gets in it will ruin it when u start it..if not .. just check the oil also to see how much dirt it has in the engine..
just change all the parts (plugs,oil etc)... but first before you waste any money see if the crank pulley moves ....
i started one after 15 years all i did was put some gas in. but replace all hoses and the gas tank is gonna be full of rust just get a new one. the old fuel pump will need rebuilt due to the fiber gasket innards will shred under load they will be dry and hard. rebuild the brake system and you should be good from there
my question is, how do i get a 43 year old car, that sat for half its life, to run again. i already know that i am replacing and gaping plugs, raplacing gas, changing the motor oil, getting a new oil filter and cleaning out the carb (maybe a new distributor cap is also a good idea). but will i also need to replace fuel lines or other odds and ends like that? and will i also have to tear the engine down and rebuild it? i havent yet checked if the crank pulley turns or not. this car also has about 56,000 miles and change on the speedo.
thanks for any information.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
Oh, yes, you have to replace ALL the lines, just to be careful. An engine that sat for 20+ years? Yes, definitely tear down and rebuilt. Check all the suspension parts, and so on. old Beetles are simple, air cooled and all that, so at least you have no belts and hoses (much) to worry about. Count yourself lucky.
Consult a VW shop and maybe pay them $100-$150 to help you take a hard look at it.
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Kasey C, PC guru since Apple II days
C program run. C program crash. C programmer quit.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
you dont have to desmantle the engine normally if the engine has all its parts on exaust manifolds ,filters and spark plugs then dust and sand cant get in easy if ..the engine stayed all this time open then sand gets in it will ruin it when u start it..if not .. just check the oil also to see how much dirt it has in the engine..
just change all the parts (plugs,oil etc)... but first before you waste any money see if the crank pulley moves ....
i started one after 15 years all i did was put some gas in. but replace all hoses and the gas tank is gonna be full of rust just get a new one. the old fuel pump will need rebuilt due to the fiber gasket innards will shred under load they will be dry and hard. rebuild the brake system and you should be good from there
92 s10 Blazer 4x4 timing...? 262 vin code W?
I took my car in to Tunex today, although it seems that all they did was charge me $90 to change my spark plugs, I would like to verify they timed it correctly. I have a timing light (induction) and I have marked the guage to see it. My question is where do I disable the advance (EST bypass) Stupid haynes manual just states I should follow the tag under the hood, and the tag says to put the EST in bypass mode..... How would I do this. I tried disconnecting each (seperately) the plugs on the distributor, but it wouldnt start. It has 2 for the module, and one lower (dont know what that is, but it ran the same without it) Right now, it is idling at about 12 deg. BTDC, but the tag states it should be 0 (TDC)92 s10 Blazer 4x4 timing...? 262 vin code W?
There should be a tan wire with a black tracer (stripe) under the dash on the pass. side near the heater box. That will put the timing in bypass mode.92 s10 Blazer 4x4 timing...? 262 vin code W?
Look for a black/orange stripe wire. Unplug.
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There should be a tan wire with a black tracer (stripe) under the dash on the pass. side near the heater box. That will put the timing in bypass mode.92 s10 Blazer 4x4 timing...? 262 vin code W?
Look for a black/orange stripe wire. Unplug.
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How long until my transmission goes out?
I have a 2000 mitsubishi eclipse. I'm a mechanic and I specialize in Jaguar, Volvo and Land Rovers. I'm also ASE certified so don't mind using automotive terminology. I have been doing all my oil changes, with eueropean synthetic, and all the maintainance. The car has 135000 miles and has a techtronic 4 speed transmission. Can this car make it until 150000? or am I driving it on borrowed time? The transmission has Mobil one Synthetic transmission fluid (Yes I know Amsoil is better), and the car hard shifts into reverse. Im asking this to know if I should do the big maintainance and a engine overhaul (change all the seals, resurface the heads if I have to) spark plugs, timing belt, wires, distributor cap and all that. I dont wanna do it and have the tranny go out. So.... will it?How long until my transmission goes out?
My brother drove a 1997 Mercury Sable Wagon that he bought from his parents really cheap. He bought the car with the transmission going out and the check engine light on. He never had to fix anything for the 1.5 years he had the wagon. He drove it slow and went easy on the transmission and it lasted him the whole time before it got really bad. At first it would just slip here and there and shift hard. Then it would slip when he would turn. He got rid of it because he didn't want to out money into to to pass the e-check. Just go easy on the car and it should last a good while longer.
My brother drove a 1997 Mercury Sable Wagon that he bought from his parents really cheap. He bought the car with the transmission going out and the check engine light on. He never had to fix anything for the 1.5 years he had the wagon. He drove it slow and went easy on the transmission and it lasted him the whole time before it got really bad. At first it would just slip here and there and shift hard. Then it would slip when he would turn. He got rid of it because he didn't want to out money into to to pass the e-check. Just go easy on the car and it should last a good while longer.
Can someone give me an idea what could be wrong with my car?
I have a 1992 civic. D16z6. When i drive it, the car starts sputtering, and when it idles i'll give it gas it does the same thing. I took it somewhere to get fixed, and he said it was a bad fuel pressure regulator, so he fixed it with a used one. i drove it to florida from pennsylvania, drove it some more, then drove back. That's about 4000 miles, and now it's doing it again, so I bought a brand new fuel pressure regulator, and it's STILL doing it. I've changed the spark plug wires, (the plugs look fine) the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and distributor. I don't know what else it could be. The only thing i could think is i didn't change the cap and rotor, but idk....Any thoughts on how i can put this problem to an end?Can someone give me an idea what could be wrong with my car?
TRY CHANGING THE FUEL FILTERCan someone give me an idea what could be wrong with my car?
you forgot the fuel filter.
O2 sensor
Cap and rotor should have been changed with the distributor. Have you changed your fuel filter?
TRY CHANGING THE FUEL FILTERCan someone give me an idea what could be wrong with my car?
you forgot the fuel filter.
O2 sensor
Cap and rotor should have been changed with the distributor. Have you changed your fuel filter?
How to fix a fluctuating idle on a '94 Sentra? PLEASE HELP!!!!?
I have a 94 Sentra with a rough/fluctuating/inconsistent idle. It stated out that the car would shake and jerk and all kinds of funky stuff while it was under lite load, and progressed to the point where it would stall out when stopped at a light.
I have given it a full tune up including new plugs and wires, new distributor cap and rotor button, new fuel filter, cleaned out the air filter, oil change with Marvel's Mystery oil (in both tank and oil). I have replaced the clutch (pressure plate and throw out bearing). And I have thoroughly cleaned out the AAC valve, EGR valve, and PCV valve.
Each time I fix something it gets better and seems to be fixed for good, but the next time i start up, it's back the way it was. I am out of ideas and need help! I know this is a common problem with Sentras, but every suggestion I find leads me back to square 1. PLEASE HELP!!!How to fix a fluctuating idle on a '94 Sentra? PLEASE HELP!!!!?
You must replace the primary johnson rod couplings with a matrix alternator feed line.How to fix a fluctuating idle on a '94 Sentra? PLEASE HELP!!!!?
It could be poor compression in one of the cylinders. I'd take it to a Nissan dealership and get it diagnosed.
I have given it a full tune up including new plugs and wires, new distributor cap and rotor button, new fuel filter, cleaned out the air filter, oil change with Marvel's Mystery oil (in both tank and oil). I have replaced the clutch (pressure plate and throw out bearing). And I have thoroughly cleaned out the AAC valve, EGR valve, and PCV valve.
Each time I fix something it gets better and seems to be fixed for good, but the next time i start up, it's back the way it was. I am out of ideas and need help! I know this is a common problem with Sentras, but every suggestion I find leads me back to square 1. PLEASE HELP!!!How to fix a fluctuating idle on a '94 Sentra? PLEASE HELP!!!!?
You must replace the primary johnson rod couplings with a matrix alternator feed line.How to fix a fluctuating idle on a '94 Sentra? PLEASE HELP!!!!?
It could be poor compression in one of the cylinders. I'd take it to a Nissan dealership and get it diagnosed.
93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
I have read some of the responses here, and have replaced the ignition module, the coil, plugs, wires.
I purchased a pick-up coil, but how do i change it??? I can't get the old one out, to put the new one in!!
I hope I don't have to remove the distributor!
any help is appreciated
93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
You do have to pull the distributor,remove the drive gear and pull it apart.The wire breaking on the pick up coil is a common problem.Be brave,its not that bad!93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
You might want to check the wiring from the ignition switch to the coil and the other wires involved. It sounds like its not getting power to the coil or its not grounded well or at all.
I purchased a pick-up coil, but how do i change it??? I can't get the old one out, to put the new one in!!
I hope I don't have to remove the distributor!
any help is appreciated
93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
You do have to pull the distributor,remove the drive gear and pull it apart.The wire breaking on the pick up coil is a common problem.Be brave,its not that bad!93 chevy silverado..... no spark?
You might want to check the wiring from the ignition switch to the coil and the other wires involved. It sounds like its not getting power to the coil or its not grounded well or at all.
1965 Impala points need to be changed?
My buddy just got a 65 impala from a friend and the guy said that the points need to be changed. The guy had a tune up on it, wires, distributor cap, rotor button, plugs, and the car wants to turn over but just wont. Any ideas? And if it is the points how do we go about changing them? Also one of the back wheels will not turn, not sure why, they had to drag it onto a trailer. Possibly just needs to be cleaned with braked cleaner or something to loosen up the wheel because I think the car has been sitting for a pretty good time. Any suggestions?1965 Impala points need to be changed?
you can get to the points by taking off the dist cap vaccum advance module and the lower plate and take out the condenser (little round thing) and the points and gap them to the gap specified in a chiltons manual you can just look through the book at the part store to find the gap the rear tire locking up if it has the original or close to original brake pads the tire is locked because the brake pad has rusted to the rotor if it is drum brake than the brake shoe is rusted to the drum just repalace them and your prob will be fixed1965 Impala points need to be changed?
the points are inside the distributor and if they are not gaped to 30mm it won't start .but if you just had a tune up that would be part of it ,the back wheel is the emergency brake on.
wants to turn over or wants to start? the points are under the distributor cap and will need to be gapped when the cam on the shaft opens them. you do not have to remove all the stuff the other guy said to remove them. if it is trying to start it may just be that they are not set right, or have corrosion on the contacts which can be fixed by using an emery board( for nails) to kinda buff them up by sticking it in between them and lightly sanding them. the stuck wheel is a shoe sticking, as you have enough sense to make sure the ebrake is off. sometimes hammering around on the drum will free them up.phone bird
you can get to the points by taking off the dist cap vaccum advance module and the lower plate and take out the condenser (little round thing) and the points and gap them to the gap specified in a chiltons manual you can just look through the book at the part store to find the gap the rear tire locking up if it has the original or close to original brake pads the tire is locked because the brake pad has rusted to the rotor if it is drum brake than the brake shoe is rusted to the drum just repalace them and your prob will be fixed1965 Impala points need to be changed?
the points are inside the distributor and if they are not gaped to 30mm it won't start .but if you just had a tune up that would be part of it ,the back wheel is the emergency brake on.
wants to turn over or wants to start? the points are under the distributor cap and will need to be gapped when the cam on the shaft opens them. you do not have to remove all the stuff the other guy said to remove them. if it is trying to start it may just be that they are not set right, or have corrosion on the contacts which can be fixed by using an emery board( for nails) to kinda buff them up by sticking it in between them and lightly sanding them. the stuck wheel is a shoe sticking, as you have enough sense to make sure the ebrake is off. sometimes hammering around on the drum will free them up.
What could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?
I can't get the check engine light to go out. I've checked all the fuilds they are all good. I've put a new distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs. Then took it to a mechanic to change to oil because it smelt like gas they ran a diagnostic test on it and it came back says to change the ECM fuse which they did and then they ran it again and go a code 52 and they couldn't find what would cause that code. then after they put the ECM fuse in the car started to stall. they told us it could be something with the fuel pressure or something since my dad just put a new fuel pump in last weekend. so we took it home and checked the fuel pressure, pump and filter. there was nothing wrong with that.
does anyone have any ideas how to fix itWhat could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?
Believe it or not the check engine light can come on because of a bad fuel cap. I had this happen once.
9 times out of 10 the check engine light is on due to some sort of pollution control failure.
The second time mine come on i ran 2 tanks of super grade fuel and the light went out so you can try that also.
hope this helps
russWhat could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?
Yeah, try to snip that light. If it's running good and a mechanic can't find it. Might as well do something about that light
Put a good ODB1 scanner on it and check the dealer or GM website for vehicle specific coding. A good scanner will record all info and tell you what is causing the problem
does anyone have any ideas how to fix itWhat could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?
Believe it or not the check engine light can come on because of a bad fuel cap. I had this happen once.
9 times out of 10 the check engine light is on due to some sort of pollution control failure.
The second time mine come on i ran 2 tanks of super grade fuel and the light went out so you can try that also.
hope this helps
russWhat could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?
Yeah, try to snip that light. If it's running good and a mechanic can't find it. Might as well do something about that light
Put a good ODB1 scanner on it and check the dealer or GM website for vehicle specific coding. A good scanner will record all info and tell you what is causing the problem
TUNING UP A 1997 STS?
