I have a 98 Honda Civic. I used to be able to floor the gas and my car would launch away, but I noticed today that won't happen anymore. I used to feel pressure from the gas pedal that would resist to hard of an acceleration, but the gas seems ';softer'; somehow. And when I floor it, it's as if I were just accelerating normally. I swear, the tachometer hardly increases at all.
This might be relevant: a couple weeks ago, my car died on me because the distributor was bad, so I got a new one. I think it drove fine after that. A couple days ago, I got an oil change and (I think they called it) a transmission flush. I didn't notice any difference after that, but I was also babying my car and wasn't pushing it performance-wise, so it could have been affected right away.
I want to place blame on the mechanic, but again, I didn't notice anything right away and I'd like to know just what the heck would cause this problem.How come when I floor the gas pedal my car won't accelerate like it used to?
Well your question has many ';what if'; factors. The one that jumps at me is the trans service. How many miles does you're car have on it and when was the last time the trans was serviced? If it has been a long time or your car has high mileage what could be, and I mean could, is that the new transmission fluid is to clean. It happens on cars with high mileage or fluid that's not been changed enough. Inside the trans are seals that wear with age the old fluid was dirt and did not flow as well, you put in clean fluid and now the trans has a little internal leak that keeps the pressure low thus your car feels slow.How come when I floor the gas pedal my car won't accelerate like it used to?
Some transmissions do not like a Flush because if can ruin seals both internal and external.
Another problem with a flush is that the filter does not get changed or cleaned. But generally the symptoms of failure are slippage and a racing motor (which is not what seems to be the problem here).
Now I am talking about an automatic.
But you could have a failing throttle cable/linkage. So check that out before you jump the mechanic.
You could also have gotten a tank of inferior gas.
Also check out the other things too, like the fuel filter,air filter, spark plugs and wires.
If you used to accelerate suddenly or peel out a lot, then it's likely that you've worn out your clutch disc faster than usual.
Think of sandpaper pressing against steel when you release your clutch to engage and create the friction needed to spin your axle and wheels. Now it's no longer sandpaper but more just paper.
Rather than gripping tightly against your flywheel as you accelerate, it's sliding against your flywheel and no longer allowing you to feel the initial full torque.
I changed my own clutch disc and pressure plate ($100 from your local auto parts store) for my '95 after about 190k miles. I think my '98 is also nearing that same stage.
You may need to consider changing your clutch disc and pressure plate within the next serveral thousand miles or when your shifter begins to feel difficult to get into gear.
Good luck!
Monday, June 6, 2011
How much Horsepower will i have?
If i take my 302 and add a true roller timing kit, a .512 lift hydraulic cam, an aluminum dual quad high rise intake with two edelbrock 600cfm carbs, roller rocker arms, shaved, ported and polished heads, bored .50 over, long tube headers, a racing radiator with a 6 blade fan, roller lifters, aftermarket valve springs, MSD 6 series ignition box, 8.5 mm wires, MSD distributor, new bearings, edelbrock victor series oil pump and an edelbrock victor series water pump, roughly how much horsepower will i be putting out? what if i change the cam to .548 lift?
oh and dont be too harsh cause there's no way i could ever come up with the money to do this so don't worry!How much Horsepower will i have?
leave the .512 cam and take the bore down to .040 over and add a 200 shot of nitrous and you will be close to 650-800hp depending on trans and suspension workHow much Horsepower will i have?
Your question is difficult to answer because you only list the cams lift. There's duration, intake centerline, overlap and many other things to consider. What is your compression ratio? Also, skip the 6-blade and run an electric.
oh and dont be too harsh cause there's no way i could ever come up with the money to do this so don't worry!How much Horsepower will i have?
leave the .512 cam and take the bore down to .040 over and add a 200 shot of nitrous and you will be close to 650-800hp depending on trans and suspension workHow much Horsepower will i have?
Your question is difficult to answer because you only list the cams lift. There's duration, intake centerline, overlap and many other things to consider. What is your compression ratio? Also, skip the 6-blade and run an electric.
