be monitoring?
http://www.lakbimanews.lk/columns/col8.h
The entire northern province should know that the pertol stations have been outfitted with defective pumping mechanisms and that when the ENGINEER (not Rajapaksa friend and relation) informed that a much better model was available (and probably could have been ordered through the same distributor as the country of origin was the same) that the Engineer was summarily dismissed and the Rajapaksa associates response was to try and besmirch a former Supreme Court Justice who had readily stood up against the Rajapaksa/Wickremesinghe/Kumaratunga remedial school of existence and unlawful government practices. Do not be remedial for Rajapaksa - Vote for Change. BTW Malinda consider yourself fired.
I would say that Rajapaksa does not believe that all communities are equal or that they deserve the best for if he did he would not allow his unscrupulous henchmen to be controlling these national projects at the huge loss and inconvenience to people in the North.
http://www.colombopage.com/archive_10/Ja
I would also stay off the stock market because these same crooks will be boosting more money since they have now recapitalized each of their own pet banks instead of paying back Gold Key depositors et al. 700K votes for change. 700K votes to implement checks and balances. 700K votes for not bilking the public at every turn. Matara I am asking you for 700K votes, Negombo, I am asking you for 700K votes, Kandy I am asking you for 700K votes, Kurunegala, I am asking you for 700K votes and Jaffna I am asking you for 700,000 votes because as a grown woman I can choose to eat one time a day but these children of yours will not be growing up smart and strong unless they have three meals, that you have every right to demand the ouster of presidential appointees that are utilizing funds to promote prostitution instead of education, that there is no reason that a legitimate leader would overnight remove a HSZ without first disarming the EDPD - why is Rajapaksa behaving in that manner because he is entrenched with the same diabolical forces that have actively participated in repressing ordinary citizen's rights and if we don't effect accountability, transparency and right of redress at this very juncture for whatever obtuse actions are carried out by Rajapaksa and Co. that we will certainly once again be in a position of politicians of the worst calibre again being able to press your communities into reactivating militant behaviour. What all your communities need to know is that as far as the Gold Key/Ceylinco/Seylan imbroglio was concerned that there were active measures taken on the behalf of our sovereign nation so that depositors had earmarked funds available for repayment and that Cecile/Lalith and co. could be brought to books - those funds were used to fatten bank balances instead of bringing rehabilitative compensation to not only the persons affected but also to IDP populations. These funds now are now rumored to be walking out the door in the hands of Rajapaksa associates and Rajapaksa is pretending that he does not know how to properly proceed in an order to have this woman returned to face charges. If you wonder what this has to do with you the reality is that the money that went into these banks is being used to make you take loans instead of reimbursing or repairing the damages that were done to you by the very same government. The reason that this repetetive behaviour occurs is because the government refuses to be accountable to the people and the President seems to think that he is free to do whatever he wishes and he is not. Rajapaksa is not a ruler he is just a very dishonest and unconstitutionally bound politician that needs to be shown the door. In the meantime there are reports coming from Saudi Arabia that the Sri Lanka embassy is encouraging domestics to break their contracts, resort to prostitution in a country where such offense is punishable by death. What is wrong with the Kumaratunge, Wickremesinghe, Rajapaksa equation when they all have certain power at Sri Lanka Airlines and at the embassy that they do not as promised return these domestics to Sri Lanka instead of having them camp under bridges and then be corraled by embassy personel to work a illegal profession that can certainly result in them being executed.
http://www.lakbimanews.lk/news/laknew4.h
Wasn't it the Rajapaksa administration that brought back all the criminal elements for ';election activity';?
http://www.srilankaguardian.org/2010/01/
with 5.2B in foreign exchanges and a new unqualified/no bid loan contract for 6.2B against a new monetary policy set by the CB none of these loans should be approved on a no bid basis. Since there is no emergency situation regarding these waterworks projects a second and third bid package would need to be considered.
http://www.lankabusinessonline.com/fullsMalinda isn't the inferior composite made for breaking attached to certain gas pumps that you were supposed to?
well yes
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
Hello, its me with my 1995 Ford Escort 1.9L Auto again! I have an update: I dont think its the Alternator (why the battery light came on once is beyond me. Could it be I have a Ford?) :) And it runs... but when I am in 'D' or 'R' or any drive gear, I need to put it in Neutral (or Park whe its not moving) and give it gas to avoid it stalling.