Hey there I have a 1997 cadillac sts 4.6L v8 32 north-star and my question is what is the best type of spark plugs and wires, with a somewhat of a tight budget, and a another question is i have noticed that there is not distributor, but it looks like a coil pack and does that needs to be changed as well, when i change the spark plugs and wires and how much does those coils are and thank you for your answersTUNING UP A 1997 STS?
The best most efficient plug will be able sustain the spark at the largest gap- giving more reliable fuel ignition! Bosh platinum make a good plug but I doubt it will make much difference unless you have a real high performance engine
With all cable its the same- the lower the resistance(ohms) the better the electricity will flow! what governs resistance is size of cable, amount of strands and materials used( its atomic number will tell you how many free electrons it has to conduct electricity- in relation to the bands on the atomic scale)! but most good quality cable are = and totally ok for the large amount of volts -will not change your engines performanceTUNING UP A 1997 STS?
Bosch platinums or Nipondenso Platinums work well for people with a budget. As for wires, the thicker the insulation the better they will perform. Standard wires are like 8mm. If you want something a little better try 8.5mm or even 9mm but the thicker you go the more expensive they are. As for the coil, I would not replace it. Coils either work or they don't work, they will not ';start'; to go out.
The best most efficient plug will be able sustain the spark at the largest gap- giving more reliable fuel ignition! Bosh platinum make a good plug but I doubt it will make much difference unless you have a real high performance engine
With all cable its the same- the lower the resistance(ohms) the better the electricity will flow! what governs resistance is size of cable, amount of strands and materials used( its atomic number will tell you how many free electrons it has to conduct electricity- in relation to the bands on the atomic scale)! but most good quality cable are = and totally ok for the large amount of volts -will not change your engines performanceTUNING UP A 1997 STS?
Bosch platinums or Nipondenso Platinums work well for people with a budget. As for wires, the thicker the insulation the better they will perform. Standard wires are like 8mm. If you want something a little better try 8.5mm or even 9mm but the thicker you go the more expensive they are. As for the coil, I would not replace it. Coils either work or they don't work, they will not ';start'; to go out.
Need Help Editing Samba?
I need help editing samba I am a newbe to Linux. Ubuntu is my distributor. I want to share files between a couple windows machines running xp and I want my Linux machine to be able to share printers and file between my windows machines. I can find and see the samba config file but i cant edit it. My xp computers can see the Linux machine but cant access it because it needs a user name and password. Thats why i want to be able to edit the config file for samba. Please I need step by step instructions on how to edit samba and change the config file so i can browse and write files to the linux computers.Need Help Editing Samba?
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1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
I am debating on changing my oxygen sensor in my 1990 dodge ram d150 5.2l. My engine stalls when I am idling in every position EXCEPT park. Park works great. It will not stall if I give it a steady stream of gas. My truck hates stop lights and stop signs.. haha...
Anyhow, how the heck do you change one? I've found it on the vehicle, and it looks like I'd have to drop parts of the exhaust system to do it. Any advice? I can't afford to take it to a shop. Should I bother with this?
Tomorrow I plan to check the :
rotor
distributor cap
catalytic converter clogged
compression check
new spark plugs
oxygen sensor
oil change
I was also told it might be the fuel pump, but I doubt it. I can hear the fuel pump working well. My fuel pump is in the tank, how hard would it be to replace that? What steps would be involved?
I've checked/replaced - air and fuel filters, pcv valve, checked for vacuum leaks, checked for correct firing order.
What should I do next?1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
it sounds to me like a sensor my guess would be the idol air sensor they are well known for that in lots of cars1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
i would remove the idle air control motor first and make sure the passageways are clean, you may also want to clean the throttle plates.
If fuel pump were failing your truck would most likely idle OK but would have a severe lack of power when trying to accelerate.
Failing catalytic converter can cause lack of power but would not affect idle in certain gears.
Tune up components (and oxygen sensor) could cause it to run rough but usually do not cause vehicle to die at idle.
I have seen on Dodge trucks (and dodge trucks only) where a bad battery can cause it not to idle but still provides power to crank and start and vehicle will keep running when on gas but usually die at idle no matter what gear. Check your idle air control motor and passageways first
Anyhow, how the heck do you change one? I've found it on the vehicle, and it looks like I'd have to drop parts of the exhaust system to do it. Any advice? I can't afford to take it to a shop. Should I bother with this?
Tomorrow I plan to check the :
rotor
distributor cap
catalytic converter clogged
compression check
new spark plugs
oxygen sensor
oil change
I was also told it might be the fuel pump, but I doubt it. I can hear the fuel pump working well. My fuel pump is in the tank, how hard would it be to replace that? What steps would be involved?
I've checked/replaced - air and fuel filters, pcv valve, checked for vacuum leaks, checked for correct firing order.
What should I do next?1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
it sounds to me like a sensor my guess would be the idol air sensor they are well known for that in lots of cars1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
i would remove the idle air control motor first and make sure the passageways are clean, you may also want to clean the throttle plates.
If fuel pump were failing your truck would most likely idle OK but would have a severe lack of power when trying to accelerate.
Failing catalytic converter can cause lack of power but would not affect idle in certain gears.
Tune up components (and oxygen sensor) could cause it to run rough but usually do not cause vehicle to die at idle.
I have seen on Dodge trucks (and dodge trucks only) where a bad battery can cause it not to idle but still provides power to crank and start and vehicle will keep running when on gas but usually die at idle no matter what gear. Check your idle air control motor and passageways first
Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
I have a 98 Jeep grand cherokee, and i noticed it hasnt been shifting very well anymore, usually has a delayed shift to it on 2nd and 3rd gear. I decited to run the car for awhile and check the transmission fluid and it was very low. So i filled it back up to the OK mark and it shifts fine now.
I brought the car to Advanced Auto parts and they checked the Jeep out and it has 3 Codes, 1 was for a speed sensor, the other was for the Ignition Coil. The 3rd was a code he couldnt tell what it was for and said only a Jeep dealership would know. He checked under the car and noticed the Transmission box was leaking fluid, It was coverd in fluid and dripping very slowely.
I just just had the transmission fluid changed like a month ago for $80 so i guess the moron i took it too didnt change the seal or the transmission filter. Do you guys think thats all it is as far as the small leak goes ? The seal just needs to be replaced ?
The auto parts guy showed me how to replace the ignition coil and distributor Box, which i did earlier today when i got home, and i changed the air filter. He also showed me how to drain the trannsmision fluid and take the box off and replace the seal and filter. It seems very easy to do, do you guys think thats the problem ?Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
You should be able to tell if the leak is from the pan by noticing where the wet spot starts or is centered. As you drive, the wind under the vehicle blows the leaked fluid around a bit, but it should still be located near whatever ';sealed'; opening is leaking.
The gasket is easy to change in the pan, just be careful not to overtighten. You should also snug the bolts and tighten them in a star pattern, much like tightening lug nuts. A torque wrench is a good idea.Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
id say it should fix it but id prolly look into it more u may also want to check the lines for any leaks
i bet what happened was they overfilled it and blew the front seal. you can tell by dropping the inspection plate and see if fluid is laying in it. if it,s the front seal then it,s not a easy task. if it,s a 4x4 you have to drop the transmission and transfer case to get to the seal. most vehicles today you have to drop the pan to drain it.
If your leak is around the transmission pan gasket installing a new gasket under the fluid pan will fix the leak.single beds cheapest web hosting
I brought the car to Advanced Auto parts and they checked the Jeep out and it has 3 Codes, 1 was for a speed sensor, the other was for the Ignition Coil. The 3rd was a code he couldnt tell what it was for and said only a Jeep dealership would know. He checked under the car and noticed the Transmission box was leaking fluid, It was coverd in fluid and dripping very slowely.
I just just had the transmission fluid changed like a month ago for $80 so i guess the moron i took it too didnt change the seal or the transmission filter. Do you guys think thats all it is as far as the small leak goes ? The seal just needs to be replaced ?
The auto parts guy showed me how to replace the ignition coil and distributor Box, which i did earlier today when i got home, and i changed the air filter. He also showed me how to drain the trannsmision fluid and take the box off and replace the seal and filter. It seems very easy to do, do you guys think thats the problem ?Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
You should be able to tell if the leak is from the pan by noticing where the wet spot starts or is centered. As you drive, the wind under the vehicle blows the leaked fluid around a bit, but it should still be located near whatever ';sealed'; opening is leaking.
The gasket is easy to change in the pan, just be careful not to overtighten. You should also snug the bolts and tighten them in a star pattern, much like tightening lug nuts. A torque wrench is a good idea.Leaking transmission, how do you fix this ?
id say it should fix it but id prolly look into it more u may also want to check the lines for any leaks
i bet what happened was they overfilled it and blew the front seal. you can tell by dropping the inspection plate and see if fluid is laying in it. if it,s the front seal then it,s not a easy task. if it,s a 4x4 you have to drop the transmission and transfer case to get to the seal. most vehicles today you have to drop the pan to drain it.
If your leak is around the transmission pan gasket installing a new gasket under the fluid pan will fix the leak.
Two mechanics and no luck?
First of all it is a 1995 camry with 79000 miles on it. It has always run fine until one day it just started to feel like the engine was missing around 45-50 mph and when you idle or reverse. So, we took it to a mechanic who said it was tune up work. The spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, distributor cap, fuel filter, air filter were all changed. We also ran fuel injector cleaner through the gas and replaced a broken tortion control mount. The problem persisted so we ended up having to take it to another mechanic who said I had a broken engine mount. So, he replaced that and balanced my tires. The problem still persisted, although it wasn't as bad it's still frustrating to spend this much money and have the same problem. So the question is what could be wrong with it and how can it be fixed? If so, how much would it cost? Thanks!Two mechanics and no luck?
look at the MAF there is a small wire that gets gunk build up and clean that little wire and viola!
look at the air tube and its usually 2 phillips screws near the air filter and a plug in of course. remove the screws and carefully pull the MAF and clean with light spray of electrical parts cleaner of MAF cleaner they have it at walmart in the auto section. DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRE! its very fine and easily damagedTwo mechanics and no luck?
it's probably nothing to do with the ignition system, try looking to see if you have any malfunctioning sensors, especially in the transmission, a broken speed sensor will cause the engine to buck or misfire at certian speeds. Since your car is OBD I equipped it may be harder to find some one to scan it.
Ignition coil could have a short in the secondary. When you need extra spark the energy isn't there.
Toyota uses speed / density to calculate air flow. You don't have a MAF.
Careful not to lock yourself in your car too. That would be a double wammie.
could be an air idle sensor,those mechanics ripped you off you didnt need a tune up.rotor??? you mean rotor as brakes? omg......good luck anyway.
I'm going to break a rule I've lived by all my life and recommend you take it to the dealer. They're probably better equipped to find the problem.
look at the MAF there is a small wire that gets gunk build up and clean that little wire and viola!
look at the air tube and its usually 2 phillips screws near the air filter and a plug in of course. remove the screws and carefully pull the MAF and clean with light spray of electrical parts cleaner of MAF cleaner they have it at walmart in the auto section. DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRE! its very fine and easily damagedTwo mechanics and no luck?
it's probably nothing to do with the ignition system, try looking to see if you have any malfunctioning sensors, especially in the transmission, a broken speed sensor will cause the engine to buck or misfire at certian speeds. Since your car is OBD I equipped it may be harder to find some one to scan it.
Ignition coil could have a short in the secondary. When you need extra spark the energy isn't there.
Toyota uses speed / density to calculate air flow. You don't have a MAF.
Careful not to lock yourself in your car too. That would be a double wammie.
could be an air idle sensor,those mechanics ripped you off you didnt need a tune up.rotor??? you mean rotor as brakes? omg......good luck anyway.
I'm going to break a rule I've lived by all my life and recommend you take it to the dealer. They're probably better equipped to find the problem.
A car engine question?
okay, let me start off by saying that about all i know about fixing cars is how to change the anti-freeze, the spark plugs, those wire going from the distributor cap to the spark plugs, the battery, and i could probably change the oil if i had a lift or something to get my car high enough off the ground and the tools to do it. i drive a 2000 honda accord, and i'm interested in maybe having work done to increase the compression ratio of my engine. for those of you who know, i was just wondering if, keeping my above skills in mind, i could maybe do that myself or if i should take my car to a shop and have the job done by someone with more experience.A car engine question?
Raising the compression ratio is a bit more complicated than it sounds. It requires reducing the overall volume of the compression chamber.
The two easiest ways to do it are ...
A: new pistons with a slight dome
B: machining the heads to reduce the chamber size from say 53cc to 46cc.
Keep in mind you have what we call an interference engine. So changing piston head profile or chamber deck height can cause alot of issues. I say your best bet would be to add an aftermartket turbo charger or supercharger.
Now as for the skill set you have, you may be alot better off having the work done for you. What you are wanting is no easy job and it will require ';tuning up'; the computer as well.A car engine question?
why raise the compression ratio? just get a turbo charger fitted
compression ratio is set by piston and bore size, what type of cam fitted, if you want to get more, not only will a professional need to do, but it will not be cheap, dont know if it would affect your insurance as well as woul no longer be stock model. if you want more power get a different car, tuned engines requie regular maintaince to run nice
with the skills that you progress it would be wise to take it to the shop.
In order to get better compression ratio you would have to take the engine out of the car, take it apart and have a machine shop bore out the cylinder walls. Then you would have to order new engine parts to raplace them with. if you have a good running car you would want to sell it and get something that wouldnt be as expensive to screw up.