Aren't we already paying for the uninsured?
If we require insurance and have to pay for it for them, then aren't we also additional adding the admin cost and profits of the private insurance companies? IF you say they can afford the insurance then they are certainly are not able to stiff the hospital.
If the uninsured are already paying most of their own bills with the exception of catastrophic care, then aren't we going to lose those revenues from the heath care system.
If someone has insurance and can go to the local clinic then don't they go there to lower the bill by 90%. IF they don't care about the cost then that means they won't have the ability to pay or they are illegal. No change there, except now you have the profit company in the loop.
Okay you are angry, but don't you realize that your insurance cost will go up as a result. We are already paying all of the costs that we will pay anyways, but now you want to put a for profit distributor in the equation.
Please tell me how that creates savings?Aren't we already paying for the uninsured?
Please don't talk sense on YA..it hurts peoples' brains to think.Aren't we already paying for the uninsured?
And that us why the Public Option has to be in the equation, gives the benefits of lower cost at the primary care level and less costs at the ER level, and the benefits of increasing the size and range of the risk pool, without the for profit distributor in the equation.
yes its called medicaid
The public option is insurance that is offered by the government to people ,at an affordable rate, who don't have insurance. It will not make insurance rates go up. Instead it will make insurance rates go down. It is called competition. The insurance companies will be forced to start offering programs and rates comparable to what the government is offering. Without the public option they have no incentive to do anything.
My current situation is that I have had a heart attack and I am covered by insurance. However, if I need an operation, let's say a heart bypass, what stops my insurance company from denying that operation? What do I do then? Do I not get the operation or do I hock my house and everything I own? If I do the latter then I am homeless, elderly and destitute. At this time in my life I am not yet eligible for Medicare. So, you tell me who pays?
Yes we are. And it's a lousy system. That's why we need a health care plan that all will participate in.
Only after one or a family has liquidated most or all of their assets.
half of all bankruptcies are due to medical bills and half of those had medical insurance that ran out.
If the uninsured are already paying most of their own bills with the exception of catastrophic care, then aren't we going to lose those revenues from the heath care system.
If someone has insurance and can go to the local clinic then don't they go there to lower the bill by 90%. IF they don't care about the cost then that means they won't have the ability to pay or they are illegal. No change there, except now you have the profit company in the loop.
Okay you are angry, but don't you realize that your insurance cost will go up as a result. We are already paying all of the costs that we will pay anyways, but now you want to put a for profit distributor in the equation.
Please tell me how that creates savings?Aren't we already paying for the uninsured?
Please don't talk sense on YA..it hurts peoples' brains to think.Aren't we already paying for the uninsured?
And that us why the Public Option has to be in the equation, gives the benefits of lower cost at the primary care level and less costs at the ER level, and the benefits of increasing the size and range of the risk pool, without the for profit distributor in the equation.
yes its called medicaid
The public option is insurance that is offered by the government to people ,at an affordable rate, who don't have insurance. It will not make insurance rates go up. Instead it will make insurance rates go down. It is called competition. The insurance companies will be forced to start offering programs and rates comparable to what the government is offering. Without the public option they have no incentive to do anything.
My current situation is that I have had a heart attack and I am covered by insurance. However, if I need an operation, let's say a heart bypass, what stops my insurance company from denying that operation? What do I do then? Do I not get the operation or do I hock my house and everything I own? If I do the latter then I am homeless, elderly and destitute. At this time in my life I am not yet eligible for Medicare. So, you tell me who pays?
Yes we are. And it's a lousy system. That's why we need a health care plan that all will participate in.
Only after one or a family has liquidated most or all of their assets.
half of all bankruptcies are due to medical bills and half of those had medical insurance that ran out.
Car oil leak repair trouble?