It runs with hesitation. I am not sure why. I took the air filter -out,- because it was dirty. No real improvement. Still acts the same.
I wonder if my Fuel Pump is dying. If it was, how could I drive on the highway at 70MPH and 75MPH? It seem to have less power, it downshifted twice to get up a slight incline (4th to 3rd, then back into 4th and then back to 3rd to get up a slight incline at 70MPH, and it dipped to 65MPH... before all this started, it could handle 70 and accelerate to 75MPH Easy. -Sounds- like Fuel Delivery. Hence my main question.)
I even wonder is new Plugs will help me. Could it be they are not woing a good job anymore? They were cleaned....
All this happened so suddenly. Ther guy at the store said my issue may be the Idle COntrol Valve. It costs $75 and takes 2 screws to remove, and i put the sensor back on it, and thats it. I wil know if that helps any later. I also bought the Fuel Filter, and wil have it on this weel (probably.)
So my main question is about the Fuel Pump, if they can suddenly begin their swan song and restrict fuel as well, and also what a Throttle Position Switch is.
PS: I will also read the Chilton bok when I have found it. I founf I already know a lot of the diagnosing, but they also oversimplify and leave stuff out when telling how to do a repair, and i cant even change my own fuel filter. I know how to look at the arow, but I have no jack and tools. Plus, you only look at those books when your car throws mystery problems at you, like mine. We did replace the Distributor Coil, and it des start now where it wouldnt before.. nt it hesittes and I topped of the coolant, addeds Head Gasket sealer because i want my radiator flushed to and it did get hot, and now am where I am now. Just drove on highway, it will die at thelight if I do not gas it in Neutral, othersie it runs under throttle....)
*** It also started before the Coil was on immediately after being lowered from the Tow Truck. I hope that helps. Then it didnt start again until the Distributor Coil, then it overheated (???.) Now it runs as it does. Thanks. PS2: Never left parking lot when overheated, but we did keep at it and it stalled out itslef due to heat. Cooled back sown and started fine. Hence my Head Gasket radiator stuff, as a Precaution. Not sure if that happened, seems like not. Wasnt for long enough...
Thanks, I appreciate the LEGITIMATE answers. Thank You.
Im a Customer Service Representative that loves cars, not an ASE Master Mechanic.....I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
I would worry about your fuel filter before your pump. Your filter is probably so filled with debris that the fuel flow is restricted, even totally cutting off. Your theory on an intermittently working pump is possible, but I would only consider it after the filter is replaced.I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
Could be a clogged fuel filter. An electric fuel pump will just quit on you with no warning. If you can, get a mechanic to check your fuel pressure.
Could be a misfire, sensor, or (fingers crossed) the tranny. If I were you I would have the plugs checked, and the IACV checked out first. Good luck
It runs with hesitation. I am not sure why. I took the air filter -out,- because it was dirty. No real improvement. Still acts the same.
I wonder if my Fuel Pump is dying. If it was, how could I drive on the highway at 70MPH and 75MPH? It seem to have less power, it downshifted twice to get up a slight incline (4th to 3rd, then back into 4th and then back to 3rd to get up a slight incline at 70MPH, and it dipped to 65MPH... before all this started, it could handle 70 and accelerate to 75MPH Easy. -Sounds- like Fuel Delivery. Hence my main question.)
I even wonder is new Plugs will help me. Could it be they are not woing a good job anymore? They were cleaned....
All this happened so suddenly. Ther guy at the store said my issue may be the Idle COntrol Valve. It costs $75 and takes 2 screws to remove, and i put the sensor back on it, and thats it. I wil know if that helps any later. I also bought the Fuel Filter, and wil have it on this weel (probably.)
So my main question is about the Fuel Pump, if they can suddenly begin their swan song and restrict fuel as well, and also what a Throttle Position Switch is.
PS: I will also read the Chilton bok when I have found it. I founf I already know a lot of the diagnosing, but they also oversimplify and leave stuff out when telling how to do a repair, and i cant even change my own fuel filter. I know how to look at the arow, but I have no jack and tools. Plus, you only look at those books when your car throws mystery problems at you, like mine. We did replace the Distributor Coil, and it des start now where it wouldnt before.. nt it hesittes and I topped of the coolant, addeds Head Gasket sealer because i want my radiator flushed to and it did get hot, and now am where I am now. Just drove on highway, it will die at thelight if I do not gas it in Neutral, othersie it runs under throttle....)