You could do it but you would have to enjoy working on cars, study up ALOT, and know when your gettin advice from someone who knows what there talking about, and when your getting advice from a self-seeking nazi
mix a little rubbing alcohol in with the gas, it should increase the ratio, just be careful about how much you put in, it can hurt your engines performance
Raising the compression ratio is a bit more complicated than it sounds. It requires reducing the overall volume of the compression chamber.
The two easiest ways to do it are ...
A: new pistons with a slight dome
B: machining the heads to reduce the chamber size from say 53cc to 46cc.
Keep in mind you have what we call an interference engine. So changing piston head profile or chamber deck height can cause alot of issues. I say your best bet would be to add an aftermartket turbo charger or supercharger.
Now as for the skill set you have, you may be alot better off having the work done for you. What you are wanting is no easy job and it will require ';tuning up'; the computer as well.A car engine question?
why raise the compression ratio? just get a turbo charger fitted
compression ratio is set by piston and bore size, what type of cam fitted, if you want to get more, not only will a professional need to do, but it will not be cheap, dont know if it would affect your insurance as well as woul no longer be stock model. if you want more power get a different car, tuned engines requie regular maintaince to run nice
with the skills that you progress it would be wise to take it to the shop.
In order to get better compression ratio you would have to take the engine out of the car, take it apart and have a machine shop bore out the cylinder walls. Then you would have to order new engine parts to raplace them with. if you have a good running car you would want to sell it and get something that wouldnt be as expensive to screw up.
You could do it but you would have to enjoy working on cars, study up ALOT, and know when your gettin advice from someone who knows what there talking about, and when your getting advice from a self-seeking nazi
mix a little rubbing alcohol in with the gas, it should increase the ratio, just be careful about how much you put in, it can hurt your engines performance
94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
I need some help from someone who knows what they are talking about and please don't waste my time by telling me to junk the car. I am mechaniclly inclined but still need some help.
Issues with my car: hard to start in the mornings but starts fine the rest of the day, from a stop it has very poor acceleration and there is almost no response when i push the pedal to the floor at normal speed, it just slowly gains speed, and i have black smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe and I get less than 100 miles out of a 16 gallon tank. Also the front end of the car shakes around 20 to 25 and goes away around 30 mph.
Things I've done: new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, PCV valve, gas cap, oil change and filter, fuel filter, coolant flush, and thermostat. Cleaned throttle body, intake manifold, MAF, and linkage. Replaced transmission fluid, filter, and gasket. Replaced fuel injector o rings and fuel line o rings, and fuel regulator. Replaced about half of the air and vaccuum hoses, and several gasket on throttle body. I also pulled an EGR valve from a junked car of the same kind as mine and put it on mine.
What am I missing? Could it be one of the hoses leaking that I haven't replaced yet? Timing issue? Why am I running so rich?
If you have any suggestions that I can do myself please let me know and give me a break down of how to do it. Thanks for your help.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
First thing I would do is get the codes scanned. Either a mechanic or autozone, you need a code to give you direction. It could be a bad engine coolent sensor or a MAF sensor, cleaning it would solve a lean condition and you have a rich condition, or the pcm causing this. Egr wont do this unless it was stuck open, but then it wouldnt idle if it was. Get the codes then post back what they are and I can give you some better direction. Low fuel psi is not the issue with black smoke . Also a fuel psi check would be helpfull, should have 35 at idle and 40 when the pedal is goosed.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
blocked exhaust
bad mass air flow sensor
bad ect sensor
engine running too cold, need 190degree thermostat
low fuel pressure
How about the Oxygen sensors?
Issues with my car: hard to start in the mornings but starts fine the rest of the day, from a stop it has very poor acceleration and there is almost no response when i push the pedal to the floor at normal speed, it just slowly gains speed, and i have black smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe and I get less than 100 miles out of a 16 gallon tank. Also the front end of the car shakes around 20 to 25 and goes away around 30 mph.
Things I've done: new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, PCV valve, gas cap, oil change and filter, fuel filter, coolant flush, and thermostat. Cleaned throttle body, intake manifold, MAF, and linkage. Replaced transmission fluid, filter, and gasket. Replaced fuel injector o rings and fuel line o rings, and fuel regulator. Replaced about half of the air and vaccuum hoses, and several gasket on throttle body. I also pulled an EGR valve from a junked car of the same kind as mine and put it on mine.
What am I missing? Could it be one of the hoses leaking that I haven't replaced yet? Timing issue? Why am I running so rich?
If you have any suggestions that I can do myself please let me know and give me a break down of how to do it. Thanks for your help.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
First thing I would do is get the codes scanned. Either a mechanic or autozone, you need a code to give you direction. It could be a bad engine coolent sensor or a MAF sensor, cleaning it would solve a lean condition and you have a rich condition, or the pcm causing this. Egr wont do this unless it was stuck open, but then it wouldnt idle if it was. Get the codes then post back what they are and I can give you some better direction. Low fuel psi is not the issue with black smoke . Also a fuel psi check would be helpfull, should have 35 at idle and 40 when the pedal is goosed.94 Ford Taurus GL 3.0L V6 with some issues. Please help!?
blocked exhaust
bad mass air flow sensor
bad ect sensor
engine running too cold, need 190degree thermostat
low fuel pressure
How about the Oxygen sensors?
Need help With SAmba in Linux?
I need help editing samba I am a newbe to Linux. Ubuntu is my distributor. I want to share files between a couple windows machines running xp and I want my Linux machine to be able to share printers and file between my windows machines. I can find and see the samba config file but i cant edit it. My xp computers can see the Linux machine but cant access it because it needs a user name and password. Thats why i want to be able to edit the config file for samba. Please I need step by step instructions on how to edit samba and change the config file so i can browse and write files to the linux computers.Need help With SAmba in Linux?
The first thing you need to know is that to edit Samba's .conf file you'll need ';root'; privileges (similar to Administrator privileges in Windows). Unlike in Windows, where you'd have to sign in as the Administrator, Ubuntu doesn't let you sign into the ';root'; user. What you need to do is use something the ';sudo'; command, which will let you run programs as if you're the root user. To do this, open up a terminal window (like a command window in Windows) and type in the following:
sudo gedit /full-path-of-the-conf-file-you-want-to-?br>
and then hit enter. It will prompt you for a password, just enter your standard user password. Now, if you've entered the password correctly a text editor will open that will allow you to edit the conf file as you'd like. When you're finished, save and close as you normally would, which will take you back to the terminal window. Close the window, reboot the computer, and voila, it should work the way you want it to.
The first thing you need to know is that to edit Samba's .conf file you'll need ';root'; privileges (similar to Administrator privileges in Windows). Unlike in Windows, where you'd have to sign in as the Administrator, Ubuntu doesn't let you sign into the ';root'; user. What you need to do is use something the ';sudo'; command, which will let you run programs as if you're the root user. To do this, open up a terminal window (like a command window in Windows) and type in the following:
sudo gedit /full-path-of-the-conf-file-you-want-to-?br>
and then hit enter. It will prompt you for a password, just enter your standard user password. Now, if you've entered the password correctly a text editor will open that will allow you to edit the conf file as you'd like. When you're finished, save and close as you normally would, which will take you back to the terminal window. Close the window, reboot the computer, and voila, it should work the way you want it to.
Changing a valve cover gasket (2000 dodge stratus)?
How hard is it to change a valve cover gasket on a 3.0 doch. Its a stratus, I looked anb the distributor is up there does it come out too? please help cant afford $70. or $90. an hour need to do my self. I have some no how.Changing a valve cover gasket (2000 dodge stratus)?
im not familiar with this particular engine but you might have 2 disconnect a few cables or wires and of course the air filter housing. be very care full when taking the bolts out since everything is ALUMINIUM when you remove the cover this is the best time 2 really clean the top and inside of the cover. if the outside of the case is a little rusty take some fine sandpaper and remove the rust. take a scrapper and gently take off the oldgasket on the cover and on the surface on the engine. get a gasket if available and a tube of blue silicone. i always put silicone on the gasket that will keep the gasket in place. make sure all the bolt holes line up. put the top on and put put the bolts on in a criss cross system so the top will tighten evenly. do not overtighten or the bolts will snap. usually snug the bolts and then give them a 1/8th turn. put everything back and check 4 any leaks. check a few days later for leaks and if there is give the bolts another 1/8th turn. i hope this helps you good luck mike.Changing a valve cover gasket (2000 dodge stratus)?
it shouldn't be Very hard to replace it you might have to disconnect a few other parts, but it should be pretty easy to replace.There are probably only about 8 to 10 bolts holding the cover on. The only thing you really need to know when putting it back together is the torque specifications because if you do not get that right you could crack the cover, and it could leak.get a masters along with brown hair
im not familiar with this particular engine but you might have 2 disconnect a few cables or wires and of course the air filter housing. be very care full when taking the bolts out since everything is ALUMINIUM when you remove the cover this is the best time 2 really clean the top and inside of the cover. if the outside of the case is a little rusty take some fine sandpaper and remove the rust. take a scrapper and gently take off the oldgasket on the cover and on the surface on the engine. get a gasket if available and a tube of blue silicone. i always put silicone on the gasket that will keep the gasket in place. make sure all the bolt holes line up. put the top on and put put the bolts on in a criss cross system so the top will tighten evenly. do not overtighten or the bolts will snap. usually snug the bolts and then give them a 1/8th turn. put everything back and check 4 any leaks. check a few days later for leaks and if there is give the bolts another 1/8th turn. i hope this helps you good luck mike.Changing a valve cover gasket (2000 dodge stratus)?
it shouldn't be Very hard to replace it you might have to disconnect a few other parts, but it should be pretty easy to replace.There are probably only about 8 to 10 bolts holding the cover on. The only thing you really need to know when putting it back together is the torque specifications because if you do not get that right you could crack the cover, and it could leak.
How ignition leads can get broken?
recently (2 months ago) i replaced spark plug cables with a new supposedly oem part days ago i have noticed that 3 out of six are already faulty causing missfire , i prepare myself to change them again but i want to know what can be the cause.. spark plugs and distributor components are in good order leads are not damaged just loose resistance and cause visible in dark spark jump along the insulation..How ignition leads can get broken?
they could have been defective in construction (assembled by child labor) or road salt or not snapped on tight any case the part store should warranty them buy a better set i really don't trust auto zone / pep boys , auto parts on these partsHow ignition leads can get broken?
could have been old when you got them you dont know how long them been on rack waiting to be brought that or just didnt lay them out right an dheat got to them or they was just a cheap set of wires
sounds like poorly constructed wires. try not to lay them on the exhaust manifold.
You get what you pay for. Get some high performance wires, they are a lot better. I use them on everything, even my boat. They are made a lot better and worth the extra money. They will not go bad for a long time. When you install them be sure to keep them away from the exhaust.
If your sure the connectors snapped in properly, then I would try and exchange them at the store I bought them from. I actually have one set of plug wires that are gauranteed for the life of the vehicle. You can actually measure the resistance of each wire to make sure it's about right for that length of wire. Typically it's about 1,000 ohms per foot for resistance type wires. Use the Multimeter shown below from Sears. However, the wire could still be bad even if the resistance measures correctly.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_
Hop over to your dealer and get the right wires for your vehicle. As you know the originals went for many miles. I will not get into the after market scene or I might get bard from this site.
they could have been defective in construction (assembled by child labor) or road salt or not snapped on tight any case the part store should warranty them buy a better set i really don't trust auto zone / pep boys , auto parts on these partsHow ignition leads can get broken?
could have been old when you got them you dont know how long them been on rack waiting to be brought that or just didnt lay them out right an dheat got to them or they was just a cheap set of wires
sounds like poorly constructed wires. try not to lay them on the exhaust manifold.
You get what you pay for. Get some high performance wires, they are a lot better. I use them on everything, even my boat. They are made a lot better and worth the extra money. They will not go bad for a long time. When you install them be sure to keep them away from the exhaust.
If your sure the connectors snapped in properly, then I would try and exchange them at the store I bought them from. I actually have one set of plug wires that are gauranteed for the life of the vehicle. You can actually measure the resistance of each wire to make sure it's about right for that length of wire. Typically it's about 1,000 ohms per foot for resistance type wires. Use the Multimeter shown below from Sears. However, the wire could still be bad even if the resistance measures correctly.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_
Hop over to your dealer and get the right wires for your vehicle. As you know the originals went for many miles. I will not get into the after market scene or I might get bard from this site.
1995 Dodge Caravan Base 6 cyl. 3.0 ltr. engine timing problem?
Had an oil leak with valve cover and distributor adaptor (front cam). I have changed out the o-ring and 2 seals, valve cover gasket and plug, I marked the cam to head, distributor to adaptor, and rotor button to distributor before removing anything. I marked the spark plug wires to rotor cap. When replacing the camshaft gear the timing belt was moved. When I lined all my marks back up and torqued everything down, the engine will not crank. It turns over but does not engage. I have fire coming form coil wire. My brother -in - law came over and helped me turn the engine to top dead center and we placed the rotor button at firing order #1 plug. Still engine will turn over but will not engage (crank). My question is. How would I go about resetting both front and rear cams with engine set to top dead center. I believe when my ex was putting the timing belt back on, the rear camshaft was turned. So I need to get the engine back to top dead center and make sure the front and rear camshaft gears are in time as well. Please help. Cannot make heads or tails from my Haynes with this problem1995 Dodge Caravan Base 6 cyl. 3.0 ltr. engine timing problem?
try this web site they have a pic and a diagram of that engine for the timing specs,good luck, http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochu1995 Dodge Caravan Base 6 cyl. 3.0 ltr. engine timing problem?
your welcome,fun isn't the word to begin with now on it,if its got bent valves its going to be expensive to repair it,i hope its ok though,good luck.
go to dodge dealer [I know before you curse me...and them] the parts dept of dealers should NOT be lumped in with rest of hated operation,,,parts dept people are smarter and friendlier,,they will impart wisdom for free...