My car (1993 Toyota camry), has slightly oil leak. I went to Toyota dealer for fix. after check, I was told there are 3 leaks, distributor O-ring, Valve seal and oil pan gasket. the main leak is from oil pan. so I decide to fix oil pan gasket, cost 300$. plus wheel adjust, change brakes, total $500. I put car in in the morning, will pick up after work. but at afternoon, I was told they fixed the gasket, after driving test there is still leak, they have redo the work. I have to wait to next day.
Next day, when I pick up car, Service guy told me they found another leak, main seal, to fix it costing 1000$. I suspicious they try to make me spend more money, and I did not see much oil on the bottom. So I said I can afford that cost. I will keep eye on it.
Just I drive out of the shop, on the way I found smoke came out under hood, I drove back, service guy told me it was oil drip on exhaust cause the smoke. I said OK, I'll keep eye on it.
In the following weekend, my wife and I could still sense the burning smell. On Monday I drive to the shop, service guy lift car in air to make sure that's oil burn. To my surprise, there is oil collected under the car, He told me it's main seal leak. I said I never has this problem before, how come after your repair my gasket, then there is this problem out standing? He said, '; you mean to fix gasket, cause this leak? No, they are not related, main seal is up up on top. the repair made the leak worse? It's possible, we can give you $300 credit, so you have to pay $700 to fix the main seal leak. ';
I have no experience how to deal with this case, I said I could pay another $200 to fix main seal leak. He would take it. I want to talk to their manager. I want to hear from your suggestion, what should I do?
Apparently, they made my car a new problem but they won't admit.Car oil leak repair trouble?
Check to see if they are a member of the BBB. If they are get there BBB # and turn them in. If not call the states attorney generals office and go from there. Some red tape But, you do want to be vindicatedCar oil leak repair trouble?
The main seal leak is not related to their repair, What they did was not realize you also had a main seal leak until the oilpan was off. I think their offer is very fair and they are trying to resolve the problem in a fair way with the $300 credit. The seal they are talking about is around the rear of the crankshaft, and involves a lot more than just taking off the oil pan. If you don't fix it, engine could catch fire or you'll get nauseated from the oil fumes . Sometimes the truth is hard, but it's the truth.
Unfortunately with oil leaks, once you repair one, another springs a leak. Reason being: when all seals are in tact and not leaking, there is pressure within the system. Once you get a leak in an older (more than 5-10 years old) car and you have a gasket, seal or O-ring replaced, the pressure, now added back to the system, can blow out another gasket, seal or O-Ring. The dollars spent to completely repair this type of aggravation can get costly and usually costs more than the vehicle is worth. When the 'main seal' has gone, it is time to start considering buying another vehicle.
In your above case, it sounds like the garage is trying to make money off of you - nickel and dime turns into thousands in the long run. We'll just say they are probably giving you half truths. Keep pestering the manager if you want to work done
If you are concerned about trading in a vehicle with an oil leak and feel it would reduce the value - here's a little trick - and only to use when you bring it to trade in - Marvel Mystery Oil - 1 teaspoon (and no more)directly into your oil (this will 'expand' gaskets/seals just enough) - drive the car to a self wash car wash - clean the engine and drive right to the dealer - I know, sneaky, but then again you are the one trying to get rid of a headache.
Next day, when I pick up car, Service guy told me they found another leak, main seal, to fix it costing 1000$. I suspicious they try to make me spend more money, and I did not see much oil on the bottom. So I said I can afford that cost. I will keep eye on it.
Just I drive out of the shop, on the way I found smoke came out under hood, I drove back, service guy told me it was oil drip on exhaust cause the smoke. I said OK, I'll keep eye on it.
In the following weekend, my wife and I could still sense the burning smell. On Monday I drive to the shop, service guy lift car in air to make sure that's oil burn. To my surprise, there is oil collected under the car, He told me it's main seal leak. I said I never has this problem before, how come after your repair my gasket, then there is this problem out standing? He said, '; you mean to fix gasket, cause this leak? No, they are not related, main seal is up up on top. the repair made the leak worse? It's possible, we can give you $300 credit, so you have to pay $700 to fix the main seal leak. ';
I have no experience how to deal with this case, I said I could pay another $200 to fix main seal leak. He would take it. I want to talk to their manager. I want to hear from your suggestion, what should I do?