*** It also started before the Coil was on immediately after being lowered from the Tow Truck. I hope that helps. Then it didnt start again until the Distributor Coil, then it overheated (???.) Now it runs as it does. Thanks. PS2: Never left parking lot when overheated, but we did keep at it and it stalled out itslef due to heat. Cooled back sown and started fine. Hence my Head Gasket radiator stuff, as a Precaution. Not sure if that happened, seems like not. Wasnt for long enough...
Thanks, I appreciate the LEGITIMATE answers. Thank You.
Im a Customer Service Representative that loves cars, not an ASE Master Mechanic.....I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
I would worry about your fuel filter before your pump. Your filter is probably so filled with debris that the fuel flow is restricted, even totally cutting off. Your theory on an intermittently working pump is possible, but I would only consider it after the filter is replaced.I have a question, and it does appear it is not the Alternator. Can a Fuel Pump slowly Die?
Could be a clogged fuel filter. An electric fuel pump will just quit on you with no warning. If you can, get a mechanic to check your fuel pressure.
Could be a misfire, sensor, or (fingers crossed) the tranny. If I were you I would have the plugs checked, and the IACV checked out first. Good luck
Whats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
I replaced distributor, installed new plugs and wires, I am getting spark to plugs and fuel to carb--The car backfired then would not start it was a cold start I then replaced pick up coil, ignition module, cap, roter, plugs and wires. I marked distributor when I removed it and put it back in position. I have not checked timing, but it is getting fire from Dist. to plugs.--The car was running the day before, the next morning I went to start it to warm it up, it backfired in the carb and then would not start. How would the timing get off? I did not change any parts on the Dist. before the issue. What is the easiest method to get the #1 cylinder to top, motor is in car?--Firing order is 153624, timing is 6 degrees.
Whats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Well, I assume you got the wires on in the correct order (153624 clockwise rotation) and I also assum that the engine was not turned at all while the dist was out? but to be safe check...Number one is on the left bank of the engine from the driver seat. Remove number one plug and have a friend bump the key to spin the engine until compression is coming out of the plug hole. Turn the engine by hand now (socket on the crank bolt) until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the timing indicator. now check to see that the distributor rotor is pointing to where number one plug wire would be on the cap.
Now assuming that is all good, make sure all of the plugs are not gas soaked from getting flooded from all of the starting attempts.
Next I would look at the carb. I am not sure where you are living, but if it like here in thje northeast, the temps have dropped drastically recently, and the choke might be off, too tight. Take off the air cleaner cover, look at the choke flap, is it open or closed? if closed, hold it open and open the throttle, now release the throttle and then the choke flap, the flap should have stayed open as the fast idle cam should have dropped., now operate the throttle linkage, did the choke snap shut?
if if did good so far, stick your finger into the choke and see how springy the flap feels, if it is too tight the pull off will not be strong enough to pull it open enough while trying to start and you will flood.If the flap is too loose and not closing completely, you wont be rich enough to start in cold weather. now have somone crank the engine, as it starts, the pull off should open the choke flap slightly, too much and again too lean, not enough too rich, some pull offs are adjustable, some you have to tweek linkage. Same with the choke stat, some have screws holding them to the carb, most are riveted and will need to be drilled out to be able to adjust the choke stat.
I know this is a lot of info to try to digest, but there are so many things that it ';could be'; it is hard to capture it all here. I have 25 (+/-) year doing this, and at times I still get stumped.
Basically it boils down to fuel/air and spark, but there is also timing and compression and all of the fine tuning things like fuel air mixture too...good luck, I hope some or any of this helpsWhats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Have someone adjust your timing for you . Usually a mechanic will do it for free if you can get him to.
remove the spark plug #1 seal the hole with a piece of rack very tide to the hole, then give small action to the starter , and again, very small, the engine should move slowly, when that rack blows to the air, then you have the number one on the top. good luck.how to cope with a break up A deep purple duvet cover
Whats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Well, I assume you got the wires on in the correct order (153624 clockwise rotation) and I also assum that the engine was not turned at all while the dist was out? but to be safe check...Number one is on the left bank of the engine from the driver seat. Remove number one plug and have a friend bump the key to spin the engine until compression is coming out of the plug hole. Turn the engine by hand now (socket on the crank bolt) until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the timing indicator. now check to see that the distributor rotor is pointing to where number one plug wire would be on the cap.