I know what you mean about haynes,,i prefer chilton but since they are now owned by same co they both such equally
try this web site they have a pic and a diagram of that engine for the timing specs,good luck, http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochu1995 Dodge Caravan Base 6 cyl. 3.0 ltr. engine timing problem?
your welcome,fun isn't the word to begin with now on it,if its got bent valves its going to be expensive to repair it,i hope its ok though,good luck.
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go to dodge dealer [I know before you curse me...and them] the parts dept of dealers should NOT be lumped in with rest of hated operation,,,parts dept people are smarter and friendlier,,they will impart wisdom for free...
I know what you mean about haynes,,i prefer chilton but since they are now owned by same co they both such equally
I need to reprogram my company name and fax number in my Canon CFX-L3500 IF Laser Multifunction System.?
I lost the book, so looked on the internet, and even called a distributor that Canon referred me to to see how to change the name and number that prints when I fax a document. I have had no luck. Does anyone out there have one of these and can tell me how to set up my new name and number?I need to reprogram my company name and fax number in my Canon CFX-L3500 IF Laser Multifunction System.?
Download a Manuel from www.canon.com
Download a Manuel from www.canon.com
'99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
I have been noticing that my jeep is having a drastic decline in fuel mileage. I was getting around 330-350 miles per tank. The last couple tanks I got 210!! I replaced my spark plugs, distributor cap, and spark plug wires. No discernible change. I have also noticed a loss in power and acceleration. Any ideas about what is going on or how to fix it?'99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
This happened to me last month. I dont know if this could be your problem but....
The last time i got my oil changed the oil they used was defective or something and the it turned into a sludge and went through the engine.
I had to put my car in the shop for 2 weeks.
bring it to the dealership'99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
i hate to sound dumb and say something so obvious but... check the air filter...
Fuel filter, fuel injector, air filter, tire pressure. Start there. Sometimes the computer needs to be reset. Take the battery cables off and leave them off for at least 30 minutes. Sometimes you need a new computer. Hope some of that works!
did you replace the fuel filter? If not try that and add a good injector cleaner to a full tank of fuel.
1. Change air filter
2. and gas filter.
Those are the 2 cheapest things that might help.
Either could cause the loss of power and acceleration--but the gas filter is the most likely cause of the 2 listed.
sounds like you might have a fuel system problem, try going under and replacing the pump and the lines
you might also be losing power due to a failing ignition box,
you're best off taking it down to a trusted auto shop and having them run a diagnostic test
This happened to me last month. I dont know if this could be your problem but....
The last time i got my oil changed the oil they used was defective or something and the it turned into a sludge and went through the engine.
I had to put my car in the shop for 2 weeks.
bring it to the dealership'99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
i hate to sound dumb and say something so obvious but... check the air filter...
Fuel filter, fuel injector, air filter, tire pressure. Start there. Sometimes the computer needs to be reset. Take the battery cables off and leave them off for at least 30 minutes. Sometimes you need a new computer. Hope some of that works!
did you replace the fuel filter? If not try that and add a good injector cleaner to a full tank of fuel.
1. Change air filter
2. and gas filter.
Those are the 2 cheapest things that might help.
Either could cause the loss of power and acceleration--but the gas filter is the most likely cause of the 2 listed.
sounds like you might have a fuel system problem, try going under and replacing the pump and the lines
you might also be losing power due to a failing ignition box,
you're best off taking it down to a trusted auto shop and having them run a diagnostic test
My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
This is my original question.....
I have a '92 Nissan Sentra 1.6L Manual Transmission. It has started to Idle really rough and drive rough as well while driving until it gets up to speed. I have put new spark plugs and wires, has a fresh oil change and everything. A friend of mine taught me how to check the spark plugs and listen for the change in pitch all but 1 changes and that is after the new wires and plugs. Checked to make sure everything was done right but still doing the same thing. Any ideas of what else?
So far I have a new distributor cap on it now, new rotor. No change. Still nothing in the one cylinder. Somebody also mentioned to check the compression in the cylinder. Now is that only something a mechanic can check with proper tools or is it easy to do.My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
Checking compression is easy, and your local parts place has the tool you need to do it. They aren't that expensive. It goes in place of the spark plug; you crank the engine a few times and see where the gauge tops out. It should be within about 10% of all the others; if it isn't you may need valves or rings.
But before you blow some money on that, try this: take out that one spark plug, shoot a teaspoon or so of oil into that cylinder, and put the plug back in. Fire it up. Did that fix it? If so, it's rings. And no, that ';fix'; won't last.My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
You can purchase the tool to check the compression in the cylinder.... it goes in place of the pasrk plug and can tell you whether t is good or not. You can find it at any auto parts store
this same thing happened to me on my truck im pretty sure that a couple of your injectrues are going bad in it
assuming you checked for spark at that plug, than check that your getting fuel to that cylinder.
When you do the compression check you must pull all plugs out and disable the ignition and fuel injection. Also make sure you have battery fully charged.
well when you changed the plugs were they all a nice light brown color or were they black with abuild up did you have any that were white did any have a build up across from the tip to the electrode? i ask because this would be what you check to help determine problems if any with your engine also did you change the air filter compression test=compression tester =autozone, three squirts oil crank over about 4 times write down repeat for all cylinders all readings should be within 75%of each other next get long screwdriver put handle against ear other end against injector listen to see if all working good luck
mostly could use a tuneup through a Nissan dealershipmusic myspace computer has become too slow
I have a '92 Nissan Sentra 1.6L Manual Transmission. It has started to Idle really rough and drive rough as well while driving until it gets up to speed. I have put new spark plugs and wires, has a fresh oil change and everything. A friend of mine taught me how to check the spark plugs and listen for the change in pitch all but 1 changes and that is after the new wires and plugs. Checked to make sure everything was done right but still doing the same thing. Any ideas of what else?
So far I have a new distributor cap on it now, new rotor. No change. Still nothing in the one cylinder. Somebody also mentioned to check the compression in the cylinder. Now is that only something a mechanic can check with proper tools or is it easy to do.My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
Checking compression is easy, and your local parts place has the tool you need to do it. They aren't that expensive. It goes in place of the spark plug; you crank the engine a few times and see where the gauge tops out. It should be within about 10% of all the others; if it isn't you may need valves or rings.
But before you blow some money on that, try this: take out that one spark plug, shoot a teaspoon or so of oil into that cylinder, and put the plug back in. Fire it up. Did that fix it? If so, it's rings. And no, that ';fix'; won't last.My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
You can purchase the tool to check the compression in the cylinder.... it goes in place of the pasrk plug and can tell you whether t is good or not. You can find it at any auto parts store
this same thing happened to me on my truck im pretty sure that a couple of your injectrues are going bad in it
assuming you checked for spark at that plug, than check that your getting fuel to that cylinder.
When you do the compression check you must pull all plugs out and disable the ignition and fuel injection. Also make sure you have battery fully charged.
well when you changed the plugs were they all a nice light brown color or were they black with abuild up did you have any that were white did any have a build up across from the tip to the electrode? i ask because this would be what you check to help determine problems if any with your engine also did you change the air filter compression test=compression tester =autozone, three squirts oil crank over about 4 times write down repeat for all cylinders all readings should be within 75%of each other next get long screwdriver put handle against ear other end against injector listen to see if all working good luck
mostly could use a tuneup through a Nissan dealership
How can i get my engine to start?
i have a 94 nissan altima GXE n i cant get it to start...i just changed brand new spark plugs,wires and distributor...the only way i can get it on is pumping the gas a couple times. then i turn it off and let sit there for few mins and then try to turn it back on again i wont do it until i pump the gas again. what could that be, if u have any idea pls let me know... thanksHow can i get my engine to start?
If you have to pump gas first before your car starts, then it is the fuel line or the filter that should be the culprit. Also, if the fuel line has some air to it (meaning some air leaked into the fuel line), you can remove the fuel line, then start the engine. Of course it will not start, but the onset of gas from your tank will push out the air in the line. When gas spurts, or leaks out, then put it back ( you reconnect the line), and that should go smoothly from there.
Happy motoring!How can i get my engine to start?
bad starter
Have you changed the gas filter? That happened to mine.
get your battery checked.
Does it make any noise when you attempt to start it?
Please refer to: http://www.renditionauto.com/Products.html
Don't take chances, certified auto mechanics are on standby to answer your automotive questions. Save time, effort and money!
If you have to pump gas first before your car starts, then it is the fuel line or the filter that should be the culprit. Also, if the fuel line has some air to it (meaning some air leaked into the fuel line), you can remove the fuel line, then start the engine. Of course it will not start, but the onset of gas from your tank will push out the air in the line. When gas spurts, or leaks out, then put it back ( you reconnect the line), and that should go smoothly from there.
Happy motoring!How can i get my engine to start?
bad starter
Have you changed the gas filter? That happened to mine.
get your battery checked.
Does it make any noise when you attempt to start it?
Please refer to: http://www.renditionauto.com/Products.html
Don't take chances, certified auto mechanics are on standby to answer your automotive questions. Save time, effort and money!
How do i find wholesale distributors for the top brands of motor oil?
my brother and i are thinking of starting up an oil changing business and we are trying to figure out where to find product sourcing. we don't want to be limited to just one brand like franchised lube centers. we want to get Mobil1, Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc.How do i find wholesale distributors for the top brands of motor oil?
Jiffy lube is owned by Shell and Shell owns Pennzoil. Hence why they have Pennzoil in bulk, they also have distributors for other brands of oil they buy in bulk like Castrol.
In order for you to buy in bulk and keep the costs down you will have to commit to carrying 1 brand of oil in the guns like citgo or valvoline. Most oil distributors have reps that will come out to your shop and offer you different prices and bonuses if you carry that oil.
There is no way you can order Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline all in bulk to lower the cost enough for you to make a nice profit. It just wouldn't make good business sense, thats why most companies like Jiffy Lube or Lube N Tune promote certain brands.
Stick to 1 major oil company in the bulk tanks where you will make a nice profit but take the hit on Mobil 1 and castrol by buying them by the case.
To find distributors in your area look in the yellow pages for companies with Oil in the title. You will need several distributors since not just 1 carries all brands.
Jiffy lube is owned by Shell and Shell owns Pennzoil. Hence why they have Pennzoil in bulk, they also have distributors for other brands of oil they buy in bulk like Castrol.
In order for you to buy in bulk and keep the costs down you will have to commit to carrying 1 brand of oil in the guns like citgo or valvoline. Most oil distributors have reps that will come out to your shop and offer you different prices and bonuses if you carry that oil.
There is no way you can order Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline all in bulk to lower the cost enough for you to make a nice profit. It just wouldn't make good business sense, thats why most companies like Jiffy Lube or Lube N Tune promote certain brands.
Stick to 1 major oil company in the bulk tanks where you will make a nice profit but take the hit on Mobil 1 and castrol by buying them by the case.
To find distributors in your area look in the yellow pages for companies with Oil in the title. You will need several distributors since not just 1 carries all brands.
Toyota 18-RC misfire problem.?
i recently changed carburetors from an 18rc engine that was going well onto my 18rc in my celica. i changed carburetors because my carburetor seemed to be flooding the engine, and eventualy i couldn't even start the engine.
after i changed carburetors over the engine started first go, and ran exellently. but the next day the engine was running rough. me and my dad put the timing light on it but the number one cylinder was misfiring. i changed the spark plug, spark leads and distributor cap. i checked the exaust for that cylinder for leaks but there wasn't any. i took it to a mechanic and he did a test to see if the valve was burnt out, but it wasn't that. then he said it was the cam and that it had a worn down lobe.
the question is how fast would a cam wear out so that a lobe was causing a misfire, because as i said before the engine was running good before my original carburetor deteriorated, and started misfiring after i changed carburetors. could the cam be causing this?Toyota 18-RC misfire problem.?
cams have a hardened surface on them if the surface is damaged it will wear quickly, but not over night. have you checked that nothing fell into the engine when you changed the carb? you can take the valve cover off and turn the engine over by hand and see if all the valves open about the same amount or any of the came lobes look different than the others.. good luckToyota 18-RC misfire problem.?
contact dealership
after i changed carburetors over the engine started first go, and ran exellently. but the next day the engine was running rough. me and my dad put the timing light on it but the number one cylinder was misfiring. i changed the spark plug, spark leads and distributor cap. i checked the exaust for that cylinder for leaks but there wasn't any. i took it to a mechanic and he did a test to see if the valve was burnt out, but it wasn't that. then he said it was the cam and that it had a worn down lobe.
the question is how fast would a cam wear out so that a lobe was causing a misfire, because as i said before the engine was running good before my original carburetor deteriorated, and started misfiring after i changed carburetors. could the cam be causing this?Toyota 18-RC misfire problem.?
cams have a hardened surface on them if the surface is damaged it will wear quickly, but not over night. have you checked that nothing fell into the engine when you changed the carb? you can take the valve cover off and turn the engine over by hand and see if all the valves open about the same amount or any of the came lobes look different than the others.. good luckToyota 18-RC misfire problem.?
contact dealership
86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
I've had this stanza for 2 years now. sometimes it starts, other times it won't. When it does start the rpms rise and drop, rise and drop, and when you push on the gas pedal it it starts to sputter and sometimes stalls. When you put it in park or neutral it acts more steady but then when you put it in drive, the rpm's drop and it acts like it wants to die.