Apparently, they made my car a new problem but they won't admit.Car oil leak repair trouble?
Check to see if they are a member of the BBB. If they are get there BBB # and turn them in. If not call the states attorney generals office and go from there. Some red tape But, you do want to be vindicatedCar oil leak repair trouble?
The main seal leak is not related to their repair, What they did was not realize you also had a main seal leak until the oilpan was off. I think their offer is very fair and they are trying to resolve the problem in a fair way with the $300 credit. The seal they are talking about is around the rear of the crankshaft, and involves a lot more than just taking off the oil pan. If you don't fix it, engine could catch fire or you'll get nauseated from the oil fumes . Sometimes the truth is hard, but it's the truth.
Unfortunately with oil leaks, once you repair one, another springs a leak. Reason being: when all seals are in tact and not leaking, there is pressure within the system. Once you get a leak in an older (more than 5-10 years old) car and you have a gasket, seal or O-ring replaced, the pressure, now added back to the system, can blow out another gasket, seal or O-Ring. The dollars spent to completely repair this type of aggravation can get costly and usually costs more than the vehicle is worth. When the 'main seal' has gone, it is time to start considering buying another vehicle.
In your above case, it sounds like the garage is trying to make money off of you - nickel and dime turns into thousands in the long run. We'll just say they are probably giving you half truths. Keep pestering the manager if you want to work done
If you are concerned about trading in a vehicle with an oil leak and feel it would reduce the value - here's a little trick - and only to use when you bring it to trade in - Marvel Mystery Oil - 1 teaspoon (and no more)directly into your oil (this will 'expand' gaskets/seals just enough) - drive the car to a self wash car wash - clean the engine and drive right to the dealer - I know, sneaky, but then again you are the one trying to get rid of a headache.
How to find out what is my car problems is without removing pieces?
hi
i pluged in the OBD11 to check my car
it come up with 02 sensor circuit what it means oxigen sensor cat need to be change
well i did change them but now does not start
engine rotates but it just does not start,(it is a bmw 323i1 1998 6 cilynders) the cat did NOT smell like bad like rotten egg,so i belive the cat is not plugged,how can i find out what the problem is without removing starter-akternator-distributor?
is there any way to know whats is wrong? i pluged in again the obd11 and does not show anything but 02 sensor which i replaced alreadyHow to find out what is my car problems is without removing pieces?
Plug in the OBD 12 then if that doent work try the HSC55.scratching your head also works sometimes........What in heavans name are you talking about .Go to a BMW service centre they will identify the problem in 20 mins.How to find out what is my car problems is without removing pieces?
WHEN YOU PLUG IN THE OBD II , IT WILL ONLY GIVE YOU A CODE. SINCE YOU DID NOT STATE WHAT KIND OF CODE IT IS, I CANNOT HELP YOU. WHEN YOU HAVE A OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT PROBLEM, IT DOES NOT MEAN THE SENSOR IS BAD. IT COULD BE A VACCUM LEAK, NO POWER OR GROUND CIRCUIT TO THE SENSOR,LEAK FUEL INJECTORS, ENGINE MECHANICAL PROBLEM , FUEL SYSTEM MALFUNCTION,OR OTHER ENGINE SENSOR MALFUNCTION. SINCE YOUR ENGINE DOES NOT START, YOU HAVE ANOTHER DIFFERENT PROBLEM. THIS REQUIRE A SCAN TOOL THAT SHOW ENGINE DATA BESIDE THE ENGINE CODE, IT WILL HAVE VOLTMETER AND A LABSCOPE TO TEST SENSORS AND CIRCUIT. THIS TOOL COST ABOUT 6000.00 US. DOLLARSfind rental listings give to atheist
i pluged in the OBD11 to check my car
it come up with 02 sensor circuit what it means oxigen sensor cat need to be change
well i did change them but now does not start
engine rotates but it just does not start,(it is a bmw 323i1 1998 6 cilynders) the cat did NOT smell like bad like rotten egg,so i belive the cat is not plugged,how can i find out what the problem is without removing starter-akternator-distributor?
is there any way to know whats is wrong? i pluged in again the obd11 and does not show anything but 02 sensor which i replaced alreadyHow to find out what is my car problems is without removing pieces?