Now assuming that is all good, make sure all of the plugs are not gas soaked from getting flooded from all of the starting attempts.
Next I would look at the carb. I am not sure where you are living, but if it like here in thje northeast, the temps have dropped drastically recently, and the choke might be off, too tight. Take off the air cleaner cover, look at the choke flap, is it open or closed? if closed, hold it open and open the throttle, now release the throttle and then the choke flap, the flap should have stayed open as the fast idle cam should have dropped., now operate the throttle linkage, did the choke snap shut?
if if did good so far, stick your finger into the choke and see how springy the flap feels, if it is too tight the pull off will not be strong enough to pull it open enough while trying to start and you will flood.If the flap is too loose and not closing completely, you wont be rich enough to start in cold weather. now have somone crank the engine, as it starts, the pull off should open the choke flap slightly, too much and again too lean, not enough too rich, some pull offs are adjustable, some you have to tweek linkage. Same with the choke stat, some have screws holding them to the carb, most are riveted and will need to be drilled out to be able to adjust the choke stat.
I know this is a lot of info to try to digest, but there are so many things that it ';could be'; it is hard to capture it all here. I have 25 (+/-) year doing this, and at times I still get stumped.
Basically it boils down to fuel/air and spark, but there is also timing and compression and all of the fine tuning things like fuel air mixture too...good luck, I hope some or any of this helpsWhats wrong with my 1978 Chevy Nova V6 4.1? It will not start?
Have someone adjust your timing for you . Usually a mechanic will do it for free if you can get him to.
remove the spark plug #1 seal the hole with a piece of rack very tide to the hole, then give small action to the starter , and again, very small, the engine should move slowly, when that rack blows to the air, then you have the number one on the top. good luck.
Excel help, need to update my product database?
so here is my situation.
I have a small business and I keep all my products on a database, about 1000-1200 products.
the distributor i order from sends out their excel sheet once a day with updated info {prices, descriptions, instock, etc.} but their data sheet has 20,000 + items on it.
if i have to buy software or an add-on that is fine, but here is my problem, i need to update my sheets by product name/UPC, NOT by row or column number.
lets say my upc is 123412341234, how would i have excel look at my sheet, and no matter what cell it is in, update the same row based off that upc. the column layout will never change, its the rows where the product is located that changes. so one day my upc 123412341234 might be row 5005, but next day it might be row 23, but it will always be COLUMN b, so how would i , or is there software that could recognize all of column B and say ';match upc in column B with upc in column C of distributor sheet'; and update all info in other columns of the same row accordingly';?
if this is confusing, try this.
product AAAA is 29.99, but distributor marked up priced to 39.99, so how do i update the price cell according to the product name?
thanksExcel help, need to update my product database?
Use the VLOOKUP function.
If column A on both sheets has the UPC numbers
Put this in B2 to look up the A2 UPC number within column A of the ';Distributor'; sheet and return the item from column B
=VLOOKUP($A2, 'Distributor'!A:G, 2, 0)
This will return column C for the lookup
=VLOOKUP($A2, 'Distributor'!A:G, 3, 0)
Excel: VLookup Function
http://www.techonthenet.com/excel/formul
I have a small business and I keep all my products on a database, about 1000-1200 products.
the distributor i order from sends out their excel sheet once a day with updated info {prices, descriptions, instock, etc.} but their data sheet has 20,000 + items on it.
if i have to buy software or an add-on that is fine, but here is my problem, i need to update my sheets by product name/UPC, NOT by row or column number.
lets say my upc is 123412341234, how would i have excel look at my sheet, and no matter what cell it is in, update the same row based off that upc. the column layout will never change, its the rows where the product is located that changes. so one day my upc 123412341234 might be row 5005, but next day it might be row 23, but it will always be COLUMN b, so how would i , or is there software that could recognize all of column B and say ';match upc in column B with upc in column C of distributor sheet'; and update all info in other columns of the same row accordingly';?
if this is confusing, try this.
product AAAA is 29.99, but distributor marked up priced to 39.99, so how do i update the price cell according to the product name?
thanksExcel help, need to update my product database?