I took it to a mechanic and he changed the spark plugs (all 8) and the distributor cap and rotor. it was better for a day or two but then it went down hill fast. The mechanic told me it was running rich in fuel. Does this seem right? another thing was interesting was when he would move the spark plug wires, sometimes the car would start to sputter. Does this seem like an electrical problem? Even when the spark plug wires aren't being moved the car acts up. Sometimes when starting the car it really smells like gas. What could be wrong with it and how much $?86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
it sounds like it may be running a little rich on gas,,but i think you need to find another mechanic and let him check it out also,,two opinions are better than one,,i can only guess ,bit id say it has a bad sensor on it,,but a good mechanic should be able to find it for you,,good luck,i hope this help,s.,,have a good x-,mas.86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
change the injectors
since its an older car, expect probelms to arrise
your solution lies with finding a good mechanic! do lots of research and hope you can find someone who is an expert on those cars
it sounds like a complex problem, not one that can have a good answer here. since its an older car, lots of parts need to be checked in order to come up with a resolution
have air idle motor checked and try a bottle of LUCAS fuel treatment
did he change the spark plug wires? is it worse when it`s damp.Try looking at the wires in the night time with the engine running I bet you will see spark jumping. the spark energy will take the path of least resistance
check the idle air control sensor,also it could be the throttle position sensor.try cleaning out the throttle body,it could be really dirty and cant breathe.
its a nissan stanza that's what's wrong with it
I took it to a mechanic and he changed the spark plugs (all 8) and the distributor cap and rotor. it was better for a day or two but then it went down hill fast. The mechanic told me it was running rich in fuel. Does this seem right? another thing was interesting was when he would move the spark plug wires, sometimes the car would start to sputter. Does this seem like an electrical problem? Even when the spark plug wires aren't being moved the car acts up. Sometimes when starting the car it really smells like gas. What could be wrong with it and how much $?86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
it sounds like it may be running a little rich on gas,,but i think you need to find another mechanic and let him check it out also,,two opinions are better than one,,i can only guess ,bit id say it has a bad sensor on it,,but a good mechanic should be able to find it for you,,good luck,i hope this help,s.,,have a good x-,mas.86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
change the injectors
since its an older car, expect probelms to arrise
your solution lies with finding a good mechanic! do lots of research and hope you can find someone who is an expert on those cars
it sounds like a complex problem, not one that can have a good answer here. since its an older car, lots of parts need to be checked in order to come up with a resolution
have air idle motor checked and try a bottle of LUCAS fuel treatment
did he change the spark plug wires? is it worse when it`s damp.Try looking at the wires in the night time with the engine running I bet you will see spark jumping. the spark energy will take the path of least resistance
check the idle air control sensor,also it could be the throttle position sensor.try cleaning out the throttle body,it could be really dirty and cant breathe.
its a nissan stanza that's what's wrong with it
Ok, let's be serious here. Who is ready for some serious change?
Whose ready for marijuana to be legalized? Let's be serious here and not take this as a joke. This isn't about whether ';Aw dude, I'm gonna blaze up so much when it's legalized';.
This is more than just smoking yourself to the verge of passing out.
No, this is a determinant of whether people can take care of themselves without government intervention. This is about economic implications.
I believe in individualism. I believe that people can make choices for themselves. I don't need the government to tell me what's right or what's wrong. There are certain things that are already explicitly wrong such as murder or rape.
What about the things one does to their own body? Should this be under the jurisdiction of the federal government?
As some of you may know, marijuana has already been decriminalized in several states and California is looking to legalize it to spur it's economy. If California legalizes marijuana, it can look at an extreme boost to it's economy. 2 years, boom, recession in California is done. Over. Caput. People can get back to work.
I believe that marijuana should be RElegalized for the following reasons.
- People should be able to make their own choices concerning themselves, the government should not tell people what is ';good'; or ';bad'; for them.
- In November, there has been a milestone. 20 million people have been arrested for marijuana possession since 1937. People who were in jail for minor drug offenses will be let free. More resources could be allocated to capturing real criminals. The amount of arrests have been ridiculously rising recently.
- Marijuana is a huge cash crop, actually the number one cash crop in front of corn. Many states like California, their economy will be spurred.
- The potential of paper. The Declaration of Independence was made from marijuana. Hemp. The stalk of the plant can be cut and formed into paper without bleaching or harmful chemicals. We also save more trees.
-Money from marijuana will go directly into the United States. By people who are buying marijuana, they support the Mexican drug cartels and the drug trade. They give them money. This money is in turn used to kill thousands of people in Mexico. You want to know how many Mexicans died last year from drug cartels? 5,612 people. Dead Mexicans because of the money we're giving them.
Mexico has a population of approximately 108,700,891 people. In 2008, 5,612 people, or 1 out of every 19,369 Mexicans, died in the drug war, meaning that the drug war is almost twice as deadly for Mexicans as illicit drugs are for US residents. Does this mean that a US resident’s life is nearly twice as valuable as that of a Mexican?
- Marijuana legalization could create new jobs. Growers, distributors, shippers, vendors, dispensaries, the list goes on.
- Marijuana has not caused a single death ever, while many people die from alcohol, nicotine, and pharmaceutical drug-related causes a year.
- The war on drugs has costs millions of dollars a year, millions of dollars going toward marijuana, and millions of dollars of OUR money!
Marijuana is not the gateway drug. The prohibition of marijuana is the reason why so many young people are introduced to a criminal society.
It is a fact that if marijuana was legalized usage would not rise. In fact in countries where marijuana is legal usage is around half of that in our own country.
Marijuana prohibition causes young people to have disrespect for the law. It is the cause for disrespect to the police.
Now, 872,000 americans will criminal records. They will have difficulty getting an education because of it. The saddest part of this is that like you read above, 1 out of 4 of these people are under age 18. 3 out of 4 are under ago 30.
I believe the actual prohibition of cannabis is the culprit here. If it was taxed and regulated such as alcohol, then the drug dealers would be out of a job. They don’t care who they sell to. As a matter of fact, I read where there is an estimated 1,000,000 high school student dealers in this country. Why? Kids aren’t dumb and they see that the “mark up” is in the 200-300 percent range while huge profit margins make it impossible to work at Burger King. Not to mention they also have a captive market, five days a week.
With all this being said, we have too much at stake here. The prohibition of weed far outweighs the good that can come from this. I don't care if you smoke weed. I don't care if you don't smoke or don't like people that do. This is not about that.
This is about change and how our country can stop wasting millions and start a new era of justice, liberty, freedom, anti-discrimination, and economic gain, simply by RElegalizing a plant that was available for centuries.
Chime in.Ok, let's be serious here. Who is ready for some serious change?
I agree, but as you can see from the answers you've received, we've got a long way to go to overcome 70 + years of reefer madness propaganda. Kills brain cells, causes cancer, etc, etc. All untrue, but people have been spoon fed the lies for generations. We've come closer in recent years to getting at the truth, but as you see, not everyone believes. After all, our government couldn't possibly have been wrong all this time. Or could they???Ok, let's be serious here. Who is ready for some serious change?
I'm good on that. I don't like when people smoke weed. I'm above the influence :D
I have a life, and I am not going to waste it reading THAT.
=]
i didn't read the whole thing...
but in my opinion I'd rather keep it illegal
you said marijuana 17 times :)
um
i agree with you
yes i am ready to answer the question
uhhh god
its a ******* drug, honestly.
It'd be another legal addiction, c'mon, man!
use yer head.
=]]
btw its the gateway drug
search tht term up kayzzz
im not really
You only want it legalized so that you can smoke it freely, without the added stress of being locked up.
Grow up and respect the law.
Put this in Society and culture
You'll get way more REAL answers..
I am NOT reading all that.
Sorry.
Sum it up :)
Honestly, lets think about the situation, weed is great, I wont deny it, but its not legal and i dont think that should change at all.
People use over the counter drugs to get high, and over the counter is legal, people still die from OTC overdoses, and misuse.
People still die from Pot, I dont think that there are many reasons that people need it, unless its for medical reasons.
Think about it, some people are not able to make aduquete descions, such as children and people with mental diaablities. If pot is legal, then minors have INSTANT acsess to it, and minors arent mature enough to be able to make that decesion.
And if people are in jail for having pot, then they may be smuggling other drugs also, this makes them true criminals.
I think that pot should be used for paper, but under VERY carful watch, you cant just go handing out pot.
And YES pot has Killed people, sometimes direcctly, sometimes through driving accidents or murder thats not aware.
Although when one is high they can control themselves to SOME extent, Pot can hurt people and not always directly.
But I dont think pot will ever get old, when you are addicted you just take more and more till it kills you.
And dont blame pot for people disrespect for the law, like YOU said, peoploe should be able to make their own decision to do right and WRONG.
I know that I WILL get thumbs down, but the pros of legalizing pot dont over power the negative things enogh to make it ok.
I know I don't smoke weed and never will so I'm not going to spend my time reading this. People who smoke are lammme and have no lives
sure, people havent died, but it kills brain cells. we need people to keep those brain cells. picture a potential doctor who could find the cure for cancer. if he starts smoking dope, it kills his brain cells. then he decides to keep smoking and NOT find a cure for cancer. God doesnt want us destroying our bodies. keep it illegal.
Ok first of all i dont smoke weed and people who do are ruining their lives and peoples around them and hopefully they will stay away frm ppl that dont smoke cause the crap is illegal and it will stay that way!!!
This is the most ridiculous question I've seen in a while. Do you want the number of cancer patients to rise? Idiot.
im ready for mary jane to be leagalized!! the drug rate would go down!!
why are all your questions so dang long...geez.how can i restadeletehedge how do i switch ink tape
This is more than just smoking yourself to the verge of passing out.
No, this is a determinant of whether people can take care of themselves without government intervention. This is about economic implications.
I believe in individualism. I believe that people can make choices for themselves. I don't need the government to tell me what's right or what's wrong. There are certain things that are already explicitly wrong such as murder or rape.
What about the things one does to their own body? Should this be under the jurisdiction of the federal government?
As some of you may know, marijuana has already been decriminalized in several states and California is looking to legalize it to spur it's economy. If California legalizes marijuana, it can look at an extreme boost to it's economy. 2 years, boom, recession in California is done. Over. Caput. People can get back to work.
I believe that marijuana should be RElegalized for the following reasons.
- People should be able to make their own choices concerning themselves, the government should not tell people what is ';good'; or ';bad'; for them.
- In November, there has been a milestone. 20 million people have been arrested for marijuana possession since 1937. People who were in jail for minor drug offenses will be let free. More resources could be allocated to capturing real criminals. The amount of arrests have been ridiculously rising recently.
- Marijuana is a huge cash crop, actually the number one cash crop in front of corn. Many states like California, their economy will be spurred.
- The potential of paper. The Declaration of Independence was made from marijuana. Hemp. The stalk of the plant can be cut and formed into paper without bleaching or harmful chemicals. We also save more trees.
-Money from marijuana will go directly into the United States. By people who are buying marijuana, they support the Mexican drug cartels and the drug trade. They give them money. This money is in turn used to kill thousands of people in Mexico. You want to know how many Mexicans died last year from drug cartels? 5,612 people. Dead Mexicans because of the money we're giving them.
Mexico has a population of approximately 108,700,891 people. In 2008, 5,612 people, or 1 out of every 19,369 Mexicans, died in the drug war, meaning that the drug war is almost twice as deadly for Mexicans as illicit drugs are for US residents. Does this mean that a US resident’s life is nearly twice as valuable as that of a Mexican?
- Marijuana legalization could create new jobs. Growers, distributors, shippers, vendors, dispensaries, the list goes on.
- Marijuana has not caused a single death ever, while many people die from alcohol, nicotine, and pharmaceutical drug-related causes a year.
- The war on drugs has costs millions of dollars a year, millions of dollars going toward marijuana, and millions of dollars of OUR money!
Marijuana is not the gateway drug. The prohibition of marijuana is the reason why so many young people are introduced to a criminal society.
It is a fact that if marijuana was legalized usage would not rise. In fact in countries where marijuana is legal usage is around half of that in our own country.
Marijuana prohibition causes young people to have disrespect for the law. It is the cause for disrespect to the police.
Now, 872,000 americans will criminal records. They will have difficulty getting an education because of it. The saddest part of this is that like you read above, 1 out of 4 of these people are under age 18. 3 out of 4 are under ago 30.
I believe the actual prohibition of cannabis is the culprit here. If it was taxed and regulated such as alcohol, then the drug dealers would be out of a job. They don’t care who they sell to. As a matter of fact, I read where there is an estimated 1,000,000 high school student dealers in this country. Why? Kids aren’t dumb and they see that the “mark up” is in the 200-300 percent range while huge profit margins make it impossible to work at Burger King. Not to mention they also have a captive market, five days a week.