Plug in the OBD 12 then if that doent work try the HSC55.scratching your head also works sometimes........What in heavans name are you talking about .Go to a BMW service centre they will identify the problem in 20 mins.How to find out what is my car problems is without removing pieces?
WHEN YOU PLUG IN THE OBD II , IT WILL ONLY GIVE YOU A CODE. SINCE YOU DID NOT STATE WHAT KIND OF CODE IT IS, I CANNOT HELP YOU. WHEN YOU HAVE A OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT PROBLEM, IT DOES NOT MEAN THE SENSOR IS BAD. IT COULD BE A VACCUM LEAK, NO POWER OR GROUND CIRCUIT TO THE SENSOR,LEAK FUEL INJECTORS, ENGINE MECHANICAL PROBLEM , FUEL SYSTEM MALFUNCTION,OR OTHER ENGINE SENSOR MALFUNCTION. SINCE YOUR ENGINE DOES NOT START, YOU HAVE ANOTHER DIFFERENT PROBLEM. THIS REQUIRE A SCAN TOOL THAT SHOW ENGINE DATA BESIDE THE ENGINE CODE, IT WILL HAVE VOLTMETER AND A LABSCOPE TO TEST SENSORS AND CIRCUIT. THIS TOOL COST ABOUT 6000.00 US. DOLLARS
How to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?
I just bought a 1990 ford f150 2 days ago. its in very nice condition, been running well. i bought it from a friend so i know its a great truck no doubt. heres the thing. yesterday i washed the truck exterior then some under the hood. after that i started it just fine and parked it. later on i drove it home for 20 miles. it did cut off one time and was a little hard to get back going. it felt like it had water in the cap and rotor. it finally started up and kept running. it was so cold out and i was ready to leave. this morning i started the truck up to let it run and warm the heater. after 10 minutes i heard it shut off. after i got my boots on and all ready to leave for work. i restarted the truck with a small hesitation. i drove it less than a 1/4 mile and it shut off and tried all day and still hasnt started.
i checked the cap and rotor.....i was thinking it had water from washing day before. looked in and all was dry. i replaced the cap and rotor anyways. then also changed 8 spark plugs, checked for firing and all seems good. checked fire at both ends of coil wire, rotor end and coil. checked fire at #1 spark plug, very good. rotor is spinning, so distributor is not broke. i then knew it was firing good. so then wondered about fuel.....it has a full tank of fuel. i never could hear a fuel pump........i looked for a fuel pump on the frame and only fuel filter there, so im thinking the fuel pump is in the fuel tank..? i opened fuel pressure bleed on engine and no fuel there, either with key on and cranking engine. i removed hose off fuel filter and only a few drops of gas fell out. had friend turn key on to see if fuel pumped out and still no fuel, so had friend crank engine and still no gas................so, how do i know problem is with fuel pump? it may be electrical/ relay/ solenoid? i havent checked wiring to fuel pump yet.......is fuel pump in the tank and how to change? 1990 f150, 5.0 fuel injected auto, all info is greatly appreciatedHow to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?
the pump is in the tank and the tank has to be dropped to change it...dont worry its not a hard job its fairly simple.. check your fuses and relays under the hood and in the cab as well for anything involving fuel... if all is well with no blown fuses or relays id say its probably a fuel pump sometimes they work well then go on kicks where they work every now and again towards the end of their life.... you can find anything you need to know roughly about taking the truck apart in a Haynes manual... you can get the one for your truck at autozone or onlineHow to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?
try resetting the inertia switch first, it's in the owners manual.. then check for voltage at the pump, if you have voltage, put no action, replace it..