Use the VLOOKUP function.
If column A on both sheets has the UPC numbers
Put this in B2 to look up the A2 UPC number within column A of the ';Distributor'; sheet and return the item from column B
=VLOOKUP($A2, 'Distributor'!A:G, 2, 0)
This will return column C for the lookup
=VLOOKUP($A2, 'Distributor'!A:G, 3, 0)
Excel: VLookup Function
http://www.techonthenet.com/excel/formul
Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
I know naturally its a pain to solve some problems on this car. But it cranks over just fine, just won't start. This is what I have tried (2.5L Sebring Conv, 2000)
I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.
Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)
I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.
I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.
I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.
I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)
SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.
I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.
I am not sure if this will help but heres a link to the all the wireing in the car.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/TrevHe
Just the ignition coil driver (PCM 11 was changed in year 1999-2000 car to PCM 4) Thats the only change I know of.
Hope this helps!
Tried almost everything and I am at a lost :(, Please help!';Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Sounds to me like YOU should be answering the questions of others. You've done a great deal to try and figure out the problem.
Try www.cartalk.com
Their forum is the best when stuff gets this complicated.Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Hook it up and scan it. A blk/rd wire is the key. Both spark and fuel drivers are PCM located, if the valve timing and grounds and power are present there may be something wrong with the cam, crank timing. A scanner is used first and mechanical inspections next.
I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.
Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)
I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.
I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.
I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.
I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)
SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.
I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.
I am not sure if this will help but heres a link to the all the wireing in the car.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/TrevHe
Just the ignition coil driver (PCM 11 was changed in year 1999-2000 car to PCM 4) Thats the only change I know of.
Hope this helps!
Tried almost everything and I am at a lost :(, Please help!';Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Sounds to me like YOU should be answering the questions of others. You've done a great deal to try and figure out the problem.
Try www.cartalk.com
Their forum is the best when stuff gets this complicated.Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Hook it up and scan it. A blk/rd wire is the key. Both spark and fuel drivers are PCM located, if the valve timing and grounds and power are present there may be something wrong with the cam, crank timing. A scanner is used first and mechanical inspections next.
Excel help for my business product management.!?
so here is my situation.
my small business keeps all my products on a database, about 1000-1200 products.
the distributor i order from sends out their excel sheet/product list once a day or more with updated info {prices, descriptions, instock, etc.} but their data sheet has 20,000 + items on it, which is way more then i have.
if i have to buy software or an add-on that is fine, just link or tell the general name of what i am looking for, but here is my problem, i need to update my sheets by product name/UPC, NOT by row or column number.
lets say my upc is 123412341234, how would i have excel look at my sheet, and no matter what cell it is in, update the same row based off that upc. the column layout will never change, its the rows where the product is located that changes. so one day my upc 123412341234 might be row 5005, but next day it might be row 23, but it will always be COLUMN b, so how would i , or is there software that could recognize all of column B and say ';match upc in column B with upc in column C of distributor sheet'; and update all info in other columns of the same row accordingly';?
if this is confusing, try this.
product AAAA is 29.99, but distributor marked up priced to 39.99, so how do i update the price cell according to the product name?
thanksExcel help for my business product management.!?
As I see it you have a couple options, you can use inventory management software such as netsuite or fishbowl for quickbooks. The other decent option is to use access or other database software that easily let's you search and sort by content.Excel help for my business product management.!?
Hire a really good guy with Excel, a really really good guy. I'm so confused I get the idea but can't practically connect it visually. I'm having problems of my own, and I'm Excel certified by Microsoft.
my small business keeps all my products on a database, about 1000-1200 products.
the distributor i order from sends out their excel sheet/product list once a day or more with updated info {prices, descriptions, instock, etc.} but their data sheet has 20,000 + items on it, which is way more then i have.
if i have to buy software or an add-on that is fine, just link or tell the general name of what i am looking for, but here is my problem, i need to update my sheets by product name/UPC, NOT by row or column number.
lets say my upc is 123412341234, how would i have excel look at my sheet, and no matter what cell it is in, update the same row based off that upc. the column layout will never change, its the rows where the product is located that changes. so one day my upc 123412341234 might be row 5005, but next day it might be row 23, but it will always be COLUMN b, so how would i , or is there software that could recognize all of column B and say ';match upc in column B with upc in column C of distributor sheet'; and update all info in other columns of the same row accordingly';?
if this is confusing, try this.
product AAAA is 29.99, but distributor marked up priced to 39.99, so how do i update the price cell according to the product name?
thanksExcel help for my business product management.!?