With all this being said, we have too much at stake here. The prohibition of weed far outweighs the good that can come from this. I don't care if you smoke weed. I don't care if you don't smoke or don't like people that do. This is not about that.
This is about change and how our country can stop wasting millions and start a new era of justice, liberty, freedom, anti-discrimination, and economic gain, simply by RElegalizing a plant that was available for centuries.
Chime in.Ok, let's be serious here. Who is ready for some serious change?
I agree, but as you can see from the answers you've received, we've got a long way to go to overcome 70 + years of reefer madness propaganda. Kills brain cells, causes cancer, etc, etc. All untrue, but people have been spoon fed the lies for generations. We've come closer in recent years to getting at the truth, but as you see, not everyone believes. After all, our government couldn't possibly have been wrong all this time. Or could they???Ok, let's be serious here. Who is ready for some serious change?
I'm good on that. I don't like when people smoke weed. I'm above the influence :D
I have a life, and I am not going to waste it reading THAT.
=]
i didn't read the whole thing...
but in my opinion I'd rather keep it illegal
you said marijuana 17 times :)
um
i agree with you
yes i am ready to answer the question
uhhh god
its a ******* drug, honestly.
It'd be another legal addiction, c'mon, man!
use yer head.
=]]
btw its the gateway drug
search tht term up kayzzz
im not really
You only want it legalized so that you can smoke it freely, without the added stress of being locked up.
Grow up and respect the law.
Put this in Society and culture
You'll get way more REAL answers..
I am NOT reading all that.
Sorry.
Sum it up :)
Honestly, lets think about the situation, weed is great, I wont deny it, but its not legal and i dont think that should change at all.
People use over the counter drugs to get high, and over the counter is legal, people still die from OTC overdoses, and misuse.
People still die from Pot, I dont think that there are many reasons that people need it, unless its for medical reasons.
Think about it, some people are not able to make aduquete descions, such as children and people with mental diaablities. If pot is legal, then minors have INSTANT acsess to it, and minors arent mature enough to be able to make that decesion.
And if people are in jail for having pot, then they may be smuggling other drugs also, this makes them true criminals.
I think that pot should be used for paper, but under VERY carful watch, you cant just go handing out pot.
And YES pot has Killed people, sometimes direcctly, sometimes through driving accidents or murder thats not aware.
Although when one is high they can control themselves to SOME extent, Pot can hurt people and not always directly.
But I dont think pot will ever get old, when you are addicted you just take more and more till it kills you.
And dont blame pot for people disrespect for the law, like YOU said, peoploe should be able to make their own decision to do right and WRONG.
I know that I WILL get thumbs down, but the pros of legalizing pot dont over power the negative things enogh to make it ok.
I know I don't smoke weed and never will so I'm not going to spend my time reading this. People who smoke are lammme and have no lives
sure, people havent died, but it kills brain cells. we need people to keep those brain cells. picture a potential doctor who could find the cure for cancer. if he starts smoking dope, it kills his brain cells. then he decides to keep smoking and NOT find a cure for cancer. God doesnt want us destroying our bodies. keep it illegal.
Ok first of all i dont smoke weed and people who do are ruining their lives and peoples around them and hopefully they will stay away frm ppl that dont smoke cause the crap is illegal and it will stay that way!!!
This is the most ridiculous question I've seen in a while. Do you want the number of cancer patients to rise? Idiot.
im ready for mary jane to be leagalized!! the drug rate would go down!!
why are all your questions so dang long...geez.
My 75' ford will not start, I think the distributor might be bad how can I be sure?
I have a charged battery, I just changed the ignition module and I seem to be getting fire through the coil wire, but none to the plugs, so I am tring to find why.My 75' ford will not start, I think the distributor might be bad how can I be sure?
Did you check the alternator?My 75' ford will not start, I think the distributor might be bad how can I be sure?
inspect the wires for what looks like lightning shaped marks on them. Check the ends and and clean them with a wire brush. if it is stuttering after you did all that you described then its probably the wires or the cap.
If the coil wire is showing fire ....then you need to check either rooter or may be distributor cap....
is the rotor in the distributor or the cap cracked
Could be a bad pick-up coil or even a bad distributor cap or rotor. I doubt if the distributor itself is bad, although it could be.
You could of picked up a bad ignition module. Take it back and try the new one first.
If you have spark at the coil wire and not at the plugs, you have either a bad coil wire, or a shorted rotor.
A weak coil wire will not let enough power through to get through the distributor, and a shorted rotor will send the spark through the centre of the rotor and short to the rotor mount.
I would replace the rotor and then the coil wire.
If the distributor cap is bad. you will see a black line down the side of the cap. Replace it if there are any black lines.
Good luck
check if u are getting spark to the distributor if not the coil is bad if u do check if your have spark to the first nipple thing o the distributor if not u need a new cap or hole distributor if u have spark their check the wire is spark check plug if that is all good the problem might be fuel not spark
Ford What ? American like a Maverick, Mustang, Pinto or Elite or LTD II etc?
If you have such a car with the ';electronic Ignition of the time'; I'd be checking the supply voltage to the ignition module. The ignition module runs on 6 volts and yet the car initially runs and fires on 12 volts. (thus your kind of -sort of start) In order to get the battery voltage cut in half and down to 6 volts . Ford used a resister wire and others used a ball est resistor to cut the voltage down.
Find a good service manual to identify your wire and it will probably have you take resistance and voltage readings of the resister wire by sticking a (sewing needle) needle in the wire. Ford used to offer replacement ';core wires'; but probably desn't today. They last one I was able to get from Ford was for a SHAY a 1980 Model A ford replica with modern underpinnings. (Pinto with reto model A Body. )
Modern replacement modules might be a better idea they look and function like the old ones but are designed better and eliminate the need for that resistor wire.
If you do decide to replace the resister wire its a job as it s 'lost' in the normal wiring harness and has to be ';picked out'; and it ends up inside the car on the ignition switch on the bottom of the steering column.
The Idea behind this was the low voltage in the system was great for signaling the High enery coil to work it was much better than the old point systems it replaced. You have the High energy side to the ignitation the plugs and plug wires and the low voltage side it simply is the signal for the other to operate.
get a repair guy they alway WORK! lol
Did you check the alternator?My 75' ford will not start, I think the distributor might be bad how can I be sure?
inspect the wires for what looks like lightning shaped marks on them. Check the ends and and clean them with a wire brush. if it is stuttering after you did all that you described then its probably the wires or the cap.
If the coil wire is showing fire ....then you need to check either rooter or may be distributor cap....
is the rotor in the distributor or the cap cracked
Could be a bad pick-up coil or even a bad distributor cap or rotor. I doubt if the distributor itself is bad, although it could be.
You could of picked up a bad ignition module. Take it back and try the new one first.
If you have spark at the coil wire and not at the plugs, you have either a bad coil wire, or a shorted rotor.
A weak coil wire will not let enough power through to get through the distributor, and a shorted rotor will send the spark through the centre of the rotor and short to the rotor mount.
I would replace the rotor and then the coil wire.
If the distributor cap is bad. you will see a black line down the side of the cap. Replace it if there are any black lines.
Good luck
check if u are getting spark to the distributor if not the coil is bad if u do check if your have spark to the first nipple thing o the distributor if not u need a new cap or hole distributor if u have spark their check the wire is spark check plug if that is all good the problem might be fuel not spark
Ford What ? American like a Maverick, Mustang, Pinto or Elite or LTD II etc?
If you have such a car with the ';electronic Ignition of the time'; I'd be checking the supply voltage to the ignition module. The ignition module runs on 6 volts and yet the car initially runs and fires on 12 volts. (thus your kind of -sort of start) In order to get the battery voltage cut in half and down to 6 volts . Ford used a resister wire and others used a ball est resistor to cut the voltage down.
Find a good service manual to identify your wire and it will probably have you take resistance and voltage readings of the resister wire by sticking a (sewing needle) needle in the wire. Ford used to offer replacement ';core wires'; but probably desn't today. They last one I was able to get from Ford was for a SHAY a 1980 Model A ford replica with modern underpinnings. (Pinto with reto model A Body. )
Modern replacement modules might be a better idea they look and function like the old ones but are designed better and eliminate the need for that resistor wire.
If you do decide to replace the resister wire its a job as it s 'lost' in the normal wiring harness and has to be ';picked out'; and it ends up inside the car on the ignition switch on the bottom of the steering column.
The Idea behind this was the low voltage in the system was great for signaling the High enery coil to work it was much better than the old point systems it replaced. You have the High energy side to the ignitation the plugs and plug wires and the low voltage side it simply is the signal for the other to operate.
get a repair guy they alway WORK! lol
My citroen ax has started to cut out when I slow down. It starts again but then loses revs. Can anyone advis
what I need to do. I have had it serviced so all filters and sparks have been changed. I have had the AA out who said it was my distributor and rotar arm which have now also been changed, however the thing is still doing it. I initially thought it was a fuel injection problem, but I don't know how to deal. It drives well and then starts to kangaroo a bit. When I stop at traffic lights it loses all revs and cuts out. It starts again straight away.My citroen ax has started to cut out when I slow down. It starts again but then loses revs. Can anyone advis
my suggestion is that if it cuts off when coming to a stop and starts right up.....Idle air control valve. when coming to a stop engine sits at idle while not having fuel applied, so iacv takes over and keeps car running. most often the throttle chamber has a build up of carbon that broke free, got lodged in iacv and caused it to fail. is your check engine light on? feel free to email me, i will ask some questions, and possibly provide a more complete answer.My citroen ax has started to cut out when I slow down. It starts again but then loses revs. Can anyone advis
sounds like the alternator may be on its way out
There is a bit of muck in the carburettor.
Good luck
Get in the car start it up and warm it up rev it good and hard for 10 minutes look under the hood make sure everything is nice and secure. close the hood .Get back in the car and make sure to put on a seat belt because you shouldn't be driving without wearing it. It's just the safe thing to do. Than drive it around till your almost out of gas then find the nearest junk yard and drop it off. you might even get a few bucks for it. lol
start with the easier things ,,like air filter ,fuel filter and work towards the more difficult things
good luck
You will have a idle adjustment screw just next to the carburetter (not sure where it is on the injected models, but there will be one). It is a screw with a spring around it. Get your car hot, i.e run your engine for 5 mins (keep your foot on the accelerater if it keeps cutting out). Once hot just turn the screw a quarter turn at a time. You will hear the engine speed increase. When it has stopped 'hunting' and the revs are stable you should be fine. You will probably notice the revs drop slightly when you have the electrics on like the heater and lights which is why you are having trouble.
A lot of cars have these problems in the winter and this is the easiest way to fix it.
my suggestion is that if it cuts off when coming to a stop and starts right up.....Idle air control valve. when coming to a stop engine sits at idle while not having fuel applied, so iacv takes over and keeps car running. most often the throttle chamber has a build up of carbon that broke free, got lodged in iacv and caused it to fail. is your check engine light on? feel free to email me, i will ask some questions, and possibly provide a more complete answer.My citroen ax has started to cut out when I slow down. It starts again but then loses revs. Can anyone advis
sounds like the alternator may be on its way out
There is a bit of muck in the carburettor.
Good luck
Get in the car start it up and warm it up rev it good and hard for 10 minutes look under the hood make sure everything is nice and secure. close the hood .Get back in the car and make sure to put on a seat belt because you shouldn't be driving without wearing it. It's just the safe thing to do. Than drive it around till your almost out of gas then find the nearest junk yard and drop it off. you might even get a few bucks for it. lol
start with the easier things ,,like air filter ,fuel filter and work towards the more difficult things
good luck
You will have a idle adjustment screw just next to the carburetter (not sure where it is on the injected models, but there will be one). It is a screw with a spring around it. Get your car hot, i.e run your engine for 5 mins (keep your foot on the accelerater if it keeps cutting out). Once hot just turn the screw a quarter turn at a time. You will hear the engine speed increase. When it has stopped 'hunting' and the revs are stable you should be fine. You will probably notice the revs drop slightly when you have the electrics on like the heater and lights which is why you are having trouble.
A lot of cars have these problems in the winter and this is the easiest way to fix it.
How much does it cost for..............?
How much does it cost to get a oil change and oil filter change and one tune up consisting of changing whatever is aplicable in you car like spark plugs spark plug wires distributor cap distibutor rotor air filter and fuel filterHow much does it cost for..............?
Well that depends if you do it or if you pay someone else.
If you do it, it'll cost about 100 dollars for the oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires. '; may be more because spark plug wires can get expensive';
If you pay someone else to do it... its going to be over 300 dollars for labor and parts. Mechanics rate is now 90/hr. so good luck using them!...How much does it cost for..............?
You have to tell us what kind of car you have before we can answer.
It depends in what car you have, but if you what a full tune up it will cost you around 120-150 also it depends in what oil you what and spark plugs.
id say between 100-125
Well that depends if you do it or if you pay someone else.
If you do it, it'll cost about 100 dollars for the oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires. '; may be more because spark plug wires can get expensive';
If you pay someone else to do it... its going to be over 300 dollars for labor and parts. Mechanics rate is now 90/hr. so good luck using them!...How much does it cost for..............?