i checked the cap and rotor.....i was thinking it had water from washing day before. looked in and all was dry. i replaced the cap and rotor anyways. then also changed 8 spark plugs, checked for firing and all seems good. checked fire at both ends of coil wire, rotor end and coil. checked fire at #1 spark plug, very good. rotor is spinning, so distributor is not broke. i then knew it was firing good. so then wondered about fuel.....it has a full tank of fuel. i never could hear a fuel pump........i looked for a fuel pump on the frame and only fuel filter there, so im thinking the fuel pump is in the fuel tank..? i opened fuel pressure bleed on engine and no fuel there, either with key on and cranking engine. i removed hose off fuel filter and only a few drops of gas fell out. had friend turn key on to see if fuel pumped out and still no fuel, so had friend crank engine and still no gas................so, how do i know problem is with fuel pump? it may be electrical/ relay/ solenoid? i havent checked wiring to fuel pump yet.......is fuel pump in the tank and how to change? 1990 f150, 5.0 fuel injected auto, all info is greatly appreciatedHow to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?
the pump is in the tank and the tank has to be dropped to change it...dont worry its not a hard job its fairly simple.. check your fuses and relays under the hood and in the cab as well for anything involving fuel... if all is well with no blown fuses or relays id say its probably a fuel pump sometimes they work well then go on kicks where they work every now and again towards the end of their life.... you can find anything you need to know roughly about taking the truck apart in a Haynes manual... you can get the one for your truck at autozone or onlineHow to properly troubleshoot to find correct problem?
try resetting the inertia switch first, it's in the owners manual.. then check for voltage at the pump, if you have voltage, put no action, replace it..
What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
Is there any way to disable the spell checker while you're writing answers? I need it once in a while, but usually it's just ignorant and distracting. ';Camaro';, (spell check just popped on, lol) for example. I know how to spell ';Camaro';. There's no ';e'; in ';Camaro';. I use ';Camaro'; in many of my answers. And every time I do, the spell check tells me to change it to ';Camry';. I don't THINK so.
And yet, the last answer I gave had the word ';munged'; in it. As in ';My distributor cap was all munged up.';
Is that even a word? But not a peep out of spell check. Now don't you think ';Camaro'; or ';Monza'; (another one I use sometimes) are used in conversation more than ';munged';?
I don't know why this bothers me. It just does. It even made me change ';spellcheck'; to ';spell check';.
Oops! it looks like I have 8 misspelling(s) in this question. lol Oops, now that's nine.What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
I just ignore Yahoo! Spell check and only pay attention to the one in Firefox, which I can train myself (right-click a flagged word, click ';Add to Dictionary';).What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
It ain't a perfect world, and spell checkers are not 100% reliable.
If you want to avoid typing your answers in YA type them in WORD, then simply copy and paste your answers to YA.
Its just this stupid thing to help the computer think it is smart when realy those of us who know what were are doing are the ones who get most annoyed
Ya I wish.Try typing in a proper name or a web site.Ducati and airtech-streamlining.com drives the machine into overdrive
And yet, the last answer I gave had the word ';munged'; in it. As in ';My distributor cap was all munged up.';
Is that even a word? But not a peep out of spell check. Now don't you think ';Camaro'; or ';Monza'; (another one I use sometimes) are used in conversation more than ';munged';?
I don't know why this bothers me. It just does. It even made me change ';spellcheck'; to ';spell check';.
Oops! it looks like I have 8 misspelling(s) in this question. lol Oops, now that's nine.What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
I just ignore Yahoo! Spell check and only pay attention to the one in Firefox, which I can train myself (right-click a flagged word, click ';Add to Dictionary';).What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
It ain't a perfect world, and spell checkers are not 100% reliable.
If you want to avoid typing your answers in YA type them in WORD, then simply copy and paste your answers to YA.
Its just this stupid thing to help the computer think it is smart when realy those of us who know what were are doing are the ones who get most annoyed
Ya I wish.Try typing in a proper name or a web site.Ducati and airtech-streamlining.com drives the machine into overdrive
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