As I see it you have a couple options, you can use inventory management software such as netsuite or fishbowl for quickbooks. The other decent option is to use access or other database software that easily let's you search and sort by content.Excel help for my business product management.!?
Hire a really good guy with Excel, a really really good guy. I'm so confused I get the idea but can't practically connect it visually. I'm having problems of my own, and I'm Excel certified by Microsoft.
Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
i have found what will be my first car (in a junkyard now). it needs floor pans, some interior work, bondo, blocking, and paint but for the most part, it is worth the money. everything is straight and it only has surface rust. it also has the one year only 1300cc flat 4 VW engine. the great thing about these old VWs is that parts are abundant and cheap (those floor pans are only $220 and bolt in).
my question is, how do i get a 43 year old car, that sat for half its life, to run again. i already know that i am replacing and gaping plugs, raplacing gas, changing the motor oil, getting a new oil filter and cleaning out the carb (maybe a new distributor cap is also a good idea). but will i also need to replace fuel lines or other odds and ends like that? and will i also have to tear the engine down and rebuild it? i havent yet checked if the crank pulley turns or not. this car also has about 56,000 miles and change on the speedo.
thanks for any information.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
Oh, yes, you have to replace ALL the lines, just to be careful. An engine that sat for 20+ years? Yes, definitely tear down and rebuilt. Check all the suspension parts, and so on. old Beetles are simple, air cooled and all that, so at least you have no belts and hoses (much) to worry about. Count yourself lucky.
Consult a VW shop and maybe pay them $100-$150 to help you take a hard look at it.
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Kasey C, PC guru since Apple II days
C program run. C program crash. C programmer quit.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
you dont have to desmantle the engine normally if the engine has all its parts on exaust manifolds ,filters and spark plugs then dust and sand cant get in easy if ..the engine stayed all this time open then sand gets in it will ruin it when u start it..if not .. just check the oil also to see how much dirt it has in the engine..
just change all the parts (plugs,oil etc)... but first before you waste any money see if the crank pulley moves ....
i started one after 15 years all i did was put some gas in. but replace all hoses and the gas tank is gonna be full of rust just get a new one. the old fuel pump will need rebuilt due to the fiber gasket innards will shred under load they will be dry and hard. rebuild the brake system and you should be good from there
my question is, how do i get a 43 year old car, that sat for half its life, to run again. i already know that i am replacing and gaping plugs, raplacing gas, changing the motor oil, getting a new oil filter and cleaning out the carb (maybe a new distributor cap is also a good idea). but will i also need to replace fuel lines or other odds and ends like that? and will i also have to tear the engine down and rebuild it? i havent yet checked if the crank pulley turns or not. this car also has about 56,000 miles and change on the speedo.
thanks for any information.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
Oh, yes, you have to replace ALL the lines, just to be careful. An engine that sat for 20+ years? Yes, definitely tear down and rebuilt. Check all the suspension parts, and so on. old Beetles are simple, air cooled and all that, so at least you have no belts and hoses (much) to worry about. Count yourself lucky.
Consult a VW shop and maybe pay them $100-$150 to help you take a hard look at it.
---
Kasey C, PC guru since Apple II days
C program run. C program crash. C programmer quit.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
you dont have to desmantle the engine normally if the engine has all its parts on exaust manifolds ,filters and spark plugs then dust and sand cant get in easy if ..the engine stayed all this time open then sand gets in it will ruin it when u start it..if not .. just check the oil also to see how much dirt it has in the engine..
just change all the parts (plugs,oil etc)... but first before you waste any money see if the crank pulley moves ....
i started one after 15 years all i did was put some gas in. but replace all hoses and the gas tank is gonna be full of rust just get a new one. the old fuel pump will need rebuilt due to the fiber gasket innards will shred under load they will be dry and hard. rebuild the brake system and you should be good from there
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