You have to tell us what kind of car you have before we can answer.
It depends in what car you have, but if you what a full tune up it will cost you around 120-150 also it depends in what oil you what and spark plugs.
id say between 100-125
What car services should I get for my car?
My jeep has 90,000 miles and I haven't really thought about maintenance til now. I get regular oil changes but that's about it. I was thinking about the following: tire rotation and balance, tune up, battery check, brakes? I don't recall that we have ever gotten any of those done and we got it used at 60,000 miles. Also, how do you know when you buy the tire rotation if they do a balance and alignment as well - are those both good to get / needed? What's important during a tune up? I have a coupon and it says it does: install new spark plug ; visually inspect ignition wires, distributor cap/rotor, filters and more ; set timing/adjust idle (if applicable) but I'm scared that if something is wrong they wouldn't fix it cuz they would charge extra since it just says visibly inspectWhat car services should I get for my car?
Have them check the oil filter, PCV valve, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, and everything that should be replaced every so many miles. The fluids might need to be changed so make sure to get that checked too.What car services should I get for my car?
A tire rotation does not include an alignment...You need to set up an alignment and get your tires rotated at that time...and yes this is something that is good to have done from time to time. For a tune up you might need new spark plugs and wires...and have your timing checked....you might need a new air filter...That's right...they get you in for a tune up...plugs, wires, etc....and then hopefully they will get additional business by having other things that you need to have done. I wouldn't take my car anywhere unless you know someone that has used them with success...Good luck. I would just take it to someone that I could trust and pay for an inspection and go from there.
how could you forget the transmission oil change.i used to work at brake check before they found out i was giving discounts to pretty faces and family members and when they mean visually inspect thats what they do and tell you if they need to be replaced or not.balance and tire rotation you can tell if your tires are marked with white chalk and they have weights on the rim of the tire.as for alignment thats a diffrent step.
Have them check the oil filter, PCV valve, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, and everything that should be replaced every so many miles. The fluids might need to be changed so make sure to get that checked too.What car services should I get for my car?
A tire rotation does not include an alignment...You need to set up an alignment and get your tires rotated at that time...and yes this is something that is good to have done from time to time. For a tune up you might need new spark plugs and wires...and have your timing checked....you might need a new air filter...That's right...they get you in for a tune up...plugs, wires, etc....and then hopefully they will get additional business by having other things that you need to have done. I wouldn't take my car anywhere unless you know someone that has used them with success...Good luck. I would just take it to someone that I could trust and pay for an inspection and go from there.
how could you forget the transmission oil change.i used to work at brake check before they found out i was giving discounts to pretty faces and family members and when they mean visually inspect thats what they do and tell you if they need to be replaced or not.balance and tire rotation you can tell if your tires are marked with white chalk and they have weights on the rim of the tire.as for alignment thats a diffrent step.
How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 litre?
First of all, I'm not a mechanic. Know just enough to be dangerous and don't mind admitting it. #4 cylinder in my daughters car was dead (no difference in rpm's when you remove plug wire). Decided I was going to take off the valve cover and check the valves and rockers. #4 seemed to have alot of play in the rockers. When I went to get the tools, a friend who was helping bumped the ignition and changed the cylinder position. I didn't look and loosened the rockers to adjust. Anyway, car would not start again. Adjusted back to where I thought they had been originally and got it to start, but dies or almost dies when you put it in gear. What is the spacing on the rockers when they are open? Any ideas why cylinder would be dead? New plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Even tried turning distributor to advance/retard. Still nothing. Just want to get it to where it's driveable again without dying if you stop. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 litre?
Ok first thing you need is a compression test in #4 if its below
100 it could be the valves are to tight,so If I remember right that has a overhead cam.take the cover off tap the ign,so the lobe is pointed up on #4 cylinder.You need two thickness gauges one for the intake valve and one for the exhaust.The intake will be somewhere around .010 if you look at the intake manifold where it goes against the head that will be the intake valve,the other will be the exhaust valve and the exhaust manifold will go up against the head where that lobe is.The adjustment of that one will be about .014 with the engine hot,so if the engine is cold reduce the setting .002,so the intake would be like .008 and the exhaust .012
now if you do a compression test and its 0-60 you may have burned valve.email me for more information lplysocr@aol.comHow do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 litre?
This was asked and responded to 10 minutes before this posting. BR549 gave a very good answer.shy girl needs advice web hosting sites
Ok first thing you need is a compression test in #4 if its below
100 it could be the valves are to tight,so If I remember right that has a overhead cam.take the cover off tap the ign,so the lobe is pointed up on #4 cylinder.You need two thickness gauges one for the intake valve and one for the exhaust.The intake will be somewhere around .010 if you look at the intake manifold where it goes against the head that will be the intake valve,the other will be the exhaust valve and the exhaust manifold will go up against the head where that lobe is.The adjustment of that one will be about .014 with the engine hot,so if the engine is cold reduce the setting .002,so the intake would be like .008 and the exhaust .012
now if you do a compression test and its 0-60 you may have burned valve.email me for more information lplysocr@aol.comHow do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 litre?
This was asked and responded to 10 minutes before this posting. BR549 gave a very good answer.
Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ?
Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ? Sparkplugs, Rotor, Distributor Cap, Sparkplug Wires and Oil change.Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ?
All modern cars self tune as you drive them. So you just replace parts that wear out. You got most the items of the tune up. Here's some more:
(1) spark plugs
(2) spark plug wires
(3) distributors, coil, rotors (if you have them).
(4) new air filter
(5) PCV
(6) correct tire pressure
(7) clear the trunk of useless heavy items
(8) spray clean MAF sensor.
==
The only thing you have to be careful is the spark plug - torque spec. Make sure it is NOT too tight NOR too loose.
http://www.wikihow.com/Change-Spark-Plug
http://www.ehow.com/video_110_replace-sp
http://www.ehow.com/how_1874_tune-car.ht
Good Luck....Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ?
Go to an auto parts store and get a Hanes manual. They have them for any modle of vehicle you can think of. Ive got one for every vehicle i own. They cover everything from tuning a vehicle up to rebuilding the engine. they are very handy with pictures and instructions on everything engine,electrical, body, drivetrain, maintence, etc. Around here they cost about $20. Any parts store will have them like Advance Auto, Autozone. Good luck and enjoy your Chevy.
Your vehicle maintenance schedule can be found in your car's owner manual. As memory serves, there is no cap and rotor to mess with, as they went with coilpacks. Cobolts were advertised to have 100,000 mile maintenance intervals, so more than likely, you will not need to change the plugs, wires, or coilpacks at this time. Oil changes, well, best basic rule on that is 3 months, 3000 miles between changes. Good luck.
All modern cars self tune as you drive them. So you just replace parts that wear out. You got most the items of the tune up. Here's some more:
(1) spark plugs
(2) spark plug wires
(3) distributors, coil, rotors (if you have them).
(4) new air filter
(5) PCV
(6) correct tire pressure
(7) clear the trunk of useless heavy items
(8) spray clean MAF sensor.
==
The only thing you have to be careful is the spark plug - torque spec. Make sure it is NOT too tight NOR too loose.
http://www.wikihow.com/Change-Spark-Plug
http://www.ehow.com/video_110_replace-sp
http://www.ehow.com/how_1874_tune-car.ht
Good Luck....Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ?
Go to an auto parts store and get a Hanes manual. They have them for any modle of vehicle you can think of. Ive got one for every vehicle i own. They cover everything from tuning a vehicle up to rebuilding the engine. they are very handy with pictures and instructions on everything engine,electrical, body, drivetrain, maintence, etc. Around here they cost about $20. Any parts store will have them like Advance Auto, Autozone. Good luck and enjoy your Chevy.
Your vehicle maintenance schedule can be found in your car's owner manual. As memory serves, there is no cap and rotor to mess with, as they went with coilpacks. Cobolts were advertised to have 100,000 mile maintenance intervals, so more than likely, you will not need to change the plugs, wires, or coilpacks at this time. Oil changes, well, best basic rule on that is 3 months, 3000 miles between changes. Good luck.
I have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?
My question isnt how it got there. It went through the rings, the gas was poured in the carb to prime the fuel pump. my fuel pump is good, my carb is good. Also It flooded it because i have a highrise intake and big carb also have a cam etc, and used the old spark plugs to attempt to test the engine. To much gas, not enough spark, flooded it. The thing is, is that i never managed to start it although i turned it over a good bit, i was wanting to know how likely it is that my bearings and or rings are messed up? thats the question.... Im praying that new spark plugs and an oil/filter change fixes the problem, im also planning to buy a high performance distributor/coil/cap. Please .let me know what you think. Thanks alot. K.C.I have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?
diablo you need to do a compression test to see if the rings are all good. a tester should run around 25 dollars or so more for better quality type. then you have the motor cranked 5 vevelutions each cylinder , writing the numbers you get. the variation should be less than 15 lbs or so any that read drasticly different should be rechecked and then noted. much lower would be blown rings. ps you dont prime a fuel pump pouring fuel into an engine thats just priming the cylinders.
www.mycarandineedhelp.com its free and its meI have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?
Just cleaned everything Drain and run a air hose in the oil plug%26gt; with oil fill off it will dry out the gas%26gt; Fill and run%26gt;
Don't go completely off my source because im just a garage mechanic with no schooling, but i wouldn't think the rings and bearings would go bad, the only thing i know of that causes that is substances such as metal shavings from old parts, ect. getting in between the bearings and scraping them up.
I would replace the rings to be safe, i doubt it hurt them but id rather be safe than sorry.
probably washed down the rings not a big problem you will have to crank it until compression comes up without feeding it anymore fuel crank it a few times to get oil back into the rings make sure you are up on number one on the compression stroke if you have spark it should fire and run bad for a while then get better set timing
diablo you need to do a compression test to see if the rings are all good. a tester should run around 25 dollars or so more for better quality type. then you have the motor cranked 5 vevelutions each cylinder , writing the numbers you get. the variation should be less than 15 lbs or so any that read drasticly different should be rechecked and then noted. much lower would be blown rings. ps you dont prime a fuel pump pouring fuel into an engine thats just priming the cylinders.
www.mycarandineedhelp.com its free and its meI have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?
Just cleaned everything Drain and run a air hose in the oil plug%26gt; with oil fill off it will dry out the gas%26gt; Fill and run%26gt;
Don't go completely off my source because im just a garage mechanic with no schooling, but i wouldn't think the rings and bearings would go bad, the only thing i know of that causes that is substances such as metal shavings from old parts, ect. getting in between the bearings and scraping them up.
I would replace the rings to be safe, i doubt it hurt them but id rather be safe than sorry.
probably washed down the rings not a big problem you will have to crank it until compression comes up without feeding it anymore fuel crank it a few times to get oil back into the rings make sure you are up on number one on the compression stroke if you have spark it should fire and run bad for a while then get better set timing
Can old spark plug wires that lose insulation properties and spark between each other cause engine power loss?
I installed a new engine, and used the same spark plug wires, not knowing how old they were. I changed my oil at 500 miles, and noticed lately that there was a severe loss of power. I saw sparking between the wires and towards the nearest ground. I figure this is because they're old. Before I go to the Parts store, is there anything else that might cause this loss of power, or is this the likely cause. Timing is perfect, all sensors are new, check engine light not on. Distributor making contact. EGR seems a little noisy, but not enough to cause a problem like this. Also, when injectors were bad, check engine light came on before, so I don't think this is a possibility. Any thoughts?Can old spark plug wires that lose insulation properties and spark between each other cause engine power loss?
very much so. you will have dead cylinders (misses) in the engine. you will smell the unburned fuel as it gets worseCan old spark plug wires that lose insulation properties and spark between each other cause engine power loss?
Yes, they begin to jump sparks into each other and other metal they contact I would definitely change the plugs and the wires. you will be surprised at the difference.
yep major powerloss and missing fire
YES the sparks you saw mean no spark inside the cylinder so you are wasting alot of gas-at 2.50 per gallon you can easily afford GOOD wires
very much so. you will have dead cylinders (misses) in the engine. you will smell the unburned fuel as it gets worseCan old spark plug wires that lose insulation properties and spark between each other cause engine power loss?
Yes, they begin to jump sparks into each other and other metal they contact I would definitely change the plugs and the wires. you will be surprised at the difference.
yep major powerloss and missing fire
YES the sparks you saw mean no spark inside the cylinder so you are wasting alot of gas-at 2.50 per gallon you can easily afford GOOD wires
305 tbi on an older 350 motor??
I just put an 81 350 in my 89 chevy truck that had TBI. I put the TBI on the 350 with an edelbrock in take and a adaptor plate to put the TBI on the 4 barrel in take. right now everything is hooked up except the O2 sensor and it starts fine and idles but if you give it some gas or just start to go it runs like crap. almost dies. but if I give it full throttle it runs pretty strong. but when you get up to speed and the rpms drop down it runs like crap again. I keep adjusting the distributor but it doesn't change anything except the idle. I'm tired of putting money into this and I really don't want to go threw the process of changing it to a carb. and having to buy a fuel regulator that will work with a return line. How can I get this to run good with out dropping to much money???305 tbi on an older 350 motor??
The problem is that your 81 intake manifold is a dual plane design and those two little fuel injectors cant send the fuel down all of the intake planes equally. IF IT IS NOT caused by a massive vacuum leak or plugged fuel filter. You need another manifold (I ve never seen one to covert an old carb engine to throttle body but if it exists www.jegs.com will have it or can get it) ONE LAST THOUGHT check your map sensor and make sure its getting proper vacuum305 tbi on an older 350 motor??
Your EGR valve is bad, I would say that your spark plugs are fouling out too. And the motor is loading up on gas and the fumes burn your eyes and the exhaust is blowing black as soot, am I right......than your EGR valve is bad! Let me guess when you turn the distributor until it runs smooth you don't have any power and the motor coughs and sputters when you give it gas,and when you trun it back the other way you have power but the motor runs rough!
The original TBI intake manifold should bolt right on the older engine. the manifolds didn't change till they went to the vortec engine. It should work. You do need the oxygen sensor though. that can be causing alot of your problems. I would start with that and if that don't help put the TBI intake on it. And also you need to set your timing with a timing light. They are critical on timing.
check vacumn leaks under tbi wrong intake ?
when you bought edelbrock manifold did it have instructions on where to put o2 senors ? as this sensior controls inject system most times o2 sensor is in exhaust manifold or pipe before cat if wires left unpluged computor can not tell inject and ign timing what to do so if you use headers on left side there should be pipe plug thread for o2 sensor useing restor is not a good cure as sensor resistance changes as load on engine changes exhaust temp not shure if old intake manifold will work as it set up for 2 plane tbi use plumemm chamber intake i think if your state emissions will let you go carb engine and distrib get trans shop to make trans shift with out computor but if not you need intake from tbi engine and distrib i have never tried useing older engine to tbi i most times go other way late model engine to early car but let me know if you need more info
The problem is that your 81 intake manifold is a dual plane design and those two little fuel injectors cant send the fuel down all of the intake planes equally. IF IT IS NOT caused by a massive vacuum leak or plugged fuel filter. You need another manifold (I ve never seen one to covert an old carb engine to throttle body but if it exists www.jegs.com will have it or can get it) ONE LAST THOUGHT check your map sensor and make sure its getting proper vacuum305 tbi on an older 350 motor??
Your EGR valve is bad, I would say that your spark plugs are fouling out too. And the motor is loading up on gas and the fumes burn your eyes and the exhaust is blowing black as soot, am I right......than your EGR valve is bad! Let me guess when you turn the distributor until it runs smooth you don't have any power and the motor coughs and sputters when you give it gas,and when you trun it back the other way you have power but the motor runs rough!
The original TBI intake manifold should bolt right on the older engine. the manifolds didn't change till they went to the vortec engine. It should work. You do need the oxygen sensor though. that can be causing alot of your problems. I would start with that and if that don't help put the TBI intake on it. And also you need to set your timing with a timing light. They are critical on timing.
check vacumn leaks under tbi wrong intake ?
when you bought edelbrock manifold did it have instructions on where to put o2 senors ? as this sensior controls inject system most times o2 sensor is in exhaust manifold or pipe before cat if wires left unpluged computor can not tell inject and ign timing what to do so if you use headers on left side there should be pipe plug thread for o2 sensor useing restor is not a good cure as sensor resistance changes as load on engine changes exhaust temp not shure if old intake manifold will work as it set up for 2 plane tbi use plumemm chamber intake i think if your state emissions will let you go carb engine and distrib get trans shop to make trans shift with out computor but if not you need intake from tbi engine and distrib i have never tried useing older engine to tbi i most times go other way late model engine to early car but let me know if you need more info
I have a 88 accord and when i bought car had electrical tape holding on a piece off of distributor, fell off?
i just got a 88 accord carberated 4 cyl. i noticed tape holding on a part to where distributor cap is. it has 2 hoses off end and when it fell off when i changed plugs still ran. well driving home must have come loose call now wont idle. it goes into 2-3' opening on side of dist. cap and has a little dipstick on end, what is it? should dip stick be side to side in hole, trying to put back on but am lost anyone know what it is, how to fix and cost?I have a 88 accord and when i bought car had electrical tape holding on a piece off of distributor, fell off?
What your describing sounds like the vacuum control for timing advance-thats not a dip stick it's a broken lever. get it fixedI have a 88 accord and when i bought car had electrical tape holding on a piece off of distributor, fell off?
I agree with Mike, either replace it yourself with a new one or go to a mechanic. I can guarantee your car is gonna stop running if you don't. Look at it realistically, that was probably an original part, the car got 20+ years out of it, pretty cheap it you average it out.of computer rental find my old friends
What your describing sounds like the vacuum control for timing advance-thats not a dip stick it's a broken lever. get it fixedI have a 88 accord and when i bought car had electrical tape holding on a piece off of distributor, fell off?
I agree with Mike, either replace it yourself with a new one or go to a mechanic. I can guarantee your car is gonna stop running if you don't. Look at it realistically, that was probably an original part, the car got 20+ years out of it, pretty cheap it you average it out.
Math question need help with how to set it up?
Sugar Spectral is a company that manufactures Halloween candy. It has two candy factories, Factory A and Factory
B, and two distributors for its product, Distributor 1 and Distributor 2. In September Distributor 1 needs 8,000
pounds of candy and Distributor 2 needs 7,000 pounds. Factory A has 10,000 pounds ready to ship and Factory B
11,000 pounds. Shipping costs per pound from factories to distributors are given below.
Distributor 1 Distributor 2
Factory A $1.00 $0.60
Factory B $1.20 $0.70
a) How much candy should Sugar Spectrals ship from each factory to each distributor if shipping costs are to be
kept to a minimum?
b) Suppose the price of shipping from Factory A to Distributor 1 doubles. How does this change the optimal
solution?Math question need help with how to set it up?
You've got 4 quantities:
A1, A2, B1, B2 representing amount from each factory to each distributor.
We'll figure the costs in units of per 100 lbs.
to get rid of the decimals.
Total cost is:
a1 * 100 + a2 * 60 + b1 * 120 + b2 * 70
and
a1 + b1 = 80
a2 + b2 = 70
Also
a1 + a2 %26lt; 100
b1 + b2 %26lt; 110
Cost now is
100 a1 + 60 a2 + 120 (80 - a1) + 70 (70 - a2)
100 a1 + 60 a2 + 9600 - 120 a1 + 4900 - 70 a2
-20 a1 -10 a2 + 14500 is the cost
a1 + a2 = 100
So make a1 80 (most D1 can handle), a2 20 (the rest of A),
b1 0, and b2 50
Cost is then
14500 - 80* 20 - 20 * 10 = 14500 - 1600 - 200 = 12700, as follows:
Returning to the original numbers:
8000 * 1.00 + 2000 * 0.60 + 0 * 1.20 + 5000 * 0.70 =
8000 + 1200 + 3500 = 12700.
If the cost from A -%26gt; D1 doubles, that of course changes everything:
Now we have
A: 2.00 0.60
B: 1.20 0.70
Now B has an advantage of 80c/lb over A to D1
and A has an advantage of 10c/lb over B to D2.
That makes it even more obvious what to do.
We ship all we can on those two routes, and the shipments need not be split.
8000 B -%26gt; D1 (cost $9600)
7000 A -%26gt; D2 (cost $4200)
Total $13800.
Going through the calculation to check:
Cost = a1 * 200 + a2 * 60 + b1 * 120 + b2 * 70
a1 + b1 = 80
a2 + b2 = 70
200 a1 + 60 a2 + 120 (80 - a1) + 70 (70 - a2)
80 a1 - 10 a2 + 9600 + 4900
80a1 - 10 a2 + 14500
To minimize that, it's clear that we should make a1 to be 0,
since it has a positive coefficient, and a2 = 70 (or 7000 lbs).
Cost then is 14500 - 10 * 70 = 14500 - 700 = 13800.
.
B, and two distributors for its product, Distributor 1 and Distributor 2. In September Distributor 1 needs 8,000
pounds of candy and Distributor 2 needs 7,000 pounds. Factory A has 10,000 pounds ready to ship and Factory B
11,000 pounds. Shipping costs per pound from factories to distributors are given below.
Distributor 1 Distributor 2
Factory A $1.00 $0.60
Factory B $1.20 $0.70
a) How much candy should Sugar Spectrals ship from each factory to each distributor if shipping costs are to be
kept to a minimum?
b) Suppose the price of shipping from Factory A to Distributor 1 doubles. How does this change the optimal
solution?Math question need help with how to set it up?
You've got 4 quantities:
A1, A2, B1, B2 representing amount from each factory to each distributor.
We'll figure the costs in units of per 100 lbs.
to get rid of the decimals.
Total cost is:
a1 * 100 + a2 * 60 + b1 * 120 + b2 * 70
and
a1 + b1 = 80
a2 + b2 = 70
Also
a1 + a2 %26lt; 100
b1 + b2 %26lt; 110
Cost now is
100 a1 + 60 a2 + 120 (80 - a1) + 70 (70 - a2)
100 a1 + 60 a2 + 9600 - 120 a1 + 4900 - 70 a2
-20 a1 -10 a2 + 14500 is the cost
a1 + a2 = 100
So make a1 80 (most D1 can handle), a2 20 (the rest of A),
b1 0, and b2 50
Cost is then
14500 - 80* 20 - 20 * 10 = 14500 - 1600 - 200 = 12700, as follows:
Returning to the original numbers:
8000 * 1.00 + 2000 * 0.60 + 0 * 1.20 + 5000 * 0.70 =
8000 + 1200 + 3500 = 12700.
If the cost from A -%26gt; D1 doubles, that of course changes everything:
Now we have
A: 2.00 0.60
B: 1.20 0.70
Now B has an advantage of 80c/lb over A to D1
and A has an advantage of 10c/lb over B to D2.
That makes it even more obvious what to do.
We ship all we can on those two routes, and the shipments need not be split.
8000 B -%26gt; D1 (cost $9600)
7000 A -%26gt; D2 (cost $4200)
Total $13800.
Going through the calculation to check:
Cost = a1 * 200 + a2 * 60 + b1 * 120 + b2 * 70
a1 + b1 = 80
a2 + b2 = 70
200 a1 + 60 a2 + 120 (80 - a1) + 70 (70 - a2)
80 a1 - 10 a2 + 9600 + 4900
80a1 - 10 a2 + 14500
To minimize that, it's clear that we should make a1 to be 0,
since it has a positive coefficient, and a2 = 70 (or 7000 lbs).
Cost then is 14500 - 10 * 70 = 14500 - 700 = 13800.
.
How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 lire?
First off, I'm not a mechanic. Know just enough to be dangerous and don't mind admitting it. #4 cylinder in my daughters car was dead (pull plug wire and makes no difference in the rpms). Decided I was going to take off the valve cover and check the valves and rockers. I thought they had alot of play in them, more than the others. While I was getting the tools out, a friend bumped the ignition and changed location of the valves. I adjusted it like whenIi checked the first time. Car would not start. Adjusted back to where I tyhought they had been. Got it to start again, but either dies or almost dies when you put it in gear. What is the spacing on the rockers when the cylinder is open? Any ideas why the cylinder could be dead? New plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Tried turning distributor also. No difference. But need to get it back to where it can be driven at least. Any info on the valves would be appreciated. Thanks.How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 lire?
Intake 0.008 in
Exhaust 0.010 in
This is with the piston in the firing position, rockers off the cam lobe.
It is highly unlikely that the lash adjustment has anything to do with the cylinder not firing (dead cylinder). It is possible that having no lash would cause it, but that is not apt to occurr on it's own. It is possible that you now have the valves set ';too tight';.
I would suspect the real problem to be a burnt exhaust valve assuming of course there was spark at the wire, and the plug is good. Swap plugs, and wires with #3 cylinder. If miss is still on #4, and there is valve lash, do a compression test. I bet it will be low.How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 lire?
I see you also turned the distributor. Now you also need a timing lite to set the timing. You can't jjust guess at where it was .Did you check to see if spark plug was actually firing ?? You must turn the engine until the piston is at top dead center. This is when the valve you are working on is in the closed position. Then you must turn the engine until the other valve closes so you can adjust it. I would stop there as you don't have a valve problem. If the spark plug doesn't fire the engine won't start. If the timing is off from turning tge distributor the engine may not start and may die when it idles. You need go to auto store and get CHILTONS book so you can fix what you screwed up. and thats just the way it is !!
Intake 0.008 in
Exhaust 0.010 in
This is with the piston in the firing position, rockers off the cam lobe.
It is highly unlikely that the lash adjustment has anything to do with the cylinder not firing (dead cylinder). It is possible that having no lash would cause it, but that is not apt to occurr on it's own. It is possible that you now have the valves set ';too tight';.
I would suspect the real problem to be a burnt exhaust valve assuming of course there was spark at the wire, and the plug is good. Swap plugs, and wires with #3 cylinder. If miss is still on #4, and there is valve lash, do a compression test. I bet it will be low.How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 lire?
I see you also turned the distributor. Now you also need a timing lite to set the timing. You can't jjust guess at where it was .Did you check to see if spark plug was actually firing ?? You must turn the engine until the piston is at top dead center. This is when the valve you are working on is in the closed position. Then you must turn the engine until the other valve closes so you can adjust it. I would stop there as you don't have a valve problem. If the spark plug doesn't fire the engine won't start. If the timing is off from turning tge distributor the engine may not start and may die when it idles. You need go to auto store and get CHILTONS book so you can fix what you screwed up. and thats just the way it is !!